74 Mk2 A getting it back on the road

Well my new to me Mk2A is making progress. Just put a few miles on it after being laid up for over 20 years. Did a few miles on it last month but had shifting problems, took the outer cover and went to replace the hairpin shift spring. Found that the inner ratchet was seized to the outer shifter pawl carrier. Took well over an hour to free it and get the shifter assembly disassembled so I could replace the spring. Maybe I should have coated it with anti-seize. Didn't do much with the bike after that until today.
Took the bike out and she shifts easily but the shift lever needs a slight touch to return. Going to take it apart again over the weekend and see if I missed a spot of rust on the shaft that could be causing the problem. Might dig into my stash of stuff and find a complete shifter assembly and install that. It's always something isn't it.

John in Texas

Has the original layshaft bearing been replaced?

I have the same bike, well, an Interstate anyway, and the same thing happened to me many years ago, despite the bike being in frequent use. You did well to separate those two parts, or maybe mine were more badly seized. I simply could not separate them, not with the gear I had available anyway, so I replaced them with new parts. Keep on keeping on with that beautiful machine!

I recently experienced this. The bike stuck in second gear pulling away from a light. The two shafts stuck together was not on my list of probable causes. I live far enough north that I have difficulty getting my oils hot enough to drive out moisture. I switched to ATF in the gearbox to see if this helps. Mine cleaned up easily enough but there was emulsified oil and rust formed into a crud that prevented the two shafts from operating independently. I change my oil often but I guess I will pull and clean the shifter pawl occasionally. And all this time I thought the leaking oil would prevent that sort of thing!

Russ

Redline gearbox oil coats everything with itself and doesn't drip off so try it to prevent rusty sticking springs n' pawls inside the outer cover.

rvich said:

I recently experienced this. The bike stuck in second gear pulling away from a light. The two shafts stuck together was not on my list of probable causes. I live far enough north that I have difficulty getting my oils hot enough to drive out moisture. I switched to ATF in the gearbox to see if this helps. Mine cleaned up easily enough but there was emulsified oil and rust formed into a crud that prevented the two shafts from operating independently. I change my oil often but I guess I will pull and clean the shifter pawl occasionally. And all this time I thought the leaking oil would prevent that sort of thing!

Russ

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Well I pulled the outer cover off and the shafts just fell apart so that wasn't the problem. I noticed that the clutch cable adjustment had gone was off in the short time I was riding it around the hood. Having been there years ago I opened up the primary again and re-torqued the main shaft nut holding the clutch on. Then did the same thing with the shift side. Replaced the clutch cable but I couldn't get the adjuster on the clutch to run up tight to the clutch rod before backing it off 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn. It has only a thread or two showing above the diaphragm spring. Yes the lever inside the outer cover is seated correctly. Need to check the stack height on the clutch and the length of the clutch push rod. The way it looks the stack height is to high or the push rod is to short which I doubt. It came with a Barnett Clutch and looking at it, but not measuring it, when I was re-assembling it was close to the top of the splines before I put the pressure plate on. Think that is where my issue lies.
And, no I haven't replaced the lay shaft bearing.

John in Texas

You are sure your inner clutch lever housing is screwed all the way in? Sounds like it might have tightened up before running all the way in to the bearing shoulder.

grandpaul said:

You are sure your inner clutch lever housing is screwed all the way in? Sounds like it might have tightened up before running all the way in to the bearing shoulder.

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Well it didn't rotate when I finished tightening it so I am pretty sure it is tight. I won't have time to open up the primary for about a week, getting ready for Davenport. I will take pictures when I do and let you all see what I see. I will pick up a 203NJ bearing so I can have that when I pull it apart.
Getting a bit wet here.

John in Texas

A 74 probably had the dreaded Portugese layshaft bearing. Mine did. If you got that much of the box apart, time to replace it with a roller. If it fails it locks the rear wheel and pulling the clutch in won't help.

Your model year most likely has the dreaded Portuguese bearing. It must be replaced. Lots of info on how to. :!:

Torontonian said:

Your model year most likely has the dreaded Portuguese bearing. It must be replaced. Lots of info on how to. :!:

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I have replaced the lay shaft bearings with the roller bearings on all of my other Commandos, I have 3. This one is new to me and I am still picking at it to make it mine if you know what I mean. 20 years off the road can do more damage than riding it every week for 20 years.

John in Texas

Check your primary chain tension. 3/8 hot in middle of run

rgrigutis said:

Check your primary chain tension. 3/8 hot in middle of run

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That is a good idea, I hadn't thought about that. Did a few more laps around the hood and the shifter still need a slight touch to get it to return.
Got a new roller lay shaft bearing that I plan to install before the NTNOA get together in Jefferson Texas the end of the month. I was thinking that there might be some rust on the shaft that located the shift forks which could hang up the shifter.
I hope I can get the old lay shaft bearing out without pulling the primary and gearbox. Report to follow.

John in Texas

Well I spoke to the previous owner and he tells me he had replaced the lay shaft bearing with a roller one. One thing I won't have to deal with. Took the outer cover off the transmission and inspected the shifter parts. Didn't see anything until I went to put it all back together. Then I had my ah ha moment!
The pawl carrier was hitting the gear shift stop plate and I had to assemble them before putting them back in place. I had never run into this before. So I took it all back apart used my Dremel tool to grind off a little where the pawl carrier and the stop plate touched and my problem was solved.
Need to contact the previous owner and see if he remembers having that issue with the shifter hanging up.
Put 50 miles on it and plan to put more on tomorrow.

John in Texas

Just did a nice 100 mile run today. Went to Hico for coffee and a slice of pie, what could be better. Think I will change the counter shaft sprocket to 22 teeth for a more relaxed ride.

John in Texas

Replaced the clutch cable but I couldn't get the adjuster on the clutch to run up tight to the clutch rod before backing it off 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn

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ok I know this sounds obvious but, the arm that you attach the clutch cable too inside the gearbox?

it probably fell from its proper upright position when you released the cable and went over to the primary side....

you know about this, right? and you insured the arm was pulled up before you attached the cable......no offense, just something I had to learn about many years ago

Not sure if this makes a difference or not but the bushings that are supposed to be free rolling in the 2nd or 3rd gears, I think, could make shifting a little sticky.
All I know is when I did my gear box, which before was a bit less smooth shifting, I found those bushing to be locked up.
I freed them, gave them a bit of buffing and made sure they were free running. Shifts like a dream.
All I am saying is that a thorough cleaning after a 20 year hiatus is in order.
Oh, and ATF I think would help in the colder temps.