1970 Commando

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Pazon Ignitions. Electronic ignition systems for classic motorcycles, digital & analogue, Triumph, Bsa, Norton, Enfield, Velocette, Vincent & more.
www.pazon.com www.pazon.com

"Sure-Fire British Unit Twin (Triumph/BSA/Norton) 12 Volt

What motorcycles does it fit?
Triumph/Bsa Twin Cylinder Motorcycles with 12 Volt electrics (positive or negative earth)
& points in the side casing, including:
Triumph Bonneville/Tiger/T100/110/120/140/140V/140E
BSA A50/A65
NORTON Commando 750/850 / NORTON Atlas
Enfield Interceptor"
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks for clearing that up for me gentlemen. Seems I got my 6 and 12v wires crossed...

Frank- got your headsteady the other day. Thanks again. Will order a 12v now.
 
Test the Pazon ignition before you set the timing etc. I recently had a faulty ignition module from Nortonmotors/ Andover Norton.
It produced no spark. Joe Seifert replaced it with no hassle.
When the Ignition is connected to the coils and wiring harness and you have power,
take the two trigger wires (Yellow-Black and White-Black), touch together and open, approximately once per second.
Each time you make and break these wires there should be a spark at the plugs.
 
Regarding the crankcase blanking plate breather, will any reed valve work? I have a few small ones on hand. Just covering my bases before assembling something completely useless.

Also- need anything special to get the forks apart, rebuilt and back together? Tools etc?

Thanks
 
It's hard to say if the reed valves you presently have will work well or not... unless someone has actually used them. I've done the timing side blanking plate modification. I bought a flat timing side blanking plate from oldbritts to replace the stock dished shaped plate because it probably wasn't flat enough to mount a breather on. Here's a link to that thread:

https://www.accessnorton.com/NortonCommando/mounting-mikes-xs-reed-breather.19453/#post-290695

I left my stock camshaft breather operational, and this year I mounted a Jim schmidt reed breather on the port because the reed breather is more efficient at stopping the backflow of air at that port making it more efficient. I don't think the spinning disc seals all that well, so the reed valve helps it seal. The 2 breathers working together on either side of the crankcase do a great job of negating any oil leaking out of my bike, which is pretty much a problem with parallel twin engines with 360 degree crankshafts.
 
Frank, I have read your post on the matter, along with several others, several times! Won't be drilling into the cases, too bold for my blood right now. Be back with more questions soon and probably more photos. Thanks all.
 
Part of our problem as '70 owners is that the Jim Comstock sump plug breather which replaces the crankcase drain bolt, doesn't fit on our bikes because our bike's have a frame member blocking it's use. You can still do the timing side breather without drilling any holes since there are already some holes in to the timing chest from the crankcase. With less holes, you'll just have a less efficient system. If I was you, I would do the timing side breather and also add the Jim Schmidt breather to the camshaft port. I felt it boosted the efficiency of my breather system once I added it to my existing timing side breather.
 
Ah right, I completely forgot about the JS breather. You have both installed on your bike? No pricing on his site, do you happen to know off hand what he charges?
 
1970 Commando
NPeteN said:
Ah right, I completely forgot about the JS breather. You have both installed on your bike? No pricing on his site, do you happen to know off hand what he charges?
Click to expand...
 
rivera said:
Test the Pazon ignition before you set the timing etc. ...
take the two trigger wires (Yellow-Black and White-Black), touch together and open, approximately once per second.
Each time you make and break these wires there should be a spark at the plugs.
Click to expand...

You can easily test this by simply turning your ignition switch on and off repeatedly. Should get a spark each time.
 
Christmas came early from AN so I have an overwhelming amount if work in front of me. Going to be a fun week, any tricks for getting the front isolatic mount back in? Will I need to spread the frame? It's TIGHT, should I be dropping it in from abover with the pipe removed overhead?

1970 Commando
jpeg uploading site
 
NPeteN said:
any tricks for getting the front isolatic mount back in? Will I need to spread the frame? It's TIGHT, should I be dropping it in from abover with the pipe removed overhead?
Click to expand...

It should go back the same way it came out?
 
I removed/reinstalled the front on my 75 MKIII. I had to remove the Headsteady and jack up the motor using a scissors jack under the crankcase. If you have the bike strapped done, loosen the rear straps a little. As you raise the motor, the engine/trans/swing arm will want to pivot down, raising the frame a little. Worked great for me.
 
L.A.B. said:
It should go back the same way it came out?
Click to expand...

That would be ideal yes, however the vernier system (which I'm sure you are familiar with) has threaded ends that protrude past the ends of the mount. The original isolastics were held in with only the long center bolt, allowing them to slide out individually once the bolt had been removed.
 
Have engine free and movable. S exhaust limiting lift. Will remove and try some more
 
NPeteN said:
That would be ideal yes, however the vernier system (which I'm sure you are familiar with) has threaded ends that protrude past the ends of the mount. The original isolastics were held in with only the long center bolt, allowing them to slide out individually once the bolt had been removed.
Click to expand...

Yes, that does make it more difficult although I can't recall my Mk3's mount taking much more than some gentle persuasion to replace.
Have you tried inserting the mount between the frame tubes lower down (where they are further apart) and then sliding it into position.
 
Yep, I've tried just about everything I can at this point. The exhaust nut ring is being penetrated at the moment. Hopefully removing the pipe will give me enough lift and clearance to slide the mount in from below.
In the mean time I'll continue battling with the fork collars.
 


I suggest you don't try setting the clearance before fitting as that makes it more difficult and by the time its in place the adjuster will probably have moved.
Tightening the through-bolt can also reduce the clearance, the instructions to "back off by two and a half holes to give a clearance of 10 thou" should not be relied upon so I recommend you set the clearance once the mount has been installed by inserting a feeler gauge and check at various stages as the through-bolt is tightened.
If the feeler becomes nipped then loosen the bolt and back off the vernier adjuster a little. Repeat until the feeler will slide freely with the bolt fully tightened.
 

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