3AW open circuit, Podtronics no output.. what happened?

spdtrpl

spdtrpl

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After installing an Alton elec start the bike has been starting fantastically well and running great for a couple of hundred miles. Today I installed a Lucas LED headlight and BA7S led warning lights, all looked good for 5 minutes then the charge warning light would stay on at all engine speeds.

I first tested the 3AW Assimilator which is now open between all three contacts so it's bad. I then tested the Alton alternator output which fortunately looks good. The alternator voltage is getting to my Podtronic regulator, but the Podtronic is outputting 13v up to about 1500 rpms then its output drops to a couple of volts.

I'd appreciate input as to what caused this - would installing an LED headlight have taken out the 3AW which then took out the Podtronic? Or, am I just testing the circuits incorrectly? Am I safe to just buy new components or is there something with installing the LED bulbs that will cause more problems, should I go back to incandescent bulbs?

As it looks like I need new regulator and new assimilator should I buy the same parts again or is there something better than the 3AW? I have used Podtronics for a long time without problems but is there something else I should consider?

Thanks
 
spdtrpl said:
After installing an Alton elec start the bike has been starting fantastically well and running great for a couple of hundred miles. Today I installed a Lucas LED headlight and BA7S led warning lights, all looked good for 5 minutes then the charge warning light would stay on at all engine speeds.

I first tested the 3AW Assimilator which is now open between all three contacts so it's bad. I then tested the Alton alternator output which fortunately looks good. The alternator voltage is getting to my Podtronic regulator, but the Podtronic is outputting 13v up to about 1500 rpms then its output drops to a couple of volts.

I'd appreciate input as to what caused this - would installing an LED headlight have taken out the 3AW which then took out the Podtronic? Or, am I just testing the circuits incorrectly? Am I safe to just buy new components or is there something with installing the LED bulbs that will cause more problems, should I go back to incandescent bulbs?

As it looks like I need new regulator and new assimilator should I buy the same parts again or is there something better than the 3AW? I have used Podtronics for a long time without problems but is there something else I should consider?

Thanks
Click to expand...
Simply remove the assimilator - it is not required for operation - once everything else is working you can think about that (to me they are worthless and there are much better options).

If you're measuring the red and black wires from the podtronics and the wires are connected normally, it cannot drop to less than the battery voltage as it is wired across the battery.

With your meter on AC volts, check the yellow wires to the podtronics with them still connected to the stator. That voltage should go up as the rpms increase as long as the battery is not fully charged. Then disconnect the yellow wires and measure the stator wires with the engine running - you should get around 30 volts at around 2500 rpm (exact numbers don't matter but at least 20 volts).

The LED is not likely to have caused anything. You can simply disconnect it and test to be sure.
 
Spdtrpl,
You can also look at the unit from ICM(ImprovingClassicMotorcycles).They fit right into the hole in your headlight and work well.I have been using one for some time now and like the way they operate.Like Kommando posted,there are a variety of modern options out there.
Mike
 
YING said:
Spdtrpl,
You can also look at the unit from ICM(ImprovingClassicMotorcycles).They fit right into the hole in your headlight and work well.I have been using one for some time now and like the way they operate.Like Kommando posted,there are a variety of modern options out there.
Mike
Click to expand...
Thanks. Just ordered one, looks like a big improvement over the assimilator
 


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