69 Steering Dissasembly - stuck
- Thread starter vbro
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How big is your hammer? :mrgreen:
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Put a block of wood on the top of the stem, and tap it out.
If it still won't budge, put some cloth around the wood and give it a wallop with that hammer mentioned. The cloth, and wooden block, is to prevent the threads being damaged. It may help in this respect if you put a nut back onto the top of threads, so they can't get damaged. Don't part engage the nut though, make sure its threaded all the way on.
If it still won't budge, put some cloth around the wood and give it a wallop with that hammer mentioned. The cloth, and wooden block, is to prevent the threads being damaged. It may help in this respect if you put a nut back onto the top of threads, so they can't get damaged. Don't part engage the nut though, make sure its threaded all the way on.
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:shock:
be wary of buggering it with a big hammer . You need a clean pice of 4 x 2 pine as a sacrificial thing , if you do .
IF the big bit is secued so it doesnt bounce when you hit it , the force should kick it free . If youre in alignment .
Generally Two Large whacks , then a cup of tea . And a good talk to it between atempts .This is why people have PRESSES . Big hydraulic ones .
You need to support / wrestle the frame securely . So efforts not dissapated , but chief concern is mutilateing the poor stem or twisting lower clamp .
Keep it all squuare . the force .
be wary of buggering it with a big hammer . You need a clean pice of 4 x 2 pine as a sacrificial thing , if you do .
IF the big bit is secued so it doesnt bounce when you hit it , the force should kick it free . If youre in alignment .
Generally Two Large whacks , then a cup of tea . And a good talk to it between atempts .This is why people have PRESSES . Big hydraulic ones .
You need to support / wrestle the frame securely . So efforts not dissapated , but chief concern is mutilateing the poor stem or twisting lower clamp .
Keep it all squuare . the force .
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vbro said:
There is nothing but the two bearings and the stem. Whack away! Can we assume you are going to be replacing the bearings?
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In the ideal world, a heavy lead mallet is best.
I've used a block of wood and hard mallet in the past but you run the risk of splitting the wood and marring the spindle with the hard mallet. DAMHIK.
Soaking with a little ATF and a solvent is a good idea.
I've used a block of wood and hard mallet in the past but you run the risk of splitting the wood and marring the spindle with the hard mallet. DAMHIK.
Soaking with a little ATF and a solvent is a good idea.
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Oh ugh have I been though this one on pre-Peel. Screw the stem nut back on a fair number of threads, get out torch and tenderly heat the whole stem, hot to touch to even smoke some and maybe blister bearing seals or pry out first, slowly so heat can soak in deeply yet not to bubble paint, then with the hardest thick wood block you can find or a hardened plastic one, use at least a 3 lb sludge and with bike robustly stabilized, SCREAM "COMMANDO" AND SLAM THE LIVING DAYLIGHtS OUT OF IT and get on with the job, ie: screw off the nut and finish with block and wood drifts as needed on your now won battle. If first Man whack don't do it, get some ice in rags on the bottom york and hold one on top till bored then SLAM BAM THANKYOU Mam. Bearings are history anyway at this point. One of the reason I consider a Commando a real man's cycle as makes me feel like a overwhelmed infant too dam often.
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Cough, cough, cough, cough, wheeze, cough.
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850,850cmndo said:
"inner race"... meant inner face? If so, are we talking the outer edge of the bearing to the inner face of the frame neck?
Thanks!
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swooshdave said:
850 and Swoosh,850cmndo said:
I am not knowledgeable enough about the life of these bearings, but assume you're saying that the rust issue would render these ones toast?
I should have mentioned that even though the stem's not wanting to move out of the frame when asked nicely, it turns freely. Not stuck side to side, just moving up and down in the neck.
Again, I'm novice here, so help me with my thinking, but I assume new bearings will help somewhat with vibration issues (I know there's no way around this with this bike, but I've got a bit of carpal tunnel, so want to minimize the vibes wherever possible).
Also, from what LAB says above, these might not be correct for the 69, are the later ones acceptable? Better? Worse?
Thanks!
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Connie,concours said:
Great thing to know, THANKS!
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LAB,L.A.B. said:
I am novice to these bikes, so don't know what I'm looking at here, I would defer to more knowledgeable opinions on that. Is the bearing pictured a later model bearing?
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Dances,Dances with Shrapnel said:
Soaking now, and will get a banger with some heft.
Thanks!
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Hobot,hobot said:
It's nice when a thing can keep you humble like this... Will try heating things up before the next attempt.
Thanks!
THANKS FOR YOUR HELP AND HAPPY NEW YEAR ALL!!!!!!!!!
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Well Sharpnel with an attitude like that you'd never stand a chance taking pre-Ms Peel apart, which was how I literally cut my teeth and broke bones on, the swing arm spindle, the crank cases, the steering stem, the crank pulley, wheel bearings and brake caliper cap. You have no idea how much and close I came to selling or just trashing that abused Combat distorted rusted Albatross off, especially after my SV640 and corner school Ninja ride in the interim. One must do what is needed, sorry if your mechanic scope doesn't cover what Peel drove me too. Trixie, that sat up decade plus in river front cycle shop before Katrina washed it away, was a piece of cake compared as her spindle only took like 26,000 lb of the 30,000 pound press in a bull dozer shop. Oh yeah pre- no name Peel also gave me another mean lesion on fork top bolt caps. Ugh. So cover your mouth please when coughing in public about my level of grabbing a bigger hammer.
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Once you hammer on a bearing like you're about to do you'll most likely mar the ball bearings into the race. When you can press out a bearing by the outer race it won't damage the balls. WIth these bearings the only way to get them out is to hammer on the stem which is frozen to the inner race(s). At about $12 ea it's just prudent to replace at this point.
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Oppsiepoo, Sharpnel teasing threw me off point,
vrbo the bearings may not yet be trash in the sense that they still spin free as new but once you put the required WHOMPPING a rusted stem in inner races needs, the balls will become what is terming "brindled", ie: flat faceted in spots all around. If you've ever ridden a rodeo bronco trying to toss you opposite of what you were prepared for, then you have a good idea of what its like riding a cycle with sticking stem bearings. ATF and acetone plus heat/cold cycles is best freeing agents as suggested and some things take a number of cycles of heating soaping SMACKING, and focus of collective mind on the chemical bonds to free up like magic - eventually. When I say i was thrown into infantile states, i mean like ruining blindly with tear filled eyes of pain and frustration out into the Ozark night screaming to high heavens, enough police would of been called in not so far from neighbors, who now know its just me and my Norton again.
vrbo the bearings may not yet be trash in the sense that they still spin free as new but once you put the required WHOMPPING a rusted stem in inner races needs, the balls will become what is terming "brindled", ie: flat faceted in spots all around. If you've ever ridden a rodeo bronco trying to toss you opposite of what you were prepared for, then you have a good idea of what its like riding a cycle with sticking stem bearings. ATF and acetone plus heat/cold cycles is best freeing agents as suggested and some things take a number of cycles of heating soaping SMACKING, and focus of collective mind on the chemical bonds to free up like magic - eventually. When I say i was thrown into infantile states, i mean like ruining blindly with tear filled eyes of pain and frustration out into the Ozark night screaming to high heavens, enough police would of been called in not so far from neighbors, who now know its just me and my Norton again.
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vbro said:
Up to 1970, adjustable 'cup and cone' bearings (with a total of 36 loose balls) were used (although I believe some of our '69 model owners have found a pair of apparently original [Edit] angular contact thrust bearings).
http://www.bigdcycle.com/book%20project ... index.html
From 1971, the factory fitted a pair of non-adjustable sealed ball bearings (with a spacer tube) and the stem was then became part of the upper yoke.
http://www.oldbritts.com/1971_g11.html
http://www.oldbritts.com/nor_comm_71_11.html
The later sealed bearings usually give no trouble.
If the bearings have been changed to the later type then perhaps that is why the stem is tight or it may just be rusted as others have suggested which is often the case.
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