74 Mk2 - handlebar switch cluster wiring harness -???

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I need to replace the LH switch cluster wiring harness. are these available - either new lucas or reproduction? i'm drawing a blank in my search effort. I found a 6-conductor, 18 AWG generic, cable, but only as a last resort. the switch assembly is OK, I just need to replace the wiring. thanks....
 
There are no direct replacements for the 6 wire only the 5 wire that I could find a year ago, only way is to get hold of another 6 wire switch but that is wasteful. I spent a good fews days looking, try ebay and ask the guy who does the 5 wire replica if he has any since I looked as it has been a year.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-...007279?hash=item3f6090452f:g:cf8AAOSwbwlXCtqA

I see he does do a 6 wire but colours are wrong,

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-...188157?hash=item3fc30a8cbd:g:ew4AAOSwQ5Zc4foR
 
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Unless an electric starter has been fitted then there's no need for more than five wires as the white/red 'WR' wire isn't used.
 
Unless an electric starter has been fitted then there's no need for more than five wires as the white/red 'WR' wire isn't used.

That would be the right side on a '74 MK II
 
That would be the right side on a '74 MK II

Well then, the 'other' switch should have five wires:

Blue 'U'
Blue/white 'UW'
Blue/red 'UR'
White 'W'
Purple/black 'PB'
74 Mk2 - handlebar switch cluster wiring harness -???
 
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should have been more clear - I need to replace the 5 conductor harness. right now, I have a generic, 6 conductor, 18AWG cable. rather not use it....

74 Mk2 - handlebar switch cluster wiring harness -???
 
I'm looking for the same; followed the link above with no luck. Does anyone have supplier for this? Many thanks.
 
Why not make your own? The correct color wire is available from British Wiring (and others) and the gray sleeving is available from a couple sources or recycled from an old harness (some of the available sleeve is a different shade of gray).
 
I'm looking for the same; followed the link above with no luck. Does anyone have supplier for this? Many thanks.

"Lead has been made using the correct colours as per the originals. For clarity the RH switch has mainly Green wires and is for the Indicators / the LH lead has mainly Blue wires and is for the Horn / Lights.
These leads are the five wire type and are NOT suitable for the six wire versions of the switches.
Please note the grey covering is a sleeve not a moulded cable.

Quality UK made part using modern thin wall 1mm c.s.a. cable and proper hexagonal bullet crimps.
Bare lead ends are supplied pre tinned to allow you to solder to original switches.
Happy to post Internationally - see postal tab for charges. Previous sales have gone to Australia / France / Germany / Italy / New Zealand / Spain.

** International Post temporarily suspended due to advice from Royal Mail **"
 
I need to replace the LH switch cluster wiring harness. are these available - either new lucas or reproduction? i'm drawing a blank in my search effort. I found a 6-conductor, 18 AWG generic, cable, but only as a last resort. the switch assembly is OK, I just need to replace the wiring. thanks....
Why do you need to replace it? If it's just ugly, that can be fixed. The truly annoying thing is seeing people selling the switch clusters with the cable cut off - the cable is the only hard to get part!

Best to never say left or right here when talking about switch clusters - you'll trigger someone for sure :)
 
After looking for a long time, I found heat shrink that is a close match for the cables, the grey version of this:
Amazon product ASIN B01BZE0U68
The 14-strand wire here is available in all the correct colors: http://www.britishwiring.com/PVC-Wires-s/67.htm

Using heat shrink is not perfect but then using a sleeve big enough to get the wires through, IMHO, is worse. The originals are molded to the wire.

I buy the OEM cables, with or without the switch cluster whenever I find them for a reasonable price. With elbow grease, time, and a selection of cleaners, I make them look somewhere between very good and new. So far, I've never built a bike without good looking switch clusters and cables. But, my stock of cables is about gone so I may start making them using heat shrink.
 
Why do you need to replace it? If it's just ugly, that can be fixed. The truly annoying thing is seeing people selling the switch clusters with the cable cut off - the cable is the only hard to get part!

Best to never say left or right here when talking about switch clusters - you'll trigger someone for sure :)
Thanks for all the input.

The switches are fine, look great, its the plastic connectors inside that are broken. If I could get the plastic parts, then I'd try making the cable clusters myself; thats a good idea.
 
If you mean the buttons and bat handle, those are available from these guys:
https://www.eurojamb.com/collections/norton-electrical
Thanks for all the input.

The switches are fine, look great, its the plastic connectors inside that are broken. If I could get the plastic parts, then I'd try making the cable clusters myself; thats a good idea.
OK, I'm completely lost. I rebuild these often and I know of no "plastic parts inside" that would cause you to change the cable. If you email me a picture of what's wrong, I'll try to help: marshg@gregmarsh.com.
 
I think MCP means the (not available) plastic plate that the cable attaches to that does the switching.

The main internals in my 850 were as good as the day they were made, it was only the red Mk2a button that I could not find a replacement for (easily) hence machining it to take a sectioned black lower portion.
The grey sheathing came up fine with WD40 then a lash of plastic polish followed by Pledge.

74 Mk2 - handlebar switch cluster wiring harness -???
 
I think MCP means the (not available) plastic plate that the cable attaches to that does the switching.
Could be, but then this thread is about a replacement cable, not that. At any rate, if he emails me, and it's a standard Lucas pre-MKIII part, I probably can help him. I could have helped you as well with either a new set of buttons or a used red one. I do like how you made one. I know another guy who made a black one with a 3-D printer - probably only took him 8 hours. He about died when I showed him the used ones I have.
 
He about died when I showed him the used ones I have.

I could have used my 3D scanner on a good black button then 3D printed another in red but that seemed to easy (as was buying a new one), I like that the original red button (that a PO broke) got to live again after hanging in there for 46+ years.
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As far as the cable , I can't imagine why one would need replacing unless it had been butchered (new bullets are easy) and think even if you found one you would need to be brave or an electronics grade solderer to attach it to the main plate without melting it or some other calamity.
There are still plenty of good used units out there with good internals and cables along with NOS still readily available. (I am lucky enough to have plenty of both but will go to near any time effort to save original parts)

Perhaps what is does show is, this modern age can not do that of 50 years ago in many cases.
 
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