24 Tooth Countershaft Sprocket
- Thread starter chasesa
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Why not just email kraakevik and ask?
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Peel torque will be increased over average even w/o blower. What ever is standard hi rpm power making I did the opposite. What ever restricts boost making more power did it. I will not be able to use much throttle d/t tire spin or AMC shaft twist up. May end up light enough AMC box might hold up for pretty fun run ups, just not 1/4 m record attempt.
Most useless gear to Peel was 3rd, not long legged puller like 4th nor passing/'racing' get go of 2nd. Yet only cog I've broken, go figure. Spoke to the fella I bought pre-Ms Peel from, he's a 120 cid SS BigTwin 9 ft long chopper. Says he can leave it in 6th to ride in close slow city traffic d/t Torque. Also says he's had it up to 150 just fine.
Another was to get more tranny shaft/bush/bearing endurance is to support the tranny sprocket between two bearings via an out rigger one.
Peel gets 2:! Maney 40 mm belt. Will fit the biggest/lowest ratio 1st I can buy or fit. 2nd is the taller 850 ratio, 3rd standard ratio, of course 4th 1:1. Leaves trans sprocket and rear sprocket to diddle happiest compromise. I Dislike rev-ing an engine, much prefer pure lugging power.
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- Oct 12, 2009
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- 450
Folks
It's true that you don't need three sleeve-gear bushings to get proper support--my tired old mainshaft has a couple of hundred thousand miles on it and is slightly undersized in that area from minor mishaps--it needs all the support it can get.
Regarding the circlip issue, the clutch center's lands and grooves lock up solidly on the mainshaft two or three millimeters inboard of the normal setup if the circlip is removed. I don't shim the clutch basket but use various engine sprockets with slightly different tapers to line things up close enough for government work. With a decent clutch bearing there's practically zero clutch-basket wobble, and there's adequate clearance on my inner primary for the sprockets, chain and sleeve-gear nose to whirl around without interference.
I've found that as long as the chain is on the loose side the primary drive is practically bulletproof. Properly set up, the gearbox and the primary will stand up to whatever reasonable abuse a Combat engine or an RH10 850 can dish out. As a kid fixing up Brit bikes in Africa in the '60's I can tell you we would have started a cargo cult if a Commando had somehow breached the Biafran War embargo. It's not perfect-- but it's close.
Tim Kraakevik
kraakevik@voyager.net
Three Commandos
It's true that you don't need three sleeve-gear bushings to get proper support--my tired old mainshaft has a couple of hundred thousand miles on it and is slightly undersized in that area from minor mishaps--it needs all the support it can get.
Regarding the circlip issue, the clutch center's lands and grooves lock up solidly on the mainshaft two or three millimeters inboard of the normal setup if the circlip is removed. I don't shim the clutch basket but use various engine sprockets with slightly different tapers to line things up close enough for government work. With a decent clutch bearing there's practically zero clutch-basket wobble, and there's adequate clearance on my inner primary for the sprockets, chain and sleeve-gear nose to whirl around without interference.
I've found that as long as the chain is on the loose side the primary drive is practically bulletproof. Properly set up, the gearbox and the primary will stand up to whatever reasonable abuse a Combat engine or an RH10 850 can dish out. As a kid fixing up Brit bikes in Africa in the '60's I can tell you we would have started a cargo cult if a Commando had somehow breached the Biafran War embargo. It's not perfect-- but it's close.
Tim Kraakevik
kraakevik@voyager.net
Three Commandos
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