1969 commando fastback
- Thread starter sean
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How about just getting a new tank with the right fiberglass?
fastback-steel-tanks-t15672.html
fastback-steel-tanks-t15672.html
concours
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Hi Sean, welcome. http://www.oldbritts.com is a great resource here in the states. If you fill in your profile, it'll be easier to know what is relevant for you.
Gidday Sean
to answer your post FAG or SKF or NTN. the bearing number is NJ306 E , E being the very important bit. do NOT use NJ 306. it does not have the carrying capacity of NJ306E. C3 seems all the go now so I suppose the full number is NJ306 E M C3.
these are bearing manufacturer's numbers, not Norton parts book numbers. go to any quality bearing retailer and they will know what these numbers are.
hope this helps
Bradley
to answer your post FAG or SKF or NTN. the bearing number is NJ306 E , E being the very important bit. do NOT use NJ 306. it does not have the carrying capacity of NJ306E. C3 seems all the go now so I suppose the full number is NJ306 E M C3.
these are bearing manufacturer's numbers, not Norton parts book numbers. go to any quality bearing retailer and they will know what these numbers are.
hope this helps
Bradley
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B.Rad said:
If you Google the part number you will find the predominant supplier(s) are in China, and the prices range up to $10.00 for quantity, amazing! You have to dig to find the German suppliers whos prices are closer to "normal" ($120).
So I thought why not purchase 12 Chinese bearings (for the price of one German bearing) and just replace them when they start making noise? :roll:
A few years ago I put new bearings (tapered rollers) on my boat trailer, they were made in China; they started making noise in less then 50 miles, no more Chinese bearings!!!
Beware of where your bearing are made, you do get what you pay for.
Bill.
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sean said:
The Norton part number is: 064118.
http://www.oldbritts.com/nor_comm_73_6.html
If you order the bearings (and any other Norton parts) from one of the registered Andover Norton parts suppliers then that should guarantee you receive top quality items.
http://www.andover-norton.co.uk/Distributors.htm
Hi Sean, welcome and I hope your project goes well.
There's plenty of good advice above re the superblends.
My fairly recent experience with them was that my supplier, Norvil, prefers to supply the standard fit bearing whereas Andover and others recommend the C3 version.
And in truth, my own research of NOC discussions made me lean towards the standard fit anyway. But I was WRONG. The bearings tightened up when fitted and I had to re-do the work as well as buy a set of C3 bearings.
But we're only talking fractions of a thou here; I test-assembled the engine a number of times and I noted that the addition of Loctite bearing retaining compound to the outer races was enough to make the difference between a good fit and a tight one. That's my engine though; not all 40+ year old engines are going to be the same. (possible spun bearings etc).
Long story short: The real experts (not me) now recommend the C3 version. It seems they have good reason to do so.
Regarding place of manufacture, both the Norvil supplied bearings and the C3 ones which I bought locally in Australia were made in India. All are FAG and appear to be up to FAG standards.
The thread titled "Main Bearing Specs" which Brad instigated a while ago contains some good info from very knowledgeable members.
Regarding sealer for the fibreglass tank, after researching this topic (mainly on this forum) I chose to use Caswells sealer. Although I applied it some months ago I only started the bike 2 weeks ago after a 2 year rebuild, so I can't judge it yet. But it looks like good stuff. Preparation of the tank is all important as noted in the instructions that come with the kit.
As I said, this forum has good info on this subject already if you search for it.
Cheers
Martin
There's plenty of good advice above re the superblends.
My fairly recent experience with them was that my supplier, Norvil, prefers to supply the standard fit bearing whereas Andover and others recommend the C3 version.
And in truth, my own research of NOC discussions made me lean towards the standard fit anyway. But I was WRONG. The bearings tightened up when fitted and I had to re-do the work as well as buy a set of C3 bearings.
But we're only talking fractions of a thou here; I test-assembled the engine a number of times and I noted that the addition of Loctite bearing retaining compound to the outer races was enough to make the difference between a good fit and a tight one. That's my engine though; not all 40+ year old engines are going to be the same. (possible spun bearings etc).
Long story short: The real experts (not me) now recommend the C3 version. It seems they have good reason to do so.
Regarding place of manufacture, both the Norvil supplied bearings and the C3 ones which I bought locally in Australia were made in India. All are FAG and appear to be up to FAG standards.
The thread titled "Main Bearing Specs" which Brad instigated a while ago contains some good info from very knowledgeable members.
Regarding sealer for the fibreglass tank, after researching this topic (mainly on this forum) I chose to use Caswells sealer. Although I applied it some months ago I only started the bike 2 weeks ago after a 2 year rebuild, so I can't judge it yet. But it looks like good stuff. Preparation of the tank is all important as noted in the instructions that come with the kit.
As I said, this forum has good info on this subject already if you search for it.
Cheers
Martin
thanks for the info and replies .....I am just making a list of bits that are missing and things I am going to need for the rebuild as I dont want to strip it down and be waiting weeks or months for parts I can order in advance .....winter is almost over so I can get back out in the shop .
I am going to try the sealer in the tank as it is in good shape otherwise
safe riding
Sean.......Ontario Canada
I am going to try the sealer in the tank as it is in good shape otherwise
safe riding
Sean.......Ontario Canada
Hi Sean
Just a tip about the tank sealer: despite what the instructions say about tipping out excess sealer, there won't be any to tip out. It would be impossible anyway with the spigot at the filler.
They seem to overestimate the coverage of their product. If you leave the tank upside down when finished any "excess" will set at the top of the tank where it's out of the way.
My 1970 bike is not originally a Fastback but it has a Fastback tank.
In Australia at the moment it's only the 91 octane "E10" (10% ethanol) which is supposed to contain ethanol.
The "premium" 95 and 98 octane fuels, which are the ones I would choose for the Norton, are not supposed to contain ethanol.
However, better safe than sorry.
By the way, shaking the tank during the cleaning process is a really good bicep workout. Pity I don't have any ha ha.
Cheers
Martin
Just a tip about the tank sealer: despite what the instructions say about tipping out excess sealer, there won't be any to tip out. It would be impossible anyway with the spigot at the filler.
They seem to overestimate the coverage of their product. If you leave the tank upside down when finished any "excess" will set at the top of the tank where it's out of the way.
My 1970 bike is not originally a Fastback but it has a Fastback tank.
In Australia at the moment it's only the 91 octane "E10" (10% ethanol) which is supposed to contain ethanol.
The "premium" 95 and 98 octane fuels, which are the ones I would choose for the Norton, are not supposed to contain ethanol.
However, better safe than sorry.
By the way, shaking the tank during the cleaning process is a really good bicep workout. Pity I don't have any ha ha.
Cheers
Martin
concours
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This company is in Nova Scotia, may save you cost/time. I've not personally dealt with them. Others can chime in with feedback.
http://www.britcycle.com/default.htm
http://www.britcycle.com/default.htm
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Sean
You can also use Walridge Motors. Mike is a good guy to deal with. He is in Lucan Ontario. http://www.walridge.com/
both BCS and walridge are good people to deal with.
Cheers,
Thomas,
CNN
You can also use Walridge Motors. Mike is a good guy to deal with. He is in Lucan Ontario. http://www.walridge.com/
both BCS and walridge are good people to deal with.
Cheers,
Thomas,
CNN
yeah I have dealt with them before with Triumph rebuilds we have another supplier Walridge motors close to here...... not many Canadian suppliers for British parts or reproduction parts and our problem buying from USA dealers that only ship UPS or Fedex is they charge a brokerage fee on top of taxes.... whereas USPS doesnt .
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I have friends over your way I can get a tank over to you the old fashioned way drive it over. I know Mike and Ross and Bruce and Bill and many more. They know me just ask around after Greg F. Many on this board have gone down your path most have their sealer for two years or so than write back if honest that see leaks again. Your choice of course but the price of the new tank balanced against all your work and the damage to the bike when it fails, well we all go are own way. I really like the badge tanks so we did this one right with the right stuff. Good luck
sean said:
The thread for the petcocks appears to be 1/4" BSP.
The instructions suggest plugging these holes with play-doh. I followed this advice, and used 1/4" BSP plugs for added security. The play-doh did a good job of keeping sealer off the threads, but it was a bit tricky to clean out, especially where it comes in contact with the sealer.
For the filler neck, after a bad start in which I didn't get it right and damaged the paintwork with the acetone, I achieved a good seal by laying strips of plumber's putty around the top of the filler, then covering it with glad wrap and a cloth and then closing the cap.
You only need to seal the filler when CLEANING the tank, not when applying the sealer, despite what the instructions say. In fact I removed the cap altogether when applying the sealer. You really need to be able to see what is happening to ensure you are getting thorough coverage. The sealer won't spill out, it's too sticky and viscous for that, and the spigot is there to stop it. You need to work fairly quickly before it thickens up too much.
Oh and after reading snorton74's post I should clarify: I only used half the can on the first application, as suggested by the instructions. Then a second application with the remainder.
Cheers
Martin
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