1968 Commando Boyer install

uneasy rider

uneasy rider

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Putting a new Boyer on a 68 Commando. Set the mark at 31 Degrees BTDC. I installed the rotor as per instructions, in line where "Norton" would be on the case. The pick-up plate is not aligned with the holes, at any adjustment. I know it should be with the white dot showing thru the lower hole. It seems the rotor is not aligned properly. What am I doing wrong?
Thanks. UR
 
uneasy rider said:
I installed the rotor as per instructions, in line where "Norton" would be on the case.
Click to expand...

How could you do that on a '68 Commando which should have the points housing behind the cylinders? I don't understand this unless you have somehow converted your '68 to camshaft points or fitted a later engine?
andover-norton.co.uk

Andover Norton Parts Drawings - Andover Norton Factory Parts - Commando Parts

Andover Norton Parts are the only Norton spare parts in the market manufactured to original drawings, within the factory-approved tolerances, from the correct materials, and with the correct finish.
andover-norton.co.uk
 
Last edited:
Send photo of the pcb view when installed in place
There should be two holes in the pcb
One is lower and for clockwise turning rotors (like the Triumph Daytona).
There is another hole to the left of the central rotor hole that you should be able to see through and see the little magnet with white dot that is part of the rotor you installed
Dennis
 
L.A.B. said:
How could you do that on a '68 Commando which should have the points housing behind the cylinders? I don't understand this unless you have somehow converted your '68 to camshaft points or fitted a later engine?
andover-norton.co.uk

Andover Norton Parts Drawings - Andover Norton Factory Parts - Commando Parts

Andover Norton Parts are the only Norton spare parts in the market manufactured to original drawings, within the factory-approved tolerances, from the correct materials, and with the correct finish.
andover-norton.co.uk
Click to expand...
Ok, so with the timing mark at 31 BTDC, I need to know exactly where the magnets rotor is set. The installation instructions only mention aligning it wit the "Norton" on the case, nothing about where to align it on a '68 without any Norton on the case. I know I am missing something.
I also tried aligning the magnet white dot in the lower hole on the plate with the adjustment half way. It just kicked back when I tried to start it.
 
uneasy rider said:
The installation instructions only mention aligning it wit the "Norton" on the case,
Click to expand...

Yes, that's for the camshaft points housing.

uneasy rider said:
nothing about where to align it on a '68 without any Norton on the case.
Click to expand...

With the engine set at 31 degrees BTDC on the compression stroke (either cylinder) position the rotor in the rear housing so the paint mark shows in the lower clockwise hole when the plate is in the middle slot position.
 
L.A.B. said:
Yes, that's for the camshaft points housing.



With the engine set at 31 degrees BTDC on the compression stroke (either cylinder) position the rotor in the rear housing so the paint mark shows in the lower clockwise hole when the plate is in the middle slot position.
Click to expand...
Is it possibly for the chain to jump a tooth? I aligned the rotor and plate as you described but it still just kicks back. I am stumped.
 
If your right leg is up to the task, just keep retarding it until it no longer kicks back and actually starts. This still leaves you the task of fine tuning the timing. Do you have a timing mark under the primary cover?
 
On the center stand, it's pretty much horizontal, maybe this pic helps. I'm no expert, having done exactly one Commando/Boyer, but the one I worked on was waay TF off. It kicked back like crazy after this static timing attempt, so I put my phone on a tripod, set to slow-mo and kicked it over with a long spark plug lead from another vehicle positioned right at the opened timing degree marker so I could see spark and mark. That showed me where it was, and I went on faith that other things were lined up right in the engine's timing arena. Given it takes some spinning to make it fire, it's not as easy on these...

I found it was off several degrees and sorted that out, but even when set to 31, it kicked back like crazy, even with a new battery. In the end, 29 degrees solved the kickback, and it started and ran fine after that. 2 degrees made a huge diff.

1968 Commando Boyer install
 
Stephen Hill said:
Do you have a timing mark under the primary cover?
Click to expand...

It should have the usual timing mark and scale behind the inspection cap.

gpzkat said:
On the center stand, it's pretty much horizontal, maybe this pic helps. I'm no expert, having done exactly one Commando/Boyer, but the one I worked on was waay TF off.
Click to expand...

Yes, but this is a '68 model with the points housing behind the cylinders.
 
L.A.B. said:
It should have the usual timing mark and scale behind the inspection cap.



Yes, but this is a '68 model with the points housing behind the cylinders.
Click to expand...
OK I read that he was still looking at the case, assumed not a '68 original setup. My '66 N15CS replacing magneto with a housing behind the cylinders was absolutely no fun for me, but not a Boyer (Wassell). I'm out haha.
 
Make sure the wires between the pickup plate and the box haven't crossed over somewhere as that would throw the timing out.

If it's an old MkIII Boyer then the battery must be in good condition and fully charged. The MkIV isn't as bad but the battery should still be fully charged.
Try retarding the timing. If you run out of slot adjustment then you have to reposition the rotor.
 
L.A.B. said:
I don't think so but in any case the chain position isn't part of the timing procedure.



Are you sure you have the crank set to 31 degrees BTDC and not bottom dead centre?
Click to expand...
Just getting back to this. I bring the cylinders to the top and then back down to 31 degrees. I believe this is correct?
 
L.A.B. said:
Make sure the wires between the pickup plate and the box haven't crossed over somewhere as that would throw the timing out.

If it's an old MkIII Boyer then the battery must be in good condition and fully charged. The MkIV isn't as bad but the battery should still be fully charged.
Try retarding the timing. If you run out of slot adjustment then you have to reposition the rotor.
Click to expand...
Looking at the rotor on my 68, So would I rotate it a bit clockwise or counter-clockwise ?, set the plate and try from there? I guess the rotor turns opposite in the 68.
It has the same timing mark as newer Commandos.
 
Last edited:
uneasy rider said:
Just getting back to this. I bring the cylinders to the top and then back down to 31 degrees. I believe this is correct?
Click to expand...

Turn the crank backwards from TDC (so clockwise) until the correct timing mark on the alternator rotor aligns with 31 degrees on the timing plate.
The points cam turns clockwise in the points housing behind the cylinders (as it is viewed from the left) which is opposite to the later points housing at the end of the camshaft (viewed from the right).
 

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