1969 Fastback Rebuild

Rohan · Jul 11, 2011

http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp60 ... 011007.jpg

If you gently polish those rust marks on the mufflers with old well used stainless steel wool, and then oil them, you will probably find that those rust marks will totally disappear.

Most of the chrome on mufflers, and many motorcycles, is straight onto steel. Since chrome is slightly porous, any water/moisture can work its way down to the steel below, and some rust stains will bleed out. If you polish the stains off, the chrome is usually totally unmarked.

As long as the mufflers aren't rusted out from inside, of course !

Hopethishelps.

DogT · Jul 11, 2011

A lot of rust can come off with steel wool and WD40 or oil, but it really doesn't fix the problem and in humidity the rust will come back. If you have the bucks, and I'm sorry I didn't do it, I'd go for the light weight pistons and long rods from JS to reduce the vibrations.

Dave
69S

skipsoldbikes · Aug 7, 2011

Hi,
I noticed you have a '58 model 77. Tell me about it!
Skip Brolund

grandpaul · Aug 7, 2011

Is this project still moving slow?

jsouthard · Aug 29, 2011

She's still moving.... Slowly.

I'm waiting for the parts to come back from powder coating. So I can start rebuilding the front end and put the finished engine back in the frame. I'll post some pictures when i get it all back.

So far she's turned out to be really clean and had no real issues. I didn't had a single issue taking anything apart. I did get some of the shiny bits back from chroming this week. I'll post some pictures of these today. I spend about 3-4 nights a week on the road for work so it's hard to find the time and energy. Once i get the frame back i will be back in motion again though.

Unfortunately on the way home from a short ride my '74 died on me and the wiring harness had started on fire. So this week I'm trying to sort that out. Can't have nothing nice. Thanks for the interest! More pics soon!

jsouthard · Sep 17, 2011

Here's where i stand as of today;

Gas Tank, Oil Tank, Side Panel and Tail all at Brent's ( vintagevendor.com ) having the original Grenadier Red and Quicksilver paint work done along with the unique decals that were used only at the beginning of '69. Wheels are being rebuilt by Matt at CNW. WM2 rims with Avon Roadriders, new spokes and bearings. Can't wait to see the finished product!

Engine, both top and bottom end completely rebuilt and ready to install in the frame...

Frame and black bits have been sandblasted and are ready for powder coating. Should be done by now but the first place I took it their gun broke and the second place quoted me $900 for black powder coating... No thanks... Still in search of the someone who can get this done at a reasonable price. Once that's done we will be good to start the reassembly.

Lots of original chrome saved!

Should be moving faster once I get the powder coating done!

DogT · Sep 17, 2011

Don't forget to have the painter mask the engine mount areas from the powder coat. They should have plastic circles to mask for the studs/nuts. Looking good.

Dave
69S

cjandme · Sep 17, 2011

Old britts has a washer kit if I'm not mistaken, it has all the right size and placement for keeping the frame bare where it needs to be when powder coating. Cj

KSUWildcatFan · Sep 17, 2011

$900?! Jesus! Thank god I know someone who will sandblast and powdercoat my stuff for next to nothing. I think he quoted me $200 to sandblast and powdercoat my featherbed frame, iso cradle, and swingarm. $900 for just powdercoat on a frame seems completely nuts.

This bike is going to be gorgeous once finished, and you're going to be extremely happy with the paint.

Man, I love those fastbacks! Someday I'm going to have to pick one up...

-Jordan

DogT · Sep 17, 2011

A decent price at least in the Northern Virgina are is about $400USD. Forget the nuts/bolts/washers from the OB site, the painter should have plastic circles of all sizes and sheets you can cut out for anything you want to mask. I really don't understand the nut/bolt/washer idea because once the frame is blasted, you don't want to be putting new greasy items on the frame when it's powder coated, the oil will spoil the coating job.

Just my opinion

Dave
69S

jsouthard · Sep 18, 2011

Agreed.

I'll find somebody this week to knock out the powder coating (including prep). I have the CNW MKIII three iso kit on it's way as well so hopefully i will have the engine in the frame by next weekend. That should get the ball rolling pretty fast. Today is parts ordering day for the front end and brakes.

jsouthard · Oct 7, 2011

Check these out....

A couple unique things to look for; This one specific era of Commando had a different Norton font on the tank and side panel / oil tank. The C is farther from the ommando and is much larger than the regular decals. Also, the decal on the tank had a gold outline even on the red. Brent at http://www.vintage-vendor.com did a great job!

I had originally wanted to do British racing green but upon further inspection the original color was "Grenadier Red" tank and tail with "Quicksilver" side panel and oil tank. Had to go with the original.

jsouthard · Oct 7, 2011

Made a little progress tonight. Heading to Barber this weekend but my wheels and powder coated bits will be back at the house this week!

I took this week of from work to rest and spend some time on the bike. Hopefully all the parts will arrive so I can make some progress. Either way it's all starting to come together.

jbbudgor · Oct 9, 2011

I'm really excited to see this one back together Joe. I'm glad I was able to get those decals right for you. This is the first Fastback I've painted and hopefully not the last,a beautiful bike it will be!
Brent
The Vintage Vendor
www.vintage-vendor.com

jsouthard · Oct 10, 2011

DELETE.

DogT · Oct 10, 2011

Looking good. What do you mean they didn't do the prep? When I did mine, I masked or ground off the powder coat under any engine mount, transmission mount, iso mount and that included a 1/4" space where the iso tube caps mount, and any electrical connection. You will never get the iso tube caps on with the powder coat all the way to the edge. For sure you don't want that powder coat under the engine studs/nuts. That also gave me a good chassis ground through out the bike. I painted all the uncovered parts with enamel, can hardly see it.

Dave
69S

nortriubuell · Oct 10, 2011

Wow !!! Really lookin' good Joe. Good to hear so many forum members are having Brent do their paintwork too. ( He did a Fireflake Royal Blue for me that is just beautiful.)

Just curious, did you paint your cylinder barrell (and cases0 ... and what silver paint did you use ??? I'm really liking the silver on the jugs; ALL eight of the Cdo's I've had over the years ... had black cylinder barrells. Sure like the silver for my next one maybe ...

jsouthard · Oct 11, 2011

nortriubuell said:
Just curious, did you paint your cylinder barrell (and cases0 ... and what silver paint did you use ??? I'm really liking the silver on the jugs; ALL eight of the Cdo's I've had over the years ... had black cylinder barrells. Sure like the silver for my next one maybe ...

Thanks Nortriubuell,

I did paint the barrels. I used High Temp VHT silver. Looks pretty close to the original color and will hopefully hold up well. My other barrel were powder coated black as well so this was a bit of a experiment for me. I probably should have asked the group for their suggestions but the VHT Silver turned out pretty good regardless.

http://www.amazon.com/VHT-Temperature-E ... B005HQ41MU

jsouthard · Oct 11, 2011

DogT said:
Looking good. What do you mean they didn't do the prep? When I did mine, I masked or ground off the powder coat under any engine mount, transmission mount, iso mount and that included a 1/4" space where the iso tube caps mount, and any electrical connection. You will never get the iso tube caps on with the powder coat all the way to the edge. For sure you don't want that powder coat under the engine studs/nuts. That also gave me a good chassis ground through out the bike. I painted all the uncovered parts with enamel, can hardly see it.

Dave
69S

Thanks Dave. I was able to get the Rear Iso in the cradle with no issues and am using the CNW front MKIII Iso, so no issues their. I'm going to check the motor mounts to the motor before installing the cradle in the Frame.

Bernhard · Oct 11, 2011

Re: 1970 Fastback Rebuild

DogT said:
If it doesn't have a brace below the main tube in the front, yes, you need a new frame. There should be a triangular section in the front just below the fuel tank attached to the headstock about 3-4" below the main tube and it attaches back to the main tube about 18" back.

Dave
69S

Early commando frame did not have that support bar, whatever you do, please do NOT scrap this frame, there are people out there who would love to get hold of an early frame!

1969 Fastback Rebuild

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