A new member with a first time Norton project

Hey Guys,

A member here L.A.B. that was on another forum turned me on to the site for some additional info. I really enjoyed reading and learning through the several post and decided to join up, and share my latest project with you guys. Since this is my first Norton project, I could also use some pointers or suggestions as well if you guys see anything obvious.

The bike is a '70 Norton Commando Roadster that was brought over to the US by a US soldier in the military. The bike sat for a very long time and unfortunately the engine was seized when I received it. I purchased the bike second hand from his son that had begun to take the bike apart unfortunately. Thank God he didn't get much further than the foot pegs and exhaust! Other than that the bike was in very good condition for its age compared to most of the other projects that I have started.

Here is a shot of the bike the day I brought it home. Like most of you guys I have wanted one of these forever... Needless to say I was thrilled and couldn't wait to surprise my old man with my new project.




Since then the bike has completely been stripped down and the rebuild process has begun. I went with black powder coat on the frame, swing arm, battery box, and other parts that were originally black. The triple trees were powder coated a Bengal silver that seemed to resemble the original color pretty well. Let it be said this will not be a "points restoration". This bike is going to built to be ridden so I'm putting more emphasis on longevity than originality.




The paint or gel coat on the tank and side covers is in really good shape and will be staying as is. I may replace the decals with repops but I haven't decided yet. The tank decals are ok, but the side covers are pretty ratty. You can barely make out "roadster". The tank will be lined since its fiberglass, and from what I have read the Hirsh kit seems to be the best one so far. Please post up if you have any suggestions.

All other aluminum and chrome just needed some cleaning and polishing. Some areas needed some 250 wet sanding due to scratches before hitting it with the buffing wheel but most just needed a quick 500 then 1000 wet sand and it was ready to go. I noticed where some others had polished the connecting rods so I decided to do the same.









The engine has been torn down and the Crank (to be turned down 10 and sludge trap cleaning), cam (polished lobes), lifters (resurfacing), and cylinders (bored 20 over and new pistons and rings) were sent to Memphis Motor Works to let Leo Goff perform some of his magic. The parts came back packaged beautifully and the work was absolutely first class. I typically try to perform most work myself and I'm hesitant to let anyone else work on anything since I feel that they will never take it to the level and detail that I would. Leo Goff did an outstanding job and the parts look like jewelery. If I had the money I would let him build the entire thing.







The cylinder head is getting new valve seats, valve's ground, and seats cut at a local speed shop that has been a great resource for any type of motorcycle machining. He had an Ariel Square Four being bored out when I dropped off the Norton head.

The other engine parts such as new superblends, trans bearings, trans parts and a main 4th gear have come from Carl Hokanson (racingnorton on ebay) and has been a great resource and knowledge base for a first time Norton guy like me.



The tires have been ordered and are AVON AM26's 90/90-19 on the front and 100/90-19 on the rear based on some of the threads on this site.

All other hardware has been glass bead blasted, documented, and is at a local plater called Surtronics being plated. I need to stop back by to decide whether I want to go with Zinc or Cadmium. Cadmium would probably be the most original but if the Zinc will hold up better and be a little bit more shiny I may go that route. Regardless, all of it will be baked to restore any lost hardness by the plating process.

I'll post up more as I go.

Regards,

Byrd

Very nice and an unusual model. Last used in the UK in 1971.

Welcome to the forum by the way. Keep on posting !

Hi Bryd

Welcome aboard
Your project looks to be seriously first class.
With projects like yours I gotta think the number of good running Nortons in this world are on the increase.
Looking forward to more posts as she goes together.

Are you keeping Amals and original ignition?
I understand the urge of many to keep original but I really appreciate the benefits of my Mikuni carb and Pazon ignition.
First kick starter.

Bob

You have done some great work and made some wise choices. Real nice bike to start with.
Some words on the FG gas tank.
Yes Hirsh liner kit is good but like all liners that are sloshed in it is only as good as it's weakest coverage. The liner itself will not fail but if one thin spot is left where you can't spot it the whole job will fail within two years time. A number of us here will say the same.
If you love that tank you will need to cut it open ,grind it clean, build a new ledge of fiber glass to glue the bottom back on with,Than use a Caswell kit (epoxy base) and hand paint on the liner keeping it thin enough to not get brittle (if it gets too thick it will crack with use) it's a lot of work and your building a rider your time is worth something.
So I have to say, buy an alloy tank there are two good people making them near you. Your mileage may vary...And you will find a story to met any expectation you like but melted glass will be in your future if you slosh the tank. JMO

Looks great so far. Kepp posting progress pictures.

Jean

Holy Cow, you got one in good shape and are doing a first class job. What did it say on the ID plate? Mine was about like that when I got it in 72 (Apr 69 ID) but I left it in a barn and all the chrome is about gone and the aluminum pretty pitted. I have the aluminum cleaned up, but the chrome is another issue. I plated a lot of the small parts with the Caswell Copy Chrome (blue tinted nickel) and it looks like chorme. I wasn't going for an original look, more lasting like you, but I have not gotten into the engine. I am trying to decide between p/c and paint, then things are going back together.

Very Nice job,

Dave
69 S

Very nice so far, but is it not dangerous to have your tank on the top of the rack?
When I am working on my bike I always put the tank in a wooden box to avoid scratches or other damage
Keep working
Yvesnorton

Welcome to the forum. What a great 1st post! Nice project and nice shop too! Look forward to seeing it progress.

Wow!

That's it; just "wow".

WoW!! That is going to be a great bike. If you are going to powder coat the frame and engine/trans cradle, I suggest you go to the Tech section on the Old Britts web site. They have some specifics of things you should watch when powder coating. If you have already done this, I'll shut up and go back to my cave.

But again, WoW, that a start.

Nice S-type you have there! We look forward to seeing pictures of the finished bike.

Bill Hirsh tank liner is a good choice. I've got a fiberglass tank lined with the stuff and its been good for two years or so now. It's the ethanol in the gas that gets the glass. As Norbsa said, be careful to avoid making any holidays in the tank liner.

What a nice bike and you are well on your way to a show winner.

Thanks for all of the compliments and info guys - I really appreciate it.

Thanks for the heads up on the tank sealers. I'll keep all of this in mind before I proceed. This wouldn't be my first time as I have used the Kreme product and the POR 15 kit on about six different "metal" tanks. This however would be my first fiberglass tank, so I'm not sure what I'll do at this point after reading the responses.

More than likely at some point I would like to get a second set of body work anyway to put the original set up for safe keeping. I'm not crazy about the Red, but I would like to keep it original since it is in really good shape. The green fastbacks were just beautiful and I'm really partial to the old black and gold as well. I'm really not opposed to an alloy tank and Manx seat from RGM either! But first and foremost I just want to get it back on the road.

Regarding the carbs and ignition, I will be sticking with the Amals at first. They have been rebuilt with Viton tipped needles, and I checked for oblonged wear in the main jet tube. I also drilled out the pilot jet plug and cleaned the pilot jet and passage. I tapped it with a 1/4-20 tap and used a sealing set screw to seal it back up. If it turns out to be a pain I'll look for an alternative, but I'm pretty comfortable tuning carbs and the Amals seem to be as simple as they come.

The ignition will be points for the initial start up and 2000 RPM break in. I'm just more comfortable dialing in a motor with a test light and points so that I can tell exactly when I'm throwing fire to the motor. Once I get it running, tuned, and I'm sure the charging system is working well, I will be looking for an electronic alternative. Points never fail when the battery starts to weak...

Made a little progress today in the polishing department. Wish I could have gotten the brake drum a little better but it will do.

Thanks again guys,

Byrd

One thing I almost forgot - is the Mick Hemmings pretty much a visual step by step process in building the engine and gearbox. I have the PDF commando manual but if there is something out there in video form it would be pretty helpful when putting this thing back together.

Byrdman,

You are making great progress; I am particularly interested because this is exactly the model that I have just finished rebuilding; a 1970 Roadster. I see from your photos that the speedo and rev counter on yours are set on the opposite side to mine, I wonder whether one of them is "incorrect" , or whether that reflects the fact that we drive on different sides of the road, and the speedo is set on the side nearest the middle of the road. That theory might work if yours had been sent to the US by the factory, but I assume that it was purchased in the UK and then brought into the US by the soldier that you refer to.

When I got mine it also had a black painted barrel, but I had noticed on some of the original adds for them (have you seen them? I think that there are a number on this forum under the topic that deals with posting photos and technical info) - that the barrels for the UK domestic market were painted silver; and then overpainted black for the export market. Mine was like that - original silver overpainted with black. So black is correct for the US.

this going to be a nice bike when finished but an observation previously stated your right instrament has been changed and should be simular lettering to your rev counter, the one fitted is 71-74.
no offense ment Al

byrdman76 said:

is the Mick Hemmings pretty much a visual step by step process in building the engine and gearbox.

Click to expand...

Welcome Byrd,

Yes, you can watch Mick completely strip (82 mins. running time) and then rebuild (130 mins. running time) an engine, step-by-step in the "Engine Restoration" double CD, also strip and rebuild the AMC and type earlier gearbox in the "Gearbox Servicing" CD (90mins.) with plenty of hints and tips all the way throughout each one.

possm said:

this going to be a nice bike when finished but an observation previously stated your right instrament has been changed and should be simular lettering to your rev counter, the one fitted is 71-74.
no offense ment Al

Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up - I never knew that. Would one of you guys be so kind to post a picture of the correct cluster for this bike? If it works it will remain the same, however if I am ever at a swap meet and see one show up I would at least like to know what I'm looking for.

Regards,

Byrd

Here ya go, your clocks faces can be changed over to this type during a rebuild.

Welcome - That sure is going to one nice Commando when it's running, over the years mine has given much pleasure - a joy to fix and escape the women indoors, and really relaxing to ride at the end of a frustrating day at work.