My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread

[TomU]

Do you think you will get a ride in before the weather turns to poop?

I figure i'm about a couple of weeks out from firing it up. Need to clean out the tank (as best i can ) then weld up some O2 bungs on my exhaust (have a spare wideband i was thinking on using to check my A/F). I have a new set of pipes and was going to weld the bungs to the old pipes, but now thinking about welding to the new ones. The sensor won't be there permanately, but the bungs will allow me to hook it up whenever i want to check the A/F. Having bungs on the new pipes would be a lot easier than changing out the pipes whenever i want to check A/F. I'm also still waiting on Matt to get to work on his headsteady which have been out of stock for almost a year. Anywho, what's the point starting it in a couple weeks if i just have to turn around and put it up for the winter? Are there any issues leaving the assembly lube sit that long? I mean it's already sat what 4 months or so by now, what's another 6 months?

 

[Schwany]

Can't help. I don't have the patience to let a new build sit.

Where would the bungs be welded in?

Those 34mm Mikuni twin carburetor kits for Norton are jetted close. Maybe try them with a few spirited rides before welding anything up.

 

[Shelby-Right]

Can't help. I don't have the patience to let a new build sit.

Where would the bungs be welded in?

Those 34mm Mikuni twin carburetor kits for Norton are jetted close. Maybe try them with a few spirited rides before welding anything up.

The best place to weld them in is ,the end of the header or if you have a two into one it would be the collector or have you thought of making a short stub that goes into the muffler header joint and another muffler mount to move it back 2-3" temporarily for your testing . I wouldn't worry about the correct orientation of the oxy sensor for short term testing .cheers.

 

[marshg246]

I figure i'm about a couple of weeks out from firing it up. Need to clean out the tank (as best i can ) then weld up some O2 bungs on my exhaust (have a spare wideband i was thinking on using to check my A/F). I have a new set of pipes and was going to weld the bungs to the old pipes, but now thinking about welding to the new ones. The sensor won't be there permanately, but the bungs will allow me to hook it up whenever i want to check the A/F. Having bungs on the new pipes would be a lot easier than changing out the pipes whenever i want to check A/F. I'm also still waiting on Matt to get to work on his headsteady which have been out of stock for almost a year. Anywho, what's the point starting it in a couple weeks if i just have to turn around and put it up for the winter? Are there any issues leaving the assembly lube sit that long? I mean it's already sat what 4 months or so by now, what's another 6 months?

Tom! You're making me crazy! Now it's Q2 sensors - when will the craziness stop?

BTW, in VA we have some really nice days in Nov and Dec - there's plenty of time to ride this year.

 

[TomU]

The best place to weld them in is ,the end of the header or if you have a two into one it would be the collector or have you thought of making a short stub that goes into the muffler header joint and another muffler mount to move it back 2-3" temporarily for your testing . I wouldn't worry about the correct orientation of the oxy sensor for short term testing .cheers.

Was thinking on either of these locations

They are small, so was contemplating on putting them on my new pipes and leaving them plugged when not in use. Still not sure though. I won't probably won't be using more than once (unless i need to change the jetting)

Amazon product ASIN B01N0DZO12

 

[TomU]

Tom! You're making me crazy! Now it's Q2 sensors - when will the craziness stop?

Greg, they're wideband sensors, not O2. Totally different

And doing it just to drive you crazy

 

[Shelby-Right]

Was thinking on either of these locations

View attachment 100578

They are small, so was contemplating on putting them on my new pipes and leaving them plugged when not in use. Still not sure though. I won't probably won't be using more than once (unless i need to change the jetting)

Amazon product ASIN B01N0DZO12

I think unless you have stainless headers or are going to rechrome , the adapter with the 18x1.5 thread for sensor, that slides in would be easy , I have a spare AEM wide band and might do the same one day .

 

[TomU]

I have a spare AEM wide band and might do the same one day .

Yeah, that's my situation, have a spare wideband so why not use it vs other trial and error methods of adjusting AFR. And you are probably right about the chrome so that my limit my choice to welding my old set of pipes, if they can even be welded

 

[brucecostello]

Yeah, that's my situation, have a spare wideband so why not use it vs other trial and error methods of adjusting AFR. And you are probably right about the chrome so that my limit my choice to welding my old set of pipes, if they can even be welded

Why not just use an Innovate 02 sensor clamp?

Innovate Exhaust Clamp for Wideband O2 Sensor / LM2 LC1 LM-2 LC-1 LM-1 MTX

Check out the deal on Innovate Exhaust Clamp for Wideband O2 Sensor / LM2 LC1 LM-2 LC-1 LM-1 MTX at StreetRays.com

www.streetrays.com

 

[TomU]

Think the tail pipe is too far away.

https://wbo2.com/lsu/LsuInstal.pdf

"It’s possible to locate a sensor 300 mm (12”) from a single cylinder runner pipe (such as on an air-cooled motorbike)"

and

"So ambient air is not induced back past the sensor at low flow volumes (idle and slow speed), there must be a reasonable amount of pipe after the sensor – at least 500 mm (20 inches) is a starting point."

 

[marshg246]

And doing it just to drive you crazy

Good job!

BTW, if you insist, how about a threaded rather than welded. Or, a sensor that you stick in the muffler. I obviously know nothing about this - just not fond of welding chrome pipes (making them ugly).

 

[marshg246]

Another random thought, Drill a hole in the exhaust pipe right in front of the muffler front tube. When done with the sensors, use a muffler clamp to seal the hole (maybe with sealer). You could even weld to a muffler clamp and use a different one to seal.

 

[TomU]

Good job!

BTW, if you insist, how about a threaded rather than welded. Or, a sensor that you stick in the muffler. I obviously know nothing about this - just not fond of welding chrome pipes (making them ugly).

Yes, it's a threaded bung that's welded to the pipe. The muffler adaptor is not ideal, but an option if you don't want to weld your pipes. I'm going to probably use my old pipes so won't care about the aesthics of the weld, just as long as it holds and doesn't leak.

 

[Fast Eddie]

Think the tail pipe is too far away.

Not entirely sure, but I think what Bruce showed is just the clamp, and the sensor can be mounted in a way that protrudes as far down the pipe as you wish.

 

[TomU]

Got my bung holes welded. What's wrong with this picture

 

[EstuaryBoy]

Must be autumn... Your roses have dropped!

(Too far)??

 

[TomU]

It is autumn here, but other than that you're wrong. Try again

 

[brucecostello]

Not just one pipe but both! That is classic!

 

[Shelby-Right]

Got my bung holes welded. What's wrong with this picture

View attachment 100742

Sometimes idle AFR can trick you , depends on the cam .

 

[TomU]

Sometimes idle AFR can trick you , depends on the cam .

With the wideband i can log the AFR. Don't have a dyno or tach input so it won't be very accurate IRT AFR vs load, but it's probably better than guessing.

Nobody's won the prize yet on what's wrong with the picture