1972 Fastback Combat Going Good

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Dec 14, 2013
Messages
397
Country flag
Hi All
Have now run the Norton at two rallies since getting it going, one over 6 days at Bathurst and two days at our Heart of the Hunter (NSW) in Australia this weekend, distance travelled around 750 miles.
Problems uncounted were
Too noisy :oops: , small oil leak on one rocker spindle, lower gearbox bolt both nuts lost and stud damaged, also had uneasy weave at around 80 mph, kick starter rubbing on exhaust and hitting my leg. Power not so good until around 4000 to 4500 and then it is away, unfortunately definitely breaking the law at this speed.
Need to find better mufflers otherwise might lose hearing or be knocked off by other annoyed riders.
Fixed the oil leak, and gearbox bolt by replacing with the bolt out of my 1963 650SS project, pumped tyres up to, 34 front 36 PSI rear, no weave from there not at least 90 mph, purchased a new kick starter from RGM UK that gave more leverage and better exhaust clearance.
The bike was basically complete when I bought it but was in bad repair, work done was.
Purchased second hand cylinders as bores damaged and cylinder spigots damaged/missing beyond repair, second hand cylinders were bored oversize for 60 thou + pistons so had to purchase a set of EMRGO + 0.080 pistons and bore to suit, new cam followers fitted.
Head new valves, guides, valve stem oil seals, and valve springs.
Two missing fins below right hand spark plug replaced with fins cut from a Honda cylinder head and blended in.
Oil pressure was good 55PSI at 2000 rev/min and 25PSI at idle when hot so left the bottom end as is, although since running there are leaks in the case joints.
Fitted new vernier adjustable ISO mounts.
Rewired and fitted 200 watt alternator and electronic regulator, also fitted a new TRISPARK ignition (how easy was that), the original points, points plate and auto advance were missing.
Resleeved the master cylinder to 13mm and rebuilt the caliper, brakes are improving but most likely need a new disc.
The rear rim was rusted through so ordered a set of SS rims and spokes, only replaced the rear rim so far as the front was not so bad, and needed to have running for the rallies.
Carbies were totally worn out, I have never seen such wear in the slides and bore, so purchased a new set of AMAL Premium 32mm Concentrics, these have performed perfectly to date.
Rebuilt the front end using progressive springs, need to do more work here as they bottom out too easily.
These were the main issues, but as you would know there was a heap of other jobs to do over a 5 month period.
The rides, run in was for about 50 to 70 miles and then it was on, sort of without being over the top.
Handling, well with lower tyre pressures not so good, but once tyre pressures increased as good as one would expect from a 1972 Brit bike :D , I loved it, so easy to turn in compared to my ZX10, ZZ1100 and Suzuki GT750s, brakes not so good though :shock: .
Best Regards
Burgs
 
Burgs said:
second hand cylinders were bored oversize for 60 thou + pistons so had to purchase a set of EMRGO + 0.080 pistons and bore to suit, new cam followers fitted.
Head new valves, guides, valve stem oil seals, and valve springs.

Excellent. :D
Can I ask who did the re bore etc ?
 
Dr Mak in Maitland did the rebore which is not a big issue as regards who does the job, but I insisted on sticking to the OEM specification as to clearances as I believe people get carried away with clearances (too tight, too loose modern fuels etc), and seizures, my belief is something else is wrong ie fuel, timing etc, until I have a problem with one of my bikes I will stick to this theory.
Most of the parts came from RGM in England, their postage and service is excellent, order Sunday (AUS) and have parts delivered Thursday or Friday. I believe the same is for Norvil and Andover Norton? On the other hand I have ordered parts from Aus and haven't received for a week or so and price no difference really, I do know they are offering a service to us in Aus, but the parts should really be delivered in a couple of days?

On another front, It is great :D to be back on a Norton as they have a feeling all of their own.
I have three Nortons, a 1955 Manx, 1963 650SS and the 1972 Combat.
Regards
Burgs
 
Does your '72 combat look similar to this?

1972 Fastback Combat Going Good
 
.060 over is considered risky for meat left so keep eye on cracks in barrel fin valleys. Might want to try a bit lower AMC sprocket though 19T is pretty good to have rpm enough in all gears to please you. Sounds like oid tire set issue bother at speed but i too definitely notice how nice and light the handling gets with hi air pressure and would run more like you but for the off road roughness. As no longer full faith Commando might serious consider a rod link headsteady as even land speeders say no problemo no matter how fast straight ahead. I didn't know there was a factory clearance for .080" over and engine calculators say to add some clearance as bore size goes up. Likely a non issue if warmed up before nailing it hard. Both my Combats get living after 4000 and pull harder till about 6800 then like another piston kicks in but then runing out of rpm especially with larger pistons mass.
 
Hi David
looks very similar, but I still have some work to do such as a professional paint job, plus front rim and spokes. front tyre is also of unknown vintage that I will replace when I fit the new rim.
1972 Fastback Combat Going Good
.
Hobot had a bit of a measure around the cylinders before going ahead with 0.080" piston so fingers crossed, I will keep my eyes open for another set just in case.
Mark
 
Alrighty Mark, my buddy and me are on .040 over pistons and jugs and we suffer from desert grit that eat rings/bore about once per 8000 miles so hope your's lasts a long time so we can follow your practical inexpensive path to use up tires and chains instead of engine parts so fast. Just occurred to me one reason I like to ride clunker Commando's over appliance like moderns is Cdo set pilot lower so feels safer.
 
hobot said:
Just occurred to me one reason I like to ride clunker Commando's over appliance like moderns is Cdo set pilot lower so feels safer.
"Hijack alert"
Commando's, among others of the like, ride like motorcycles. New bikes ride like bicycles being either slung out like on a 10 speed or upright wearing a derby. IMHO
 
Burgs said:
Hi David
looks very similar, but I still have some work to do such as a professional paint job, plus front rim and spokes. front tyre is also of unknown vintage that I will replace when I fit the new rim.
1972 Fastback Combat Going Good
.
Hobot had a bit of a measure around the cylinders before going ahead with 0.080" piston so fingers crossed, I will keep my eyes open for another set just in case.
Mark

The paint looks great in the photo. :) Norton signal red is hard to match. On another string in this forum it was suggested Volkwagen Tornado Red is close. Just had a roadster tank and side covers painted in this color, but went with the painters color recommendation. Close but still not quite matching the original fiberglass parts color.
 
I tried a 350 smoke TD or RD MX type bike on trails and pasture when Peel first got all together triple linked hobot's Roadholders to find it set too tall and stiff with hi CoG it bounced me too much this way and that to really have fun so got back on Peel much to amazement of the trial and dirt bike riders to leave them to their beaten paths and take off into head high brush surprising shit out of bedded down deer and not feel like I was on a uneven leg bar stool with a loose seat. On Peel I fell over of course hitting unseen stumps or hi centering hang ups but didn't get thrown down as far so didn't hurt me or Peel to try it again harder and get past hang ups of clearance and my own fears learning curves. Main danger doing really raw off road is ya can't see limbs pointing at ya like spears, which I've had hit levers or stands to operate them w/o me and take me down but so far not impaled myself on em. Combats has plenty of low down grunt control to tackle wild steep loose stuff yet not just spin right out on ya. Tire texture is main thing limiting Cdo off pavement.
 
When I was 18 and fresh out of HS, my mate and I went in half on a 66 Spitfire Mk2. Not in as good shape as this was, but same color. We would take out the passenger seat and haul four in it - before seatbelt laws. :lol:

1972 Fastback Combat Going Good



Came out one morning to discover the hood up and someone had stolen the battery, distributor, and half the vacuum system. :evil:
 
Burgs

Enjoyed the read. Nice bike.
However "since running there are leaks in the case joints." makes me wonder about excessive crankcase presssure.
Your list of work doesn't include adding a reed valve in the crankcase vent line.
If working properly it creates a slight vacuum in the crankcase which has stopped a lot of people's oil leaks.
If not you may want to look at a number of threads on this site under "reed valves".
There are a number of suggested ones with maybe the Mikes SX650 Yamaha one the most popular and cheap, which I use.
 
Hi RX7171
I haven't touched the breather as yet, my belief is that the engineers did a fair bit of testing in the first place so should not be too far off the mark as to crankcase breathing. From there I need to test and see for myself, not saying us engineers get things wrong from time to time :oops:.

I have read the various threads on breathers and there is still conflicting evidence so nothing definitive in my opinion. But still have open mind to possible cause of high crank case pressure and how to cure it. Slight negative pressure would be good.

The crankcase is already leaking so I will need to strip it down and reseal it, this will be the time to look deeper into the breather.

As yet I also haven't fitted a new crankshaft seal, but intend doing so as I believe the chain case is pressurising, (I am seeing a smear of oil on the front of the chain case after a hard run of around 60 miles) but it might just be distortion from the welding up of the holes from the foot rest damage on the outer case.

Biggest issue at the moment is the noise, the mufflers are SS replicas that seem to be too small in diameter compared to other Nortons I have seen, would have been great 40 odd years ago but I need my license now!

Thanks for the comments.
Best Regards
Mark
 
Hi
Having had a bit of time to think about the breathers and note that there are no leaks since wiping the oil off after a run , some of the problem may very well be the problem.
Regards
Burgs
 
You might want to recheck your ignition timing. My 72 with Pazon ignition pulls like a freight train all the way to redline with only a single 32mm Mikuni. I've got a 20 tooth up front. Mine was a dog until I got the timing spot on........PhillySkip
 
Burgs said:
Hi
Having had a bit of time to think about the breathers and note that there are no leaks since wiping the oil off after a run , some of the problem may very well be the problem.
Regards
Burgs

So the leaks show only while running possibly because of excessive crankcase pressure.
Brings us back to maybe needs a reed valve.
 
Hi
Phillyskip timing is spot on the original specs, I am about to change the gearing as the revs are too high when running at legal speeds, still runs 19T gearbox sprocket. I am not that heavy so I still expect it should accelerate ok. After all it has gears when I need to up the anti :shock: .
Burgs
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top