1956 Model 99

Forks back together. Front fender ( mudguard) dry fitted . Needs a little tweaking. Lower stay mount ears on sliders pretty well butchered in thread department by previous owner - I will likely through bolt the stays rather than try thread repair.
I turned temporary bushings of plastic for the swingarm to fit it .
I have new silent block bushes but I will install them closer to final assembly. I have the original Armstrong rear shocks but doubtful of their integrity and rebuilding them seems questionable so I purchased new Girling shrouded classic units . These come with universal bushing kits . The bushes all needed facing on the lathe in order to fit the frame and swingarm mounts .

View attachment 118244

View attachment 118245

Now awaiting return of oil tank , etc from welder to start priming of those components. Magneto and dynamo shipped off to Doug Wood for rebuilding .
Cheers ! RT
I think the problem with the fender may be that this thread is 5/16 cycle thread and not bsf. I think original thread may have been 26tpi(cycle) and not 22tpi (bsf). This may have initially caused the problem. The former owner may have used bsf or unf thread.

I would be inclined to helicoil the fork sliders if they are not too wallowed out for the helicoil tap drill. . You can drill, tap and run in the helicoil without removing the fork from the frame and will have a stronger thread than before it was done. If there is not enough material for the cycle thread there may be for the bsf or unf thread since it has a larger major diameter.

My thoughts and can't wait to see it finished. Love these bikes.
 
I think the problem with the fender may be that this thread is 5/16 cycle thread and not bsf. I think original thread may have been 26tpi(cycle) and not 22tpi (bsf). This may have initially caused the problem. The former owner may have used bsf or unf thread.

I would be inclined to helicoil the fork sliders if they are not too wallowed out for the helicoil tap drill. . You can drill, tap and run in the helicoil without removing the fork from the frame and will have a stronger thread than before it was done. If there is not enough material for the cycle thread there may be for the bsf or unf thread since it has a larger major diameter.

My thoughts and can't wait to see it finished. Love these bikes.
The problem is someone in the past had no idea or didn’t care about the thread form and seems to have forced UNC bolts in .
Threads mostly destroyed. My rationale for through bolts is that I can use 1/4” and not have to remove any more material from the ears . I have various cycle thread helicoil sets but am reluctant to use them in this location. I think 1/4 “ is more than adequate for mudguard stays . Thanks for the thoughtful input - two heads are better than one .
I am still wrestling with my conscience regarding various fasteners on chassis components. I have several sources for BSC , BSF & Whitworth fasteners but I am on a budget with this build and can save time and $$ by using locally available stainless UNF / UNC fasteners for through bolts where thread form isn’t critical ( think Commando hodge podge) . I made up this fixture for doming the bolt heads - polished up on the buffer and turned chamfered washers will look right ( or right enough… )

 
Some more progress - as the motorcycle moves forward the bank account goes in the other direction.
Oil tank primed , glazed with Upol , sanded and primed again -
1956 Model 99

1956 Model 99

Main rear mudguard section primed and glazed -
1956 Model 99

Tip section primed , glazed , blocked and primed again -
1956 Model 99

Headlamp primed , glazed , blocked and primed again -
1956 Model 99

Fuel tank paint stripped to reveal a few dents - must have gotten into a tank slapper at some point . Looks like another cut open and bang out project . These tanks in 1956 were chrome with painted panels - I would like to do the same so that means body solder - no plastic filler. Even if I am successful in removing the dents it may be cost prohibitive. If that’s the case then I’ll go for the later style painted tank with screw on chrome side panels - we’ll see…
1956 Model 99

Thanks for looking.
RT
 
The steering damper needs to be hydraulic. I think Reynold's dampers might be friction. Hydraulic steering dampers tend to straight the bike out better if you lose it. I have never had a 1950s hydraulic steering damper, however they did exist.
 
Been working on the Domi making slow progress. Went to mount the tank badges that the previous owner had gotten. The pad that goes under the badge wasn't there and the screws were to short. I made the pad using an old computer mouse pad. I had ordered longer replacement screws that turned out to be the wrong size. I thought they were 2BA screws but they could be either 3BA or 4BA according to RGM. RGM used to supply the hold down strap and pad for the gas tank. not anymore.
On the slimline tanks the badge screws are 3BA, so I would imagine the wideline tanks would use the same.
Nice work by the way.
 
Can anyone tell me the purpose of the two studs on the back
( interior) side of the oil tank ?
B0D52CCF-3984-4A4A-A5B5-A3B5EB63E0B4.jpeg


Oil tank / battery box in situ -
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Headlamp shell in situ -
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Main rear fender section blocking in progress-
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Decisions to be made regarding fuel ( petrol ) tank -
To be accurate ( and looks much better IMHO ) it should be chrome with painted panels . The issue is dents which need to be raised and fairing must be done with body solder - no plastic filler . The torch process necessary for this may cause warpage and also disrupt previous repairs on the underside done with solder . The polishing necessary for plating may thin the walls of the tank as well . I may elect to go with the chrome panel overlay as done in later models - we’ll see.
Thanks for looking - RT
 

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Hi Richard, later in 1956 or'57 the Dominator came out with bolt on chrome panels is this an option, I think they come up occasionally, I have them on my '57 ES2 though the tank is a different shape.
 
Hi Richard, later in 1956 or'57 the Dominator came out with bolt on chrome panels is this an option, I think they come up occasionally, I have them on my '57 ES2 though the tank is a different shape.
Thanks possm - I may do the chrome panels - certainly an easier , cheaper and safer option - RGM offers reproductions that seem to be very nice . I much prefer the chrome tank / painted panels but that may not be viable, both from a work standpoint and cost - see above post # 51
 
Thanks possm - I may do the chrome panels - certainly an easier , cheaper and safer option - RGM offers reproductions that seem to be very nice . I much prefer the chrome tank / painted panels but that may not be viable, both from a work standpoint and cost - see above post # 51

I didn't know RGM had them, about 10 years ago I did a Model 7 it cost me over $1600 to panel beat and chrome the tank alone!
 
Well it seems RGM HAD them - past tense . Now out of stock . I have sent them several e mails regarding other parts that are listed as out of stock but have received no response.
 
Out of curiosity did any mirrors come with the project? I'm looking at 50's Nortons and not many have mirrors. I'd like to see what the period correct ones were like. I believe they didn't come fitted from the factory, they were bought aftermarket. Maybe because they were considered "safety" items and not considered cool at the time.
 
Out of curiosity did any mirrors come with the project? I'm looking at 50's Nortons and not many have mirrors. I'd like to see what the period correct ones were like. I believe they didn't come fitted from the factory, they were bought aftermarket. Maybe because they were considered "safety" items and not considered cool at the time.
No - no mirrors. Many missing items - lots of damage . Just discovered recently when fitting front mudguard that it had the wrong fork bridge - too short . That has been corrected but not until I stripped, bead blasted, glazed , sanded and painted and mounted the wrong one … sigh
 
Can anyone tell me the purpose of the two studs on the back
( interior) side of the oil tank ?
View attachment 118422

Oil tank / battery box in situ -
View attachment 118423

Headlamp shell in situ -
View attachment 118425

Main rear fender section blocking in progress-
View attachment 118426

Decisions to be made regarding fuel ( petrol ) tank -
To be accurate ( and looks much better IMHO ) it should be chrome with painted panels . The issue is dents which need to be raised and fairing must be done with body solder - no plastic filler . The torch process necessary for this may cause warpage and also disrupt previous repairs on the underside done with solder . The polishing necessary for plating may thin the walls of the tank as well . I may elect to go with the chrome panel overlay as done in later models - we’ll see.
Thanks for looking - RT
The studs are for mounting the Volks air cleaner. I have the original one on my 58 Domi 88, haven't found one for the 56.
 
Out of curiosity did any mirrors come with the project? I'm looking at 50's Nortons and not many have mirrors. I'd like to see what the period correct ones were like. I believe they didn't come fitted from the factory, they were bought aftermarket. Maybe because they were considered "safety" items and not considered cool at the time.
In the old days, a few motorcycles had mirrors which fitted into the ends of the handle bars, and came back above the hands - they might have been Dougherty. One of my sons had a modern motorcycle and he used mirrors. I had mainly Triumphs in the 1950s and 1960s - none had mirrors. Mirrors are like decent crash hats. Motorcycles had a very bad reputation for killing people.
 
I would never look in a mirror to be safe on a motorcycle on a public road - how do you know where the blind spots are ? Beginners are probably too terrified to relax and have quick look around.
 
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