My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread

TomU said:
It bent my screwdriver :(



Yeah, it's getting close. I have a bunch of odds and ends to tie up, but my last major hurdle is the gas tank. I had a looksee inside with a boroscope

View attachment 99258

View attachment 99259

Seems somebody before me sealed it and didn't do a good job at that. I think most of the peeling is near the filler cap. Looking down the tank

View attachment 99260

Unfortunately, i can't get a good view on the other half. My plan is to scrape out the peeling parts as best i can, then pressure wash it, then fill it and go. Will have to check my fuel filters regularly
Click to expand...
Saw this yesterday:

Not sure what sealer you have but might be worth a watch.

I haven't tried but I think my good camera might fit through the petcock holes. I know my crappy one will.

It's only money- I've got new tanks and a painter :D
 
Thanks, but 2 problems. 1, i'd like to try to save the original tank paint if i can. It might not be salvageable though. 2, getting paint remover. I have about a half quart left from back in the good ole days, but probably not enough. And 3, will it make more of a mess inside than just leaving it alone? If the paint can't be saved, then i'll probably dip the whole thing
 
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Thought i could use a rear "Norton Commando" Venhill in-line brake switch. Guess not :(

IMG_1521sm.jpg
 
TomU said:
Thought i could use a rear "Norton Commando" Venhill in-line brake switch. Guess not :(
Click to expand...

It looks like that's the one for rearsets...
www.venhill.co.uk

NORTON REAR BRAKE CABLE + SWITCH

1968-73 750 COMMANDO MODELS 1973-ON 850 COMMANDO MODELS FITTED WITH REAR SET FOOTRESTS (Heavy duty cable including stop light switch)
www.venhill.co.uk www.venhill.co.uk
"1968-73 750 COMMANDO MODELS
1973-ON 850 COMMANDO MODELS
FITTED WITH REAR SET FOOTRESTS (Heavy duty cable including stop light switch)"

...so needed to be longer.

"Do you require additional length?"
 
What Greg said.

Different Norton, but I've busted a few switches, and gave up. I ride without a rear brake switch. I used to use a lot of rear brake when I had a weak front brake. Fixed the front brake issue and hardly ever touch the rear brake on the surfaced road. My front brake has a switch. My tail lamp is bright, or I've just been lucky and not been rear ended yet with just the front brake switch.

Only way an inline switch seems to work is if the rear brake is just about dragging when lever/pedal is all the way up. If the brake lever/pedal has too much throw before the brake starts to work, pop goes the plastic housed switch. I guess that is painfully obvious. Is there another solution for a Commando rear drum switch?
 
L.A.B. said:
It looks like that's the one for rearsets...
www.venhill.co.uk

NORTON REAR BRAKE CABLE + SWITCH

1968-73 750 COMMANDO MODELS 1973-ON 850 COMMANDO MODELS FITTED WITH REAR SET FOOTRESTS (Heavy duty cable including stop light switch)
www.venhill.co.uk www.venhill.co.uk
"1968-73 750 COMMANDO MODELS
1973-ON 850 COMMANDO MODELS
FITTED WITH REAR SET FOOTRESTS (Heavy duty cable including stop light switch)"

...so needed to be longer.

"Do you require additional length?"
Click to expand...
Believe this is the one i got. It's too long, but the real problem is the switch. It doesn't fit right in any configuration.

www.venhill.co.uk

NORTON REAR BRAKE CABLE HVY DTY + SWITCH

1968-73 750 COMMANDO MODELS 1973-ON 850 COMMANDO MODELS (Heavy duty cable including switch)
www.venhill.co.uk www.venhill.co.uk

It seems in-line rear brake switches are worse than the crappy repros. I guess i'll refurb my original or look into fitting a microswitch
 
Schwany said:
What Greg said.

Different Norton, but I've busted a few switches, and gave up. I ride without a rear brake switch. I used to use a lot of rear brake when I had a weak front brake. Fixed the front brake issue and hardly ever touch the rear brake on the surfaced road. My front brake has a switch. My tail lamp is bright, or I've just been lucky and not been rear ended yet with just the front brake switch.

Only way an inline switch seems to work is if the rear brake is just about dragging when lever/pedal is all the way up. If the brake lever/pedal has too much throw before the brake starts to work, pop goes the plastic housed switch. I guess that is painfully obvious. Is there another solution for a Commando rear drum switch?
Click to expand...

Good point. I mean how often are you on the rears and not the front? Maybe for a split second

I think i'll wire it up and if it doesn't work, oh well. It also may give me the excuse to cut off the horrid switch mount
 
TomU said:
Good point. I mean how often are you on the rears and not the front? Maybe for a split second

I think i'll wire it up and if it doesn't work, oh well. It also may give me the excuse to cut off the horrid switch mount
Click to expand...
OK if antique plates - no inspection, won't pass inspection without a rear brake light.
 
TomU said:
I have the stock cable
Click to expand...
Next time you come over bring it and I'll show you what I mean - looks like it can work but I haven't tried it. The inline front brake switches I have won't fit the cable.
 
I'm going to go ahead and install a switch, more for redundancy than for stupid government rules.

New switch is on the left, original on the right. It's nearly identical but is slightly less robust all around (switch plunger, contact metal gauge, springs, etc). Since the original is broken, i'll give the repro a shot. If it fails, i'll fab up a micro switch (I hate fabricating :) )

My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread
 
Fabbed up an oil line. This allowed me to use a double banjo on the timing side as well as insulating all the hose. It wasn't hard, but i learned the hard way the the line does not flex in rotation. This means you have to get the banjos in the correct alignment. I over tightened the drive side banjo so it was out of alignment by 180 deg. and you can't back it off. Luckily i had enough hose i could redo it.

IMG_1591sm.jpg


Oh, and that double banjo, ouch

90 degree Double Banjo #3 Hose End, 3/8 inch (10mm) - Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies

This 90 degree double banjo #3 hose end fitting is designed to work with our -3 PTFE Lined Stainless Braided Hose. It is a great way to connect two brake lines to a single master cylinder outlet.
www.pegasusautoracing.com www.pegasusautoracing.com
 
I believe most kits have a separate line that goes across the engine, that means two banjos on the timing side. That's why i made mine. You should be able to readily get the standard banjos and line from most speed shops. It's -3AN, 3/8", 10mm brake hose. I sourced the banjo bolts from RGM. The thread is some wacky British TPI. Not sure where you could get the double banjo in Australia, but somebody probably sells it. It ain't cheap. I paid $70 USD for that one fitting.
 
Closer :cool: Do you think you will get a ride in before the weather turns to poop?

Seat looks OK to me, but I ride on what is equivalent to a foam covered ironing board, so anything resembling a good seat looks great.
 
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