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1979 T140E into Rickman

Discussion in 'Triumph (Classic)' started by mudplugger, Jan 21, 2016.

  1. grandpaul

    grandpaul VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2008
    Looking forward to more pix!

    The Rita is a great ignition, Boyer not so much.

    I have an expensive nightmare to deal with due to a Boyer ignition. "against my better judgement", and at the client's request...
     
  2. mudplugger

    mudplugger

    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2011
    pics on computer, just need to minimize and load onto bucket to upload.
     
  3. mudplugger

    mudplugger

    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2011
  4. mudplugger

    mudplugger

    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2011
    cant wait to try and start the engine, along way off yet, never get over the buzz of that first start, this is my first build like this so nervous times ahead. forks were rebuilt next, then onto brake caliper and disc being drilled. the triple clamps were designed and then I had a 6 month wait for the company to make them. :evil: The rear wheel hub was a right mess but with a lot of work it has come out really well, I drilled it to look like the manx version and made a plate to seal the inside brake shoes, matching the brake plate and correct spindles and cam was a nightmare, so bushes were made, new rims were bought and slightly larger spokes used, a local wheel builder has made a great job putting it all together, it took me some nervous time to get the offset but I am now happy that it is right. more pics coming. cheers for now Neil
     
  5. mudplugger

    mudplugger

    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2011
  6. mudplugger

    mudplugger

    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2011
    Side panels are now made as I didn't really take to the ones supplied with the frame kit, Tank is finished, slight problem with the bolt stem on the frame off centre,, exhausts are in progress. clocks ordered, as are shocks, head light and now trying to source a nice mud guard/fender for the front, I know what I want but struggling to find so need to check out a couple of options found on line
     
  7. grandpaul

    grandpaul VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2008
    Looks like you could have it running in time for the TriumphRat.Net "Most Improved" contest...
     
  8. mudplugger

    mudplugger

    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2011
    would be nice, but I think it will be too much as I have to wire it, which is not a problem other than I don't know all the technical bits that I need. it could be at least another week before I get it back from the fabricators.
     
  9. mudplugger

    mudplugger

    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2011
    finally finished the build, a few niggly problems to sort out with the engine, I have ridden it round the block and it feels great. it has been a great experience, and once the few problems are sorted I really look forward to getting out on the road.
    [​IMG]
    originally the tank and side panels were to be black, I like the look of the satin finish to the ally so went with that.
    the clocks are digital and are not calibrated yet, I have been having problems programming them. they were painted white faced specially for me and are now available
    [​IMG]
    the wiring was a pain for me, first time, but would find it easier next time.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  10. trident sam

    trident sam

    Joined:
    Oct 23, 2012
    You've done a great job mate
    well done !

    sam
     
  11. grandpaul

    grandpaul VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2008
    That's a nifty classic dual sport!

    You can be certain you will never be parked next to another one that looks just like it.
     
  12. mudplugger

    mudplugger

    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2011
    i am very happy with it, but I have to pull the engine out. it is blowing out white smoke and smells of oil when shutting off, and the oil pressure seems to stay at 20lb or just below. all part of the process I suppose, I have probably made a silly error somewhere as the engine was completely re conditioned, need to find some time soon to get it apart. tanks for the nice comments.
     
  13. Fast Eddie

    Fast Eddie VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2013
    White smoke? Burning oil is normally more like blue smoke.

    If it's smoking on shut off (or over run) it's likely to be valve guide related, or possibly bore / ring related. But it could just be the fact that you've got freshly honed barrels etc? It may bed in.

    Ref oil pressure, first things first, are you sure your gauge is good? If yes, most likely cause of poor pressure is a damaged or incorrectly installed crank oil seal. Second most likely is a dodgy oil pump. Both are a easy to get at without pulling the whole motor.

    Hope it turns out relatively painless!
     
  14. auldblue

    auldblue VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2012

    Hi,

    I agree with Nigel on this occasion , no need for drastic action yet. If your concerned about bores etc , check your compression. When I did my c'do 750 I had the white smoke , valve stem oil seals popped off no big wow .
    Sit back , admire the bike have cig , coffee , cuppa or a wee dram guaranteed it will be an easy fix. Good luck

    Jg
     
  15. Britfan60

    Britfan60 VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2014
    I just stumbled upon this thread and read it in its entirety. I am amazed at the beauty and potential you guys find in what I would have probably thrown in the dumpster. I have a nice condition T140D that could use some freshening up. Havent started her in two years. Thanks for the inspiration. Your Matisse is awesome and its progress was a great way to pass some time. Good luck with it. If you ever get a chance to weigh it, I'm curious of its weight and performance. Thanks
     
  16. mudplugger

    mudplugger

    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2011
    cheers for the advice lads. it has new valves, guides and springs etc, mushroom adjusters. The bores were good so were only honed, pistons were new so only had new rings. oil pump was overhauled and all seemed good. I have took the pressure relief Vv out but not sure how that works, has a spring, 2 holes in a recess in the thread but both were blocked, I assume these clear when pressure builds. I will remove side covers and investigate your suggestions.
    I also love a wee dram, I have a nice selection for different moods and occasions, I will have a small one before I start.
     
  17. mudplugger

    mudplugger

    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2011
    I had intended to put a lot more on this thread, photos and work reports, but I have had a very busy and stressful time between the work on the bike over the last 18 months or so. glad it has inspired you, I have really enjoyed the task and learnt a lot, this forum has always given advice and encouragement. get some pics of your bike on here and start the ball rolling, these bikes are very quick and exceptional handling, it feels lighter than my P11, it must be a close call. All the bits are available in the UK, I bought the front brake master cylinder from the states, it is a Nissin, I could do with a shorter lever as the original sticks out past the bar end. I will follow up with all my findings ASAP. cheers for now
     
  18. mudplugger

    mudplugger

    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2011
    sorted oil pressure, stripped pump, pressure relief vv, checked seals etc. put it back together tried a new gauge, original gauge now fine.
    I have now had a few rides out, now sorting a few niggles. had quite a bad oil leak. main one now sorted, my fault, I left the neutral switch out. blanked it off now ok. I think the next one is coming from the primary chain adjusting bolt, not sure but process of elimination is in process. need to look through the Manuel in case I have missed an o ring or seal
    2 other concerns.
    I have had what I would call pre ignition, like years ago when engine was desperate for a decoke and carried on running when you switch off. it happened twice after 8 or 9 miles. I have felt as if it is running hot since my first start up.

    when I removed one of the pipes to fit a clamp I noticed a small pool of oil in the exhaust port. could this burn off in this fashion,

    I also thought I would strobe the timing, it appears to be a long way out with the strobe light, marks about 25-30mm before pointer. I doubt that the revs were up to suggested 3500rpmas stated in book. I checked static again today and it was all but spot on as per boyer instructions. could this also contribute to pre ignition.

    I have read things suggesting different timing. any suggestions or advice welcome.

    the bike rides really well, just need to sort this to gain the trust. cheers Neil
     
  19. L.A.B.

    L.A.B. Moderator VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2004

    The 'book' information (for standard T140E Lucas Rita ignition with 5PU pickup) doesn't apply, as the Boyer won't reach full advance until somewhere approaching 5000 RPM (see Boyer instructions, below).



    You cannot set the Boyer accurately by static timing, or at least, you can't rely on the static setting being absolutely accurate. The final check (and probably final adjustment) needs to be done with the strobe as the static setting is only intended to get the timing near enough so the engine can be started and no matter how accurately you try to static time the Boyer it could still be several degrees out.

    http://www.boyerbransden.com/pdf/KIT00052.pdf

     
  20. grandpaul

    grandpaul VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2008
    Time for a "before & after" photo!

    Did you check the head's valve guide bore diameters against spec, to be sure that's not where the oil in migrating into the combustion chamber(s)?

    That's a common wear point on the 500s.

    Sure is a smart looking mount.
     

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