1/2" bore India Master cylinder

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jimbo

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anybody get one of these?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Norton-Front-Br ... a0&vxp=mtr

1/2" bore India Master cylinder
 
This is from Madass, one of our members here. Another well thought out and executed upgrade. I wonder how long the brake line is. Will it fit my 750 roadster with "western bars"? Also about the same cost as sleeving the original master cylinder.
 
never had any luck with a resleeve job ,is there anyone doing that with good results?


illf8ed said:
This is from Madass, one of our members here. Another well thought out and executed upgrade. I wonder how long the brake line is. Will it fit my 750 roadster with "western bars"? Also about the same cost as sleeving the original master cylinder.
 
I recently bought one and here are my comments: easy installation, Don sends a hose to suit your bars, just tell him your bar style (mine was a Euro), I think the master cylinder works great and I can actually do "panic stops". I have put around 1000 miles on my bike since installation and 80 miles of that was the day after installation on a back roads ride with at least 30 right angle or hairpin turns. The only downside (if you can call it that) is the rubber boot no longer fits but I found that the rubber boot from the atlas clutch cable (gearbox adjustment on the gearbox side cover) fits great over the electrical connection between the leads and the brake light switch. I'm sure one from a Triumph would work just as well. The brake light switch is a micro switch and the assembly it fits the Lucas switchgear very nicely. It even has the mirror mount although I am using bar end mirrors. I'd give it at least an "A" for form, fit and function.

Dave
 
jimbo said:
never had any luck with a resleeve job ,is there anyone doing that with good results?


illf8ed said:
This is from Madass, one of our members here. Another well thought out and executed upgrade. I wonder how long the brake line is. Will it fit my 750 roadster with "western bars"? Also about the same cost as sleeving the original master cylinder.

I did a resleeve one time on a '74 JPN. I didn't really notice much improvement and the thing is much harder to bleed the air out than the stock setup. I may be in the minority, but the original front brake on my '72 works just fine.
 
illf8ed said:
jimbo said:
never had any luck with a resleeve job ,is there anyone doing that with good results?


illf8ed said:
This is from Madass, one of our members here. Another well thought out and executed upgrade. I wonder how long the brake line is. Will it fit my 750 roadster with "western bars"? Also about the same cost as sleeving the original master cylinder.

I did a resleeve one time on a '74 JPN. I didn't really notice much improvement and the thing is much harder to bleed the air out than the stock setup. I may be in the minority, but the original front brake on my '72 works just fine.

You did something wrong.
 
illf8ed said:
jimbo said:
never had any luck with a resleeve job ,is there anyone doing that with good results?


illf8ed said:
This is from Madass, one of our members here. Another well thought out and executed upgrade. I wonder how long the brake line is. Will it fit my 750 roadster with "western bars"? Also about the same cost as sleeving the original master cylinder.

I did a resleeve one time on a '74 JPN. I didn't really notice much improvement and the thing is much harder to bleed the air out than the stock setup. I may be in the minority, but the original front brake on my '72 works just fine.


You should have noticed a marked difference going from a 5/8" bore to a 1/2", something's amiss.. Your 72 original front brake is the only one I've ever heard of that works just fine.
 
Add me to list of very pleased with factory Lockheed set up for normal use but took some fear level grip to squeal until after I removed the rubber restriction valve hole. I did notice a new rubber hose distinctly helped tire squeal on Trixie and SS hose even more so on Peel, to point I think fitting 100 front tire instead of 110 is shooting braking in the foot print. If poor grip strength then narrower bore and RGM race lever should relieve the effort to lock up.
 
hobot said:
Add me to list of very pleased with factory Lockheed set up for normal use but took some fear level grip to squeal until after I removed the rubber restriction valve hole. I did notice a new rubber hose distinctly helped tire squeal on Trixie and SS hose even more so on Peel, to point I think fitting 100 front tire instead of 110 is shooting braking in the foot print. If poor grip strength then narrower bore and RGM race lever should relieve the effort to lock up.


Exception duly noted, principles of physics notwithstanding.
 
JimC said:
You should have noticed a marked difference going from a 5/8" bore to a 1/2", something's amiss.. Your 72 original front brake is the only one I've ever heard of that works just fine.

"Allegedly works just fine."
 
JimC don't knock it till ya tried it. I'm a bit pissed at finaly following accepted wisdom's to fit 100 instead of 110 which is actually dangerous on Trixie as tends to lock up too easy after restriction burnt out and nothing else done. It don't change hydualic ratio but it sure does transmit more of my intentions to the contact patch. I admit I'm not that good or safe a rider so others like you may need or can use more brake power with less grip effort but I can't use anymore on factory Trixie and pleased I can't lock up on panic over 60 but do gotta watch out below that is all. There was one other fella that poked out the hole and complained to me that it only helped reduce braking distance by ~ a 3rd shorter and could now enter turns w/o fear planning ahead >> as still needed good strong grip to do so instead of two finger effort. JimC I am not your enemy and have to realize you don't know what your talking about on an issue I do. Easy enough to test my suggestion and wish others would to see if sticking with factory parts can be quite good enough. Only reason I resleeved Peel was its rusted so bad the bore was eaten up with the piston. i have that JIm Armoreth [sp] Lockheed mc available with RGM lever if any interested as i don't want it no more as too heavy and ugly for next Peel.
 
Hobot, I've never stuck a hot nail anywhere, if that's what you're referring to. What you claim to be doing to the stock Norton brake will not change the fluid pressure on the caliper piston one iota.

You have suggested a lot of , what I would call, crackpot ideas. Most of us chuckle and ignore you, but there are some on this site who do not have the benefit of knowledge or experience. Frankly, I could care less what you do to your Norton. I suggest a warning should preface your ideas, NOT TO BE TRIED AT HOME!

I see you've managed to post over 12,000 posts. Half of these, neither you nor anyone else know what the hell you are trying to say. The other half is pure dribble.

There, now I've said it. I'm sure there are others that agree.
 
illf8ed said:
This is from Madass, one of our members here. Another well thought out and executed upgrade. I wonder how long the brake line is. Will it fit my 750 roadster with "western bars"? Also about the same cost as sleeving the original master cylinder.

I still have to fit the 'Madass resleeve kit I purchased (prefer original look) but at the time I seem to remember there was a option on brake line length.
That might apply to the master cylinder too

The OP saying India is a concern when (Aussie?) Madass is in the Philippines.
OP if you have anything to do with the Nuke program please do confuse Austria with Australia. :? :lol:
 
Good to learn of that and looks like a good alternative to a resleeve...my bike was resleeved by the PO and that works well most of the time but the MC piston seizes when my bike is parked in the sun on a really hot day, posted on that awhile back and others have had the same problem
 
Heat seize is common issue in resleeved bores and at times on factory Lockheed. Almost always solved by shorting what ever is preventing the piston from retracting a few more .000'ths to relieve the heat expansion. Most noticed at rest w/o wind cooling but could happen at speed in hot sun not going really fast and of course some extra use of it. Usually take some off the piston or spacer-plunger between lever rather than lever. If ya can reproduce lock up condition w/o riding then just rub some off till it don't, then a wee bit more.
 
Fit the master cylinder. The only thing I can see wrong is that the bolt may go rusty, unless you swap it for a plated one. You will immediately feel the benefit of 1/2 inch versus 5/8 inch.
I resleeved my original master cyl as in an earlier comment today. I'm a mechanic. One of my bosses once told me, if you don't believe anything your hear, and believe only half you see, you probably wont make a mistake going down the garden path. This is a talk show, and I find the comments rather interesting. Its nice to hear what others have done to our amazing bikes.
There are 2 other phrases I could mention. You get what you pay for, and advice is only worth as much as you pay for it.
 
FWIW, I have a RGM threaded sleeve kit on my Roadster, plenty of good and spirited use now for 2 years, running a standard Lockheed slave cylinder with slotted Ferrodo disc pads , standard 'dinner plate' disc, and this has changed my bike for the better and no issues with heat in the middle of our summers.
I have one of Madass's press in sleeve kits in my race bike, and although have only had two days of practice and racing, have had no issues with this under extreme pressure. Standard master and slave , Ferrodo slotted disc pads, standard dinner plate disc with lightening holes in the centre near the bolt up face and slots machined into both sides of the disc face, also no issue with the master in the heat at this stage, will give an update during out hotter weather which is well on the way for us southern hemisphere dwellers!!!
Regards Mike

1/2" bore India Master cylinder
 
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