1970 Commando

Agreed, no chance in hell I'm getting it back togetherset anywhere near where it might have been on the bench.
That video only confirmed my suspicion of being a bitch to get back in.
 
I used some gentle persuasion with a 2x4 between the down tubes.

Had this idea earlier but was afraid of potentially bending the tubes. Just gave it a shot and got the mount back in. Everything seems ok. Now for the rear....
 
Any advice on getting a stuck fork collar free? Had luck with a strap wrench and heat on one, second one is not budging. Same goes on the rear isolastic, running into trouble knocking the long pin free.

Obnoxious things to get hung up on.
Anyway, here's a photo just for the hell of it.

1970 Commando
 
Any advice on getting a stuck fork collar free? Had luck with a strap wrench and heat on one, second one is not budging. Same goes on the rear isolastic, running into trouble knocking the long pin free. Obnoxious things to get hung up on.

so what fork collar is not budging?

the rear iso long bolt can be a bitch, you want to get some spray lubricant in, although it won't help much because the long bolt is seized on the inside iso tubes. cut the old rubber boots off.

what i did was to install the nuts back on the the ends of the rod and thread them on until the won't go any further by hand (usually when the nylon lock material gets in the way). the get a BFH (big f<<>ing hammer) and wail on it. you need to hit the nuts really square. a second set of hands can hold a 2x4....

alternatively if you have the right connections a hyd press might do it to
 
Not the fork tube itself, the collar that threads into the lower fork tube above the seal and bushing. Aluminum on aluminum, toughest frozen thread I've ever come across.

Will cut away the boots and soak with PB.
 
The other way to do it without hitting it with a BFH, is to use a bar clamp. you put a deep socket over one nut, then unscrew the other nut so it protects the threads on the end of the pin. The you get the clamp on the nut and the deep socket and torque it up good. The deep socket allows the pin and nut to move once the rusted pin breaks free. Once it's broken free, it's just a matter of jiggling it free past the corroded old isolastics.

This is the cabinetmaker solution,... Those bar clamps are very powerful.
 
ahhhh ok, I thought 850commando was talking about the triple tree.

Ok guys, thanks I'll try that out. Starting to realize the BFH method works with alot of things on these bikes. Very clever Frank.

Trying to work from the front back, fork collar issue slowing me down.
 
okay now i understand the fork collar problem.... but the original factory collars were steel and always looked like some PO used a pipe wrench on them. You would need to mount the fork lower in a vise. i would remove the fender studs then wrap it with padding to protect the aluminum housing. heat the housing but not the collar. application of torque (ie. a pipe wrench) may be required, since the factory never provide any other option. clubman racing sells replacement collars which have a hex shape.

if all else fails you may consider grinding some flats to allow the use of a large wrench.

lastly when you put it back together use some never-seize on the threads... after cleaning.

Frank must have some very fancy cabinet clamps, mine are way to old and slip :(, unless i am just pulling some plywood in line to set glue...
 
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Rear isolastics out, PB did it's job. Waiting on clutch puller tool to remove primary covers to instal verniers.
Still deciding on options with collars, choking up on the tube yielded no results. Don't want to grind away at it, may bring it to machine shop or something later today.

So, in my somewhat stalled out state I started investigation colors, this model was numbered a roadster but sold as an S and has flat blue original paint on the inside side covers. Bike had been painted purple in the late 70s, previous owner had the blue matched and bike repainted before I bought it from him.
Anyone seen a blue like this before? First photo (which appears a bit greenish) is believed to be original paint that was matched for the second photo.

1970 Commando


1970 Commando
 
For the long stud holding the rear isolastic in place I built a long threaded rod with a coupling nut on it run thru a piece of pipe. Put a large washer and another nut on top of the pipe end. Start tightening and it will pull the long stud out. You can use the same tool to pull the swing arm pin you don't need the coupling nut for this application.

John in Texas
 
Update for those interested, may be of use for those attempting their own restorations, the rest of you, bear with me.

Rebuilt and installed forks, replaced steering stem bearings, need to sort out a weak steering stop/lower triple tree divet.
Brake pads replaced, oil lines replaced, oil tank cleaned.

Rear isolastics replaced with engine in, primary case on. Pain in the ass, especially with the bike on a dolly but it can be done. As long as you can manipulate the frame and engine independently you can create clearance. An extra set of hands is necessary unless you are a master of the scissor jack(s).

Begand drilling holes for the Kegler clamps but my bits were not up to task. Saved for another day.

Wiring and hardware in place for Pazon. In hindsight I should have done a custom harness as advised. Pazon eliminates 25-30% of any stock wiring harness.
Something to note as well, not sure if this makes a difference between years but when installing a mk3 box headsteady, space for wiring/coils is limited, keep this in mind. Thanks to o0norton0o(Frank) for sending me his headsteady.

Will work to install a hidden safety/kill switch that can disable the bike when not being ridden.

Looking towards tires now so I can get the bike back on the ground. I have ridden Avon RR before but currently have K70s on both of my other bikes. The RR were great tires, modern feeling and aggressive while the K70s have a great look and perform well for casual riding, interested to hear what you guys ride with.

Will be away from the bike for a week or two, trying to gather some info in the meantime.

Thanks to those who took the time to read and respond. I know this reads like a check list but it helps keep my progress in order and I really appreciate the feedback from everyone. I'm just another guy wrestling with an old motorcycle in a basement.

Thoughts on the paint are also greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Obligatory photo.

1970 Commando
 
Paint: My Fireflake royalblue panels also had plain blue paint on the inside but a darker shade. I guess yours have been painted inside and outside.
It is no stock Commando paint from that era, I guess.
A speedy rebuild anyway!
 
That vestigial magneto blanking plate is a great place to mount a one-way reed valve crankcase breather.
 
I've got a blanking plate on back order, bought a breather but forgot to check the OD and it's a bit large for the proper oil hose. Need to source another.

Not my bike but a flat blue commando possibly painted to match the side pannel inside color.

1970 Commando
 
Anyone have an OD and ID on the bronze kickstart shaft bush, or the proper size tap for pulling it out? Don't have the piece on hand or I'd measure myself.
Thank you all
 
I used a blind hole bearing puller and a lot of heat on the shaft. The tap I used did not work at all. It was not easy.

1970 Commando
 
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