1975 Rev problems

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I’ve got a problem with my brothers Norton 1975 commando 850. I just got her running after a few years and the main thing is I can get her idling fine but then when I start riding and rev up to 2000rpm and above she starts wavering in power, not sure if that’s misfiring but she definitely won’t ride well trying to get some speed.

Any suggestions on what to look for?

Thanks
 
Sounds like you have a problem with the needles and needle jets. If the needles are set too low, you will usually get a cough or a flat spot as you wind the throttle on. If they are set too high, the bike will become a bit sluggish. If you lower the needles until you get the cough, then raise them one notch, you might get a better result.
If your motor coughs or misfires when you ride the bike, stop immediately and correct the problem.
 
Was the carbs pulled down and a good clean out if sitting pilot jet could be blocked with stale fuel crud.
 
I’ve got a problem with my brothers Norton 1975 commando 850. I just got her running after a few years and the main thing is I can get her idling fine but then when I start riding and rev up to 2000rpm and above she starts wavering in power, not sure if that’s misfiring but she definitely won’t ride well trying to get some speed.

Any suggestions on what to look for?

Thanks
Need more info
IE was it ok before?
Standard carburettors?
What ignition?
Any changes been made ? Etc etc
 
Still a good reason to clean the carbs if been sitting for sometime the OP didn't say if the carbs have been serviced at all so carbs or ignition.
 
My 850 has had a few issues off idle. First was a stumble or stall when trying to roll away from traffic stops. Turned out to be worn needle jet and or needle. Later, had cough/misfires happen about 1/3 to 1/2 throttle open, progressed to be more severe/frequent over a few hundred miles. Turned out one main jet was coming un-wound from carb body, which makes the whole needle to jet opening out of whack.
Very recently had hard starting, then later dips/loss of power while highway cruising. Turned out one carb manifold have become undone from head, insulator gasket shifted etc, so loads of un-metered air enter one cylinder. Check for any air leaks and ensure the rubber balancer tube on the inlet manifold spigots is well fitting, not leaking.
 
Did you drain old petrol out?
Have you fitted new spark plugs?
Renew those two first cause they are the easiest.
 
After it runs next, turn off the petcocks and pull the bowels over a nice piece of the bottom of a drinks plastic bottle, clear so you
can easily inspect that comes out. Catch it all you want to see if there is silt and most especially water, tiny water bits. Once you get that sorted open the throttle full and squirt a jet of carb cleaner with the little straw thingie up tight to the main jet orifice.
This will blast out any remaining particles and again any little bubble of water which can cling to the jet. Remove air screw and shoot jet in as well.
This may do but it really is better to pull and strip the carbs following the 'Bushman's' advise page. Might be good to put in new
needle jets. If you are short, skip the needled otherwise do both. I know, nothing Amal is inexpensive, I just bought 3 slides. :-(
 
If you have that dried tarnished fuel ,in the bowls , Methylated spirits is good for dissolving it . Cheers
 
My 850 has had a few issues off idle. First was a stumble or stall when trying to roll away from traffic stops. Turned out to be worn needle jet and or needle. Later, had cough/misfires happen about 1/3 to 1/2 throttle open, progressed to be more severe/frequent over a few hundred miles. Turned out one main jet was coming un-wound from carb body, which makes the whole needle to jet opening out of whack.
Very recently had hard starting, then later dips/loss of power while highway cruising. Turned out one carb manifold have become undone from head, insulator gasket shifted etc, so loads of un-metered air enter one cylinder. Check for any air leaks and ensure the rubber balancer tube on the inlet manifold spigots is well fitting, not leaking.
Many people are not aware that when you buy an old motorcycle, the first thing to change is the needle jet. My friend bought a very nice Yamaha RZ350. He searched the internet for new old stock needle jets and eventually found some. His bike now really flies. With Commandos, at least you can make the needle jets out of brass hex. Some Mikuni needle jets are extremely complex. The way I tune is extremely crude - I lower the needles until I get the cough, then raise them one notch. However, that does not tell me that I am using the correct taper needle. All I can do is try the same technique with different taper needles. The taper on the needles compensates for loss of vacuum in the inlet port. Bigger ports probably require more taper. It depends on how quick the throttle is opened. That is why I always feed my throttle on in a controlled fashion. - lean needles. You get more speed that way.
When you play with two-strokes, you learn this stuff. A Commando is really not much different.
 
OP, please tell us about your skillset. Your description is quite vague, we'll need more details.

"not sure if that’s misfiring but she definitely won’t ride well trying to get some speed."
 
This is a common problem with those unfamiliar with Amal chokes.
The cable needs to be pulled tight for the chokes to be open.
Exactly
I'm betting Eddie is right with his choke on diagnosis
I have seen this many times
 
I agree with Nigel. It is more likely to be a choke problem than one involving needle jets. With needle jets, you don't usually get a major problem, because the mixture is either only slightly richer or the motor coughs if it is too lean. Either way, you have a loss of performance, but the motor will still rev.
 
I agree with Nigel. It is more likely to be a choke problem than one involving needle jets. With needle jets, you don't usually get a major problem, because the mixture is either only slightly richer or the motor coughs if it is too lean. Either way, you have a loss of performance, but the motor will still rev.
Would it tick over with the choke slides fully down?
 
Would it tick over with the choke slides fully down?
My Mk III will idle with the chokes down for about 30 seconds and then they need to be pulled up. Never tried it with a hot engine but I doubt it would idle for long.
 
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