850 '74 Warning light assimulator - options?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Feb 10, 2015
Messages
62
In the process of restoring a 74 (Mfg date 9/73) Mk11 Commando 850. Plan to install a Pazon PA2, and a 1 phase 12V 200W regulator. I have the original Lucas 2 wire stator #47205A, and a orignal Rotor 54212006, which I have planned to use.
Need to replace my round can three connector assimulator. Been checking past posts and there is some information out there, but doesn't answer my question. These things arn't cheap so thought I would ask others that have faced this problem.
Will a Lucas 38706 (which I believe is a 60-2054S) work in my setup. I have also read that there are solid state options and special units made for power boxes.
Appreciate any help on what others have done to replace it. Thanks
 
If a stickler for a amber key on warning light can source the various replacements but more practical to eliminate ass-simulator and put color change LED vom in the shell instead. Will act as key on indicator and at a glance charging or discharging state or rpm. Only your hair dresser and you will know for sure.
 
I got the solid state version from RGM which is a direct plug in and forget, but there are better solutions from a functional view with the leds with varying colours and flashes to tell you the current voltage.
 
AZScott said:
Will a Lucas 38706 (which I believe is a 60-2054S) work in my setup. I have also read that there are solid state options and special units made for power boxes.

I suggest you use one of the readily available solid state charge warning monitors instead-as they do not have to be connected to the alternator AC output, and are not all that expensive.

http://aoservices.co.uk/data/bsm.htm

http://aoservices.co.uk/data/lvs.htm

[video]https://youtu.be/veJJtGO8q_Q[/video]
 
L.A.B. said:
AZScott said:
Will a Lucas 38706 (which I believe is a 60-2054S) work in my setup. I have also read that there are solid state options and special units made for power boxes.

I suggest you use one of the readily available solid state charge warning monitors instead-as they do not have to be connected to the alternator AC output, and are not all that expensive.

http://aoservices.co.uk/data/bsm.htm

http://aoservices.co.uk/data/lvs.htm

[video]https://youtu.be/veJJtGO8q_Q[/video]

I have a homemade voltage-based thing I made from stuff at RadioShack. It lights up below 12v. It's quite useful after you get used to the light being on until 2000 rpm with the lights on.
 
On a Commando the red light tells you if 1. the key is on and 2. is the alternator working.
On a Trident the red light tells you if 1. the key is one and 2. is there any oil pressure
On a Interceptor the red light tells you 1. if your high beam is on and 2. nothing else

So actually Id say go with a multi indication LED to tell you about the charging system and then
add an oil pressure gauge.

I find that a 'key on' idiot lamp is necessary if you are of a certain age.
 
I'm a big fan of voltage monitor LEDs as well. The stock assimilator and light only tells you the alternator is putting out AC, it says nothing about the DC voltage. For all you know the zener is dumping most of it.

This is the one I'm using:
http://www.sparkbright.co.uk/battery-vo ... nitors.php

I've got a 3 phase on an E-start. I can get a feel for how much the headlight sucked up at a long traffic light by how long it takes to go green again as I pull away.
 
Do all the LED multi information work with positive ground?
 
Onder said:
On a Commando the red light tells you if 1. the key is on and 2. is the alternator working.
On a Trident the red light tells you if 1. the key is one and 2. is there any oil pressure
On a Interceptor the red light tells you 1. if your high beam is on and 2. nothing else

So actually Id say go with a multi indication LED to tell you about the charging system and then
add an oil pressure gauge.

I find that a 'key on' idiot lamp is necessary if you are of a certain age.

My homemade voltage based circuit doesn't show you if the key is on, I hit the pass to flash button to check that.
 
I think the voltage LED is a great idea, and would get one in an instant.... except I found by eyeballing the cadence at which the turn signal flashes, I always know what V is happening. :idea: :mrgreen:
 
concours said:
I think the voltage LED is a great idea, and would get one in an instant.... except I found by eyeballing the cadence at which the turn signal flashes, I always know what V is happening. :idea: :mrgreen:
I got tired of my signal practically coming to a stop whilst sitting at traffic lights, so a NAPA unit was installed that is independent of voltage (up to a point). I also installed an Eclipse LED in place of the ass-imilator bulb. http://www.sparkbright.co.uk/sparkright ... onitor.php and unplugged and removed the assimilator can.

850 '74  Warning light assimulator - options?


Nathan
 
Onder said:
Do all the LED multi information work with positive ground?

They are plastic cased and don't care what your ground is. Just wire the correct polarity.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top