520 O ring Chain - yea or nay?

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MexicoMike

MexicoMike

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I have been planning to switch to the 520 oring chain setup - either from CNW or Old Britts. But before I do so I decided I'd like some feedback as to whether it's worth it. I have no objection to removing/cleaning/lubing standard chains periodically but of course, NOT having to do that would be easier! Also, where the bike will be is a very dusty area which would probably mean a lot longer life out of an Oring chain as opposed to regular.

The oem front sprocket and drive chain need replacing anyway due to wear. SO I have to put on a sprocket/chain anyway. BUt, of course, the main expense of the switch to the O ring is the rear sprocket/brake drum.

So basically, I'm trying to decide if it's worth the expense to go the oring route and would like to hear from anyone with experience switching from oem to oring and if there are real long-term benefits.
 
I went X ring on the Victor I finished last year, went 428 instead of 520 plus added a tensioner, no adjustments needed and low speed snatch is eliminated. X ring is lower friction than an O ring chain.
 
One of the best mods you can make, IMHO, especially if the bike is ridden in a dusty environment. I have the CNW kit on my 750 and it's a good value if you need a new brake drum. If your current brake drum is ok, you could save some money by having a local machinist mill the teeth down, then just buying a chain and 520 front sprocket (from a pre Commando model).

My 850 is still running the oil slinger chain, but an upgrade is on the wish list for when the budget permits!

Debby
 
4500 miles, lubed with a synthetic chain grease and still not adjusted, old 530 needed adjustment every 1000 minimum.
 
"If your current brake drum is ok, you could save some money by having a local machinist mill the teeth down,"

Yes, the rear drum is fine and I just put all new bearings in it about two months ago which is one reason I wasn't all that wild about putting in a new one. BUT...since I'm here in Mexico, I'm not sure I really trust a "machinist" to do the work... A machinist may just be a guy with a portable grinder and heck, I've got one of those. :) I'll be in the US next month for two months, I guess I could just take it with me and have the work done there. Basically it just consists of narrowing the width of the teeth, right?
 
All material off left side (0.125") and profile the teeth to match original.......no idea of chamfer angle though.
 
MexicoMike said:
"If your current brake drum is ok, you could save some money by having a local machinist mill the teeth down,"

Yes, the rear drum is fine and I just put all new bearings in it about two months ago which is one reason I wasn't all that wild about putting in a new one. BUT...since I'm here in Mexico, I'm not sure I really trust a "machinist" to do the work... A machinist may just be a guy with a portable grinder and heck, I've got one of those. :) I'll be in the US next month for two months, I guess I could just take it with me and have the work done there. Basically it just consists of narrowing the width of the teeth, right?
Click to expand...

There have to be auto machine shops there. Just someone with a big enough lathe and willing to do the work right.
 
I've read that "x" ring is superior at keeping in the lube, therefore much better value as allegedly the chain wears much slower.

I can't prove it, but that's how I understood it when I researched it.

I have just changed both of my chain driven bikes to "X" ring, but as I've very few miles on yet, can't advise as to how they are or are not wearing.
 
I like mine. Chain is a safety item. I used to worry about it snapping and locking the back wheel at speed on the highway.

So I got an x-ring and then worried about the layshaft bearing locking up the back wheel at speed on the highway. Replaced that.

Now at speed on the highway all I worry about is soccer moms in SUVs, texting while driving.

Progress!
 
"I used to worry about it snapping and locking the back wheel at speed on the highway. "

Had that happen to me on a Honda 350 at around 70 MPH on Ft Benning GA many years ago! Pretty exciting and a good exercise but otherwise, no damage! :)

My plan now is to take my rear hub to the US when I go at the end of the month and ship it to Old Britts for machining.l I'll ask Fred to check it out carefully and if he feels the teeth profile is worn so that it will affect the new chain, I'll have him just send me the new one with the sealed bearing. But if my old one is ok, that would save a good chunk of money.
 
Mike, I'm really happy you're still with us!

Have HEARD of this happening, but not to anyone I "know" before now.

Christ - musta cost you a new chain, maybe sprockets, a master clip....and if it were me, some new BVDs....! :oops:
 
Luckily it did nothing major to the bike other than lock up the rear wheel. Heck, you remember all the skidding you used to do as a kid on a coaster-brake bicycle? Good training! Also, I was around 23 at the time with much better reactions and balance than I have now and I was riding a lot, actively pursuing becoming a professional road racer, which I planned to do upon leaving the US Army. So I did have a good bit of bike handling experience and I fancied myself the next Mike Hailwood. However, after about two years of local campaigning, I discovered that although I was a racing legend in my own mind, Mr. Hailwood's achievements were quite safe! In fact, I was dismayed to find that I was hardly at the level of the local amateurs that normally placed somewhere below 6-7th place at best. ;)

It was back then that I first discovered that a good rider on a 350 could outrun a lessor rider (me) on a 750 (Commando). :(
 
I say yea. I have a small 3 in 1 Smithy lathe in the basement and was able to turn the hub down to size. The chamfer was simply eyeballed to the other side with a mill file. 3 seconds worth of light pressure. A little fussy to mount but anyone with tooling experience can get it done. Big machine not needed.
 
As I get "more ready" to do this I have another question... what about sprocket life with the 520 chain? Obviously there is a lot more roller/sprocket surface area on the oem 530 setup than there is with the 520 set up. But does it really have any negative affect on sprocket/brakedrum wear or was the Commando (at least in this regard) way over-engineerd from the factory?
 
As I get "more ready" to do this I have another question... what about sprocket life with the 520 chain?
Click to expand...

BINGO** MexicoMikie!
I've so done with 520 chain, tried it on Peel Combat and my SV650 only to find about nil racing benefit but way way faster complete destruction of the front sprocket and rear teeth too. I suppose its fine for those who don't really use Norton torque but I sure do love to and only 530 chain for me from now on. Dry plain chain will last longer in gritty conditions and no mess either for more time savings.

X-ring is way to go, O ring stands for very stiff and OBSOLETE.
If you must find out what I did, an off the shelf Altas front sprocket is spot on and ther rear drum teeth get milled off DS to 0.240" thick with some tapper to help chain into valleys.

530 Xring will wear a slight groove in gb shell all by itself w/o a problemo to shell strength or noisy after a good ride. Some will clear fine to start with.

No photo's of the ruined drums, but on hand holding trap down on mower.

520 O ring Chain - yea or nay?
 
Dunno if it's just the way I've put mine together or not, but was looking at fitting an o-ring chain I had sitting around last weekend and found that being a bit wider than the original, it scrapes on the inside of the chain guard. Something wrong or just bend the guard?
 
If you are talking about fitting a 530 o-ring chain - it is wider than a non-Oring (oem Commando) 530 chain so it will likely rub on something. The conversion involves fitting a 520 O (or X) ring chain and sprockets. A 520 O/X ring chain is the same width as a standard (non O/X-ring) 530 chain.
 
530 O-bsolete or X-tra good ring sealed chain is too wide to clear but by so little its a total non issue to either relieve it your self or let it chew a clear path on its own.
Some fit w/o any clash its that close a call to get clean no maintenance long life chain. Now I understand that a Norton 750 has similar grunt than old 45 cid HD's.
Slightest chain wear in a 520 let the links creep towards the teeth tips and I know what that means too soon after. You'll call of course, just my view now.

O-bsolete stiff ring chain will not lay down in the valleys as well as X-ring free chain does at speed - so accelerates the teething troubles.
 
I stayed stock Mike.
I've put almost 2,000 trouble free miles on my stock set up.
I guess if it was my dispatch bike ridden in all climates I'd upgrade.
Seems like allot of $ for me as I wouldn't benefit from the expense.
It gets lubed at 600-1,000 mile intervals after a ride while hot.
Marshal
 
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