This was the front replaced first (Remove the housing pivoting the rear) then the rear done in the frame with the front bolt back in place.
The Iso installed with a pushing corkscrew action.
The front is easier on the centre stand because the engine will pivot up easily on the rear Isolastic more so if the airbox is in place, the filter out on a ham can (?) and the two low and one upper 1/4" bolts on the plastic airbox so it can move rearward with the carburetors still attached.
The front Isolastic housing will come up from the bottom with the ends removed and engine rotated, lifted above the frame lugs the discs and threaded caps can then be installed.
Pushed from the T/S the D/S can be installed with the grubscrew but not with excess preload (perhaps) if the outer rubbers are not quite in the right spot, the T/S can then be fit and the housing dropped, 3/8" bolts fit then the engine rotated to fit the front 1/2" bolt.
The rear can then be rotated down and done in place, I lowered the engine on a floor jack with wooden protector based on that pic but wonder if the rear of the frame could be lifted as another option.
Or something like that, I read it was all but impossible or tricky but did not find that . Slow and steady.
View attachment 84248
If the bike needs new Isolastics it will most likely need other area's addressed also.
The Vernier adjustment is easy based on the brand and thread class which means all that needs doing is add rotation which will reduce once the fastener is torqued to spec.
I forget offhand but with the RGM, 3 clicks maybe which will reduce to two (0,008 / 0,009")
Edited for detail.