'72 Interstate Restoration

swooshdave · Apr 17, 2012

mattthomas4444 said:
Wheels were picked up last week after I had someone true and mount the tires.

Matt

Curious, what did that cost you?

bwolfie · Apr 17, 2012

I have a guy in town here that laces and trues wheels for $1 a spoke, and I can get tires mounted for $20. I usually mount my own tires, except the ones from my featherbed project, they were low profile and not able to be done by hand.

rvich · Apr 17, 2012

Jeepers! How many hours of polishing is invested in that front hub? I opted for burnished patina because I figured it would get there fairly soon anyway. I don't know if I am jealous or relieved.

Russ

AltaNorton · Apr 17, 2012

swooshdave said:
mattthomas4444 said:

Wheels were picked up last week after I had someone true and mount the tires.

Matt

Click to expand...

Curious, what did that cost you?

bwolfie said:
I have a guy in town here that laces and trues wheels for $1 a spoke, and I can get tires mounted for $20. I usually mount my own tires, except the ones from my featherbed project, they were low profile and not able to be done by hand.

$200 which I thought was not bad. Most shops charge around $100 to true each wheel so the tire mounting was just a bonus. $1 a spoke seems a great deal. One that I couldn't find anywhere.

rvich said:
Jeepers! How many hours of polishing is invested in that front hub? I opted for burnished patina because I figured it would get there fairly soon anyway. I don't know if I am jealous or relieved.

Russ

Well, the only thing that I don't enjoy from this restoration experience is the sanding/polishing. I usually end up dedicating a lot of hours to polishing. The hub was probably one of the quicker ones, but still a healthy 3 hours I'd say. The end result always makes it worthwhile for me...until it turns dull in a couple of months

DogT said:
Let's get crackin'. I'm sure that snow has almost melted, eh?

Dave
69S

The snow is gone but can come back any time until late may

. School is filling up most of my day obviously, but I hope to get er done this summer. Hopefully early summer around June/July. I can't wait though, it's been a long process but I can see the end...kind of

Matt

swooshdave · Apr 17, 2012

mattthomas4444 said:
swooshdave said:

mattthomas4444 said:

Wheels were picked up last week after I had someone true and mount the tires.

Matt

Click to expand...

Curious, what did that cost you?

Click to expand...

bwolfie said:

I have a guy in town here that laces and trues wheels for $1 a spoke, and I can get tires mounted for $20. I usually mount my own tires, except the ones from my featherbed project, they were low profile and not able to be done by hand.

Click to expand...

$200 which I thought was not bad. Most shops charge around $100 to true each wheel so the tire mounting was just a bonus. $1 a spoke seems a great deal. One that I couldn't find anywhere.

Matt

Yup, that's what it cost me.

gatsby · Apr 17, 2012

Sharp looking hub there Matt!

Dave - you sound like you are one of us north of the border, eh?

DogT · Apr 17, 2012

gatsby said:
Dave - you sound like you are one of us north of the border, eh?

Not me, no sure, cow manure, I've never been above the border. I just seem to run into a lot of youse guys, ay. Love the Red Green show. My wife's from Moose Lake, MN which might as well be in AB, dontchaknow.

Dave
69S

AltaNorton · Apr 22, 2012

Got some stuff for ya today. Wheels are on and its rolling around now. I also got the tank and side covers on quickly to line up the decals. I taped them in place and will take them back to the painter to clear coat over them and get it all shined up. Other than that, there isnt much new, except it actually looks like a motorcycle now!!! I do have one question though. I am assembling the few things in the outer timing cover. In the oil pressure relief valve, which way does the little piston go? Like in picture 1 or picture 2? Im thinking pic 1. The parts book doesnt clearly show it.

Heres where were at. The wheels arent complete yet obviously. We need to assemble the rear brake and put the cover over the speedo side of the hub. It was just a quick mock up so I could line up the decals. Also, we are returning the seat to get a real one with the silver/chrome accent strip along the bottom.

Matt

AltaNorton · May 6, 2012

Ive got a small update for ya. But first, can anyone confirm which way the oil pressure relief valve piston is oriented. My last post shows the two different options, I still dont know which way it goes though. Aside from that, I didnt get much done this weekend. Only got an hour to work on it. I put the carbs on and they are looking nice. Heres a picture.

Matt

shrugger · May 7, 2012

Spring should fit inside the cup. Pic 2
Be sure to anneal those copper washers. :wink:

AltaNorton · May 7, 2012

shrugger said:
Spring should fit inside the cup. Pic 2
Be sure to anneal those copper washers. :wink:

Thanks a lot! And also for the annealing reminder, I knew I had to do it but am certain I would have forgot when I get around to putting them on.

Matt

AltaNorton · May 14, 2012

Well it was my 17th birthday yesterday and I got a lot of norton related presents. The newly painted tank was one of them. It looks great too, you can't even notice that the logo is a decal. I also got a rider training course and a gift certificate to get a helmet! So all in all it was a very good birthday. Here's some pictures of the tank. I'll get to work some more next weekend and hopefully get a lot done seeing that it's a four day weekend.

Matt

AltaNorton · Jun 13, 2012

A quick question for everyone, Im trying to get the gearbox in the cradle right now and the crankcase seems to be interfering with the gearbox at the bottom right side of the opening in the cradle. The only way I can think of getting the gearbox in is to take the engine out. I obviously would hate to do that, is there something I can do to get it in without removing the engine? It seems to me like i've seen lots of pictures of bikes with the engine in before the gearbox.

Matt

swooshdave · Jun 13, 2012

mattthomas4444 said:
A quick question for everyone, Im trying to get the gearbox in the cradle right now and the crankcase seems to be interfering with the gearbox at the bottom right side of the opening in the cradle. The only way I can think of getting the gearbox in is to take the engine out. I obviously would hate to do that, is there something I can do to get it in without removing the engine? It seems to me like i've seen lots of pictures of bikes with the engine in before the gearbox.

Matt

Heh. You're screwed. Sorry.

DogT · Jun 13, 2012

I don't think you have to completely remove the engine. Just remove enough mounting studs so you can rotate the engine forward to clear the GB, but yeah, the GB usually goes in first. I thing there's a option to cut out the cradle more so it will go in with the engine in place. Of course I may be all wet here.

Dave
69S

pete.v · Jun 13, 2012

See section "D7" in the service manual. Not a light operation. What ever your intentions might be, reading this may alter your plans.

1up3down · Jun 13, 2012

I thing there's a option to cut out the cradle more so it will go in with the engine in place

yes!

works quite well and you don't have to cut too much off the cradle to rotate the gearbox out

pete.v · Jun 13, 2012

1up3down said:
I thing there's a option to cut out the cradle more so it will go in with the engine in place

Click to expand...

yes!

works quite well and you don't have to cut too much off the cradle to rotate the gearbox out

What!

We can do that but we can't cut a little meanless webbing to fit a good carb? :lol:

Hobot · Jun 13, 2012

Err excuse me but Combats are my only focus and what prevents gearbox tipping forward to clear cradle is the low down dirty breather baffle. Solution is as stated above loosen what it takes to tip engine forward then remove gear as expected. Back three cradle bolts out allow pivot on front iso after carb air boots and head steady undone. Not that bad I found, mostly just tedium that is eliminated by moving the baffle when doing Combat wet sump modification.
Combats don't wet sump much at all till on cam a while.

AltaNorton · Jun 13, 2012

Well, I got it sorted out. Just took out the three mounting bolts on the cradle and rotated the engine forward and pushed the cradle down a bit. A picture of where I'm at now: (I will be putting the cover plate over the rear hub)

Primary next, then wiring harness, then the airbox and all that smaller stuff. Then she's almost ready!!

Matt

'72 Interstate Restoration

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