73 Commando 750 fixer upper

stuck once again, ordered the wrong head nuts and center bolt? I started working on this norton sometime in 2011. I got the bike non running, the head was off and all the bolts and nuts were missing. That was one of the first orders of parts I made back then. Now I'm getting to the point were I'm putting things back together and I don't know why I ordered these parts.

here's my bike



I'm a novice mechanic, I got Mick Hemmings dvd and started diving in to fix up the bike. Some things I overlooked and will go back and do a full restore at a later date but for now I just wanted to get the bike running again.

The cam lifters had melted on the PO and chewed up the cam throwing bits of metal all through the case.




being all new to British bikes I had to spend a bit on sockets and wrenches, and some specialty tools. I had to find a NOS camshaft, new lifters, etc.



Sent the head off to Leo Goff of Memphis motorworks to restore the head.



I've got the case back together, honed the cylinders and fit new rings.

Right now I just finished determining TDC and installed the points. Put a new head gasket on, fit the head and realized I don't have the proper nuts and center bolt to install the head. not sure where I went wrong there but ordered these parts awhile back. the thread on the nuts are too big for the studs coming up from the jugs and the center bolt looks to be way too long. It's frustrating not having anyone around who knows anything about brit bikes without having to pay them by the hour.



so I'll post some more pics as I button things up. let me know what you think.

That test bench doesn't look too novice.

A novice mistake, and maybe not so novice, is giving due diligence to the oil passages throughout the cases. Locate all grub screws (set screw plugs), shine lights, poke and prod, and validate that they are all clear and clean.

Many a rebuilds have gone south because of this fundimental oversight, particularly when bits are so presant.

Keep posting photos with progress. We'll all be watching.

Also strip the oil pump and check the internal gears. My '72 was bought as a non runner in '97.1 The left piston collided with the exhaust valve. The pump was destroyed.

yep, found a bunch of chunks in the oil pump, fished pieces out of oil channels with rare earth magnet, it was a mess.

Hi Sprocket, welcome. I see the red RTV around the base gasket... have you found any in the oil pasages? That shit is soooo prone to making rubber snakes and plugging things. Be extra super diligent about cleaning EVERYTHING... oil tank, oil lines, oil filter housing, sump screen (of course) passages (as previously mentioned) and EVERY other place that shit can hide. Good luck with the resto..

putting the motor in

I tried doing my own tires, pinched three tubes before I was successful

updated the iso mounts

switching to a single carb

Novice mechanic my ass! Cool paint. Ya gonna keep it that color?

oh yeah, that i believe is original metal flake. it's beautiful, i would never change it.

only thing i go back and forth on is if I want to put on a clear wind vetter

sprocket750 said:

putting the motor in

I tried doing my own tires, pinched three tubes before I was successful

updated the iso mounts

switching to a single carb

Click to expand...

Single carbs are for LAWNMOWERS :mrgreen:

concours said:

Single carbs are for LAWNMOWERS :mrgreen:

Click to expand...

And powder coat is for lawn furniture.

DogT

DogT said:

concours said:

Single carbs are for LAWNMOWERS :mrgreen:

Click to expand...

And powder coat is for lawn furniture.

DogT

Click to expand...

+1 LOL

says it is for a Norton commando and comes with a manifold that fits right up so...says mikuni ,thanks

DogT said:

concours said:

Single carbs are for LAWNMOWERS :mrgreen:

Click to expand...

And powder coat is for lawn furniture.

DogT

Click to expand...

What if it's a riding lawnmower and you're racing it? What if your lawn furniture is made of wood?

Too late now and may not matter but these things blow up hot and expanded and Al non-magnetic bits get stuck in oil sump passage then engine cools off and traps em good. Heat cases too hot to handle w/o thick gloves and fish wire in or hi PSI air and hope for the best. Best wishes stealing time to go through a 2nd time to touch up the initial skip overs.

if you're referring to the channel inside the case when the oil first comes in from the feed lines then yeah, I did my best with a strong magnet and then compressed air. man, I think got it all out :wink:

started assembling the primary inner case, sprocket ,rotor, and clutch. The Norton manual is really vague on this IMO, I gleened some info from other posts on this forum but still not sure If I got it right. That is, the shims and washer/spacer.

I don't think there is a problem with the alternator side as I went Key, sprocket, the two shims, then the spacer with the recessed part facing out so that the next smaller rotor key can fit. Then the next key, rotor, fan washer and nut.

Now the clutch side is what I'm not so sure about. I have the clutch basket already assembled so onto the shaft and up against the inner primary cover I placed two shims, thick washer, then clutch basket into groove on shaft, secure clutch basket with spring washer and nut, then the pressure plate, snap in ring, insert the long rod, then adjuster screw and nut.

1st circlip, then thick washer (circlip retaining washer), then shims, then basket.

oh, I see the circlip now. http://www.accessnorton.com/gearbox-mainshaft-circlip-t13955.html

sprocket750 said:

oh, I see the circlip now. http://www.accessnorton.com/gearbox-mainshaft-circlip-t13955.html

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BEWARE...the torque spec of 70 Ft. Lbs. for the clutch hub is WRONG. No more than 40 ft. lbs. It was a misprint.

40 ft-lbs and blue locktite.