Hello everyone,Just purchased a completly original 9000 mile time capsule bike..been shed stored for 20 years..we are attempting to "bring it back to life".The tank is fiberglass with 20 yr old fuel in it...whats the procedure on that?I need A right side muffler..i see them on ebay..are they ok to use?Currently has no spark so will follow that circut..but does it need a battery to have spark?Need to rebuild amal carbs..I see numbers 932? 952?..i know these carbs are not prized....are there any tricks??Will need all carb lines replaced..where is a good place for parts?The motor is free but the clutch seems stuck as it will roll in any gear...all systems will need to be flushed..trans,brakes,clutch..etc..Just looking for a little help in getting started...thanks in advance..
1973 850 commando....
- Thread starter keso
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Danno said:
And a 73 850 should have come with a metal tank, so someone has done a swap....
Amals left standing always gum up in the jets and idle passages and in the float bowl
and maybe the fuel tubes and filters..
A really good clean or 6 should have it idling like new (!!),
or at least you'll be able to assess how worn they are.
A known good battery would help in testing/checking a bike thats been standing for years.
Don't forget that Commandos are POSITIVE EARTH, they hate having the battery wired in backwards...
Have fun !
An early 850 might have had a fibreglass tank, but somewhere in 1973 (I think it was ?) it was mandated that all fuel tanks had to be metal - or couldn't be fibreglass, not sure precisely how it was worded.
LAB (moderator) is the hexpert on this, will probably say, seems to have this stuff at his fingertips.
Glass tanks don't seem to like modern fuels, depends on where you live, even without ethanol.
Once you see the bubbles in the gelcoat, its shot. And no longer safe...
Examine carefully all the rubber components on your bike. Including the tyres.
It takes a very favourable climate to keep those all in good usable condition.
LAB (moderator) is the hexpert on this, will probably say, seems to have this stuff at his fingertips.
Glass tanks don't seem to like modern fuels, depends on where you live, even without ethanol.
Once you see the bubbles in the gelcoat, its shot. And no longer safe...
Examine carefully all the rubber components on your bike. Including the tyres.
It takes a very favourable climate to keep those all in good usable condition.
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keso said:
If it still has a (working) 2MC capacitor (see factory manual link below, section J24) and the original points ignition (as it's been laid up for 20 years?) then theoretically, it should spark/start without a battery.
http://www.classicbike.biz/Norton/Repai ... mmando.pdf
Rohan said:
Well, "should have", unless it's a Hi-Rider.
Rohan said:
Fibreglass tanks were banned from July 1973 (motorcycles manufactured for the UK market, existing F/G tanks were still legal to use).
N0rt0nelectr@
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Rohan said:
I bought a 73 Norton years ago for $500 because the owner had it set up for negative ground. I had to replace about 6 ft of ground wire and buy a new battery. Sold it a few years later for a lot more than I paid.
John in Texas
Ok,I have alot to learn!....SOOOO positive to ground..what a CONCEPT!...My skill set seems to be to aquire good deals..they seem to pile up..I can do some work but have a friend who does it all..he has the bike now..but its his first brit bike..so hes taking it slow..want to try and salvage the tank as its not leaking and has had gas in it for 20 years(caswell sealer?)..oil tank was nearly empty..cant get master cyl cap off..but not trying real hard..dont want to twist off the casting!I live in minnesota.....need parts like airbox,1 muffler,2 petcocks,1 amal bowl(broken at bottom hose,carb kits..tires,....where do you guys find the parts? ebay?...will get pics up when I review the procedure..where do I look to review pic procedure??.thanks all
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Congrats on the Commando!
Procedures for posting pics is at the top of the Topic page titled "Technical Information and How to Post Photos".
As for parts there does tend to be some on ebay but likely you will need some new parts from a parts dealer.
http://www.britcycle.com/
http://www.classicbritishspares.com
http://www.oldbritts.com/
https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop/
coloradonortonworks.com/catalog
http://www.norvilmotorcycle.co.uk/
http://www.walridge.com/catalogue/
I'm sure there is more. I have ordered parts from British Cycle and Walridge as they have shops in Canada, both have been excellent.
Cheers!
Procedures for posting pics is at the top of the Topic page titled "Technical Information and How to Post Photos".
As for parts there does tend to be some on ebay but likely you will need some new parts from a parts dealer.
http://www.britcycle.com/
http://www.classicbritishspares.com
http://www.oldbritts.com/
https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop/
coloradonortonworks.com/catalog
http://www.norvilmotorcycle.co.uk/
http://www.walridge.com/catalogue/
I'm sure there is more. I have ordered parts from British Cycle and Walridge as they have shops in Canada, both have been excellent.
Cheers!
keso said:
The oil will have drained down into the sump.
(Brit bikes do that !).
Be sure to drain it out before adding more oil to the oil tank.
Or you will have tooo much oil, and an unholy mess...
If its nice and clean you can add it back into the oil tank.
But after sitting 20 years, new oil would be a very good idea.
And a new filter (unscrew it from behind/under the gearbox).
Your pics need to get posted to one of the free photo hosting services,
like photobucket, and you just post the links here.
Mr. Rick
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I found the same type of bike several years ago, have a few suggestions:
Search this site to find out which supplier (one of the sources from India, I think) sells the best steel tank, and quit worrying about what kind of gunk is coming through the fuel lines and into the Very fine passages in the carbs. The tank is not very expensive, although the painting probably will not be cheap. If your sidecovers are in good shape, send all 3 to Vintage Vendor vintage-vendor.com where he can match your existing color, if that's what you want.. Or do a beautiful metalflake job!
Buy 2 new mufflers and don't worry about why one side is showing less back pressure. Get a recommendation from somebody here regarding which silencers are the better ones.
Get a brand new sealed battery.
Carbs are 932. 32mm. Plan to physically clean the pilot circuits. http://www.jba.bc.ca/Bushmans%20Carb%20Tuning.html
Positive ground, yes. Most ground wires are red on the original harness, I believe.
You will probably want to ditch the "points" ignition and the ballast resistors, and condensers, in favor of electronic ignition, unless you are devoted to spending a lot of time fiddling with the original system. The new systems are almost invisible, set and forget, very much an upgrade.
The original master cylinder is not a good match for the caliper, bored too large. Consider getting the one from Andover which looks exactly like stock and is sized correctly, or buy a sleeve kit from Don : http://www.tritonmotorcycleparts.com/29 ... line-store
My BAP petcocks have worked perfectly for years.
I dropped my stock air filter in favor of the K & N R-0990, got fed up scraping the paint off the frame every time I went in there.
I'm in California and use FAir Spares for parts. Phil is a genuine expert and always takes the time to help or explain things.
Hope you have as much fun, and get as much satisfaction, as I have over the years!
Search this site to find out which supplier (one of the sources from India, I think) sells the best steel tank, and quit worrying about what kind of gunk is coming through the fuel lines and into the Very fine passages in the carbs. The tank is not very expensive, although the painting probably will not be cheap. If your sidecovers are in good shape, send all 3 to Vintage Vendor vintage-vendor.com where he can match your existing color, if that's what you want.. Or do a beautiful metalflake job!
Buy 2 new mufflers and don't worry about why one side is showing less back pressure. Get a recommendation from somebody here regarding which silencers are the better ones.
Get a brand new sealed battery.
Carbs are 932. 32mm. Plan to physically clean the pilot circuits. http://www.jba.bc.ca/Bushmans%20Carb%20Tuning.html
Positive ground, yes. Most ground wires are red on the original harness, I believe.
You will probably want to ditch the "points" ignition and the ballast resistors, and condensers, in favor of electronic ignition, unless you are devoted to spending a lot of time fiddling with the original system. The new systems are almost invisible, set and forget, very much an upgrade.
The original master cylinder is not a good match for the caliper, bored too large. Consider getting the one from Andover which looks exactly like stock and is sized correctly, or buy a sleeve kit from Don : http://www.tritonmotorcycleparts.com/29 ... line-store
My BAP petcocks have worked perfectly for years.
I dropped my stock air filter in favor of the K & N R-0990, got fed up scraping the paint off the frame every time I went in there.
I'm in California and use FAir Spares for parts. Phil is a genuine expert and always takes the time to help or explain things.
Hope you have as much fun, and get as much satisfaction, as I have over the years!
thanks, for the replies...i am still waiting on a few parts...and was wondering..my bike is a 1973 850 commando...whats the difference between interstates...roadsters...was there ever a super commando?..I remember hearing about it in my youth...I will get pics up but the bike is sitting for now as we get parts...Still looking for a stock airbox and cleaner..where to purchase the fuel line...is it worth it to upgrade the floats and needles?
keso said:
The 850 Roadsters and Interstates are all the same - mechanically - underneath.
For the Mk1 850 and Mk 2 850 anyway. The Interstates had low flat mounted mufflers,
which many owners have since replaced with upswept peashooters.
However, there was a quieter version of these, the Mk1A and the Mk 2A, that had plastic airboxes and
blackcap mufflers. These were made alongside the 850 Mk 1 and then Mk 2 models.
The quieter ones are supposed to be a bit slower than versions with the tweety/whistler mufflers.
keso said:
Yes and no. No for the 850 Commandos anyway.
For the earlier 750 models, for 1972 ONLY there was the Combat 750 version.
It had a hotter (Combat) cam and 32 mm carbs, and a claimed 65hp over the stock 60 hp.
And a disk front brake.
Note that this seems to be marketing hp, it was more like ~46 or 47 hp v's ~42 hp at the back wheel.
The Combats were the ones where the engine/crankshaft/main bearings/gearbox grenaded in
a few thousand miles !!!
And led to a LOT of warranty claims, mucho dollars down the drain for Norton. And egg on face.
Back to the stock cam for all later 1972 750s, and for ALL 850 models.
And fitting famous FAG 'Superblend' bearings for long crankshaft life.
However, the factory issued several tuning sheets for 850 owners to make their own Combat 850 version,
although owners are encouraged to try the stock 850 version first, its pretty strong and torquey
in the engine dept, whereas the Combat cam makes it somewhat revvy - and possibly fragile ??
A crowd called Drouin also made a supercharger kit for Commandos.
Ditto the remarks about becoming fragile, although several survive even amongst members of this forum.
Must be very gentle with the wrist ???
hth.
Mr. Rick
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Fuel lines go from $60 to $80. P/N is 06-5192 Here's one on eBay, although I'd recommend using one of the vendors mentioned earlier by Ekvin:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Norton-Commando ... wR&vxp=mtr
With only 9000 miles the floats and needles should be okay, but the whole carb will need to be cleaned out. I had a float with a hole in it once, but that's pretty easy to check.
A couple of sets like this would certainly not hurt:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMAL-CONCENTRIC ... ve&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Norton-Commando ... wR&vxp=mtr
With only 9000 miles the floats and needles should be okay, but the whole carb will need to be cleaned out. I had a float with a hole in it once, but that's pretty easy to check.
A couple of sets like this would certainly not hurt:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMAL-CONCENTRIC ... ve&vxp=mtr
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It's easy enough to fit a roadster tank onto an Intertate. Emgo make a decent roadster tank, but as far as I know don't make an interstate tank.
You will have to bite the bullet and replace the tank, fiberglass and modern fuel does not mix and sealing a used fiberglass tank is a crapshoot.
You will have to bite the bullet and replace the tank, fiberglass and modern fuel does not mix and sealing a used fiberglass tank is a crapshoot.
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