'72 Interstate Restoration

Joined
Sep 5, 2010
Messages
341
The bike I have been talking about restoring for a while is finally getting started.

Heres a link to the pictures I have taken so far, and I will document everything with pictures as work gets done.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mattthomas ... 004655365/

I am wondering if anyone has a preferred method of restoring a bike like this, (what order do you usually do thing in?)
I also plan on painting or powder coating the frame and some other small parts, what method is best paint or powder coat?

Thanks,
Matt
 
Looks like you have a pretty good specimen there. Mine was in much worse shape, however, just go at it a piece at a time. I found powder coating cheaper and probably better than paint. Here in the US the paint is getting expensive from the EPA. But it is your preference, some really don't like the P/C because you cannot repair it. You need to decide how far you want to go. I was just going to get mine running, but ended up replacing all the bad parts, and did a total rebuild. If you can afford the time and money, it is a big weight off your mind when you are riding that you know what went into it instead of someone else telling you something they really didn't do. You never know unless you put your hands on all the parts.

Dave
69S
 
I'd tear it all down as dogt suggests. No way of knowing what kind of shape the engine and gearbox are in until you have a look-see! With most of these old bikes, I have found that previous owners can't remember what they did, and even if they did rebuild something, you never know if they did it right. With help from the very helpful and knowledgeable people on this forum, you will have that bike up and running and looking spectacular in no time!
 
Thanks,

I am leaning towards powder coating, and actually i didn't even know it was cheaper. I have opened up the three primary chain case access holes, and also removed the drain plug on the case, i was happy to see that there was still a fair amount of oil draining out of the case, and everything looked very good. (if i can get some good pictures ill post them) And since I am the original owner; nothing major has happened to the engine or any other parts. I do plan on opening everything up even if it may be perfectly fine, I'm interested to see.
 
You have a nice looking specimen to work with and lots of space too. While it's nice to work on one thing at a time we often get deadlocked for lack of parts, out sourcing machining or in need of a special tool etc. and we end up working on several things at a time. The main thing is just diving in and getting started but take lots of photos and take notes of the order of spacers, thrust washers, shims etc.
Your broken chaincase is quite common. The chain will throw oil all over without that flange in there. Yours looks like there is nothing left of the flange. Might be best to find a used one on ebay unless you know a good aluminum welder who thinks he can fix it cheaper.
Keep in mind powder coating is thicker than paint so care must be taken to mask areas where the extra thickness will cause problems like isolastic mount points and swing arm. Old Britts web site has good info on this as well as some older posts here.
 
Thanks,

I think I will buy the old britts blanking kit for powder coating, and I do think that buying a new case will unfortunately be the only option. My dad had decided to try and turn the engine over a few years ago and forgot the bike was in gear!

Matt
 
After some more work, the parts are starting to get cleaned up. A lot of wire brushing! Here are some pictures without the links, of the bike and some clean parts. Cause everyone likes pictures.
'72 Interstate Restoration


'72 Interstate Restoration


'72 Interstate Restoration


'72 Interstate Restoration


'72 Interstate Restoration


Dirty Horn

'72 Interstate Restoration


Clean Horn

'72 Interstate Restoration


Clean Horn

'72 Interstate Restoration


Inside Primary Case
 
mattthomas4444 said:
I am wondering what the two wires connecting to the right hand Z-plate are for? Here's a picture.
You've probably figured it out by now but that is the zener diode. It passes excess electricity (from the charging system) off as heat through the z-plate.
 
Hi Matt,
Looks like you have a completley standard 72 Interstate.
Mine was made in september 72 & ive had it from new.
All your parts look standard. Some the the air filter bits look to be missing but these can be replaced.
Its also nice to see it has the low level exhaust system on it. Most people put pea shooters on them but I have the original low level system on mine still.
Your barrels are black & if this is original it means you have the combat hi compression engine.
Mine had silver barrels when new which meant it had the standard compression engine & not the combat version.
I would recommend keeping the electronic ignition that looks to be on it & maybe fitting a Dave Taylor type head steady. These help with easy starting & better handling.
Ive also fitted Avon Roadrider tyres to mine now which also make it handle really well.
Best of luck & I hope to see it ready & running for spring next year.
Cheers Don
 
The small gap between the lowest head fin and the highest barrel fin also shouts out Combat, if you look at the top of the head you should see a C stamped on the top. The Front brake being a disc is also a clue for 72 as they were a matched option.
 
kommando said:
The small gap between the lowest head fin and the highest barrel fin also shouts out Combat

However ALL Commandos have a reduced fin gap at the barrel to head joint, so it's by no means a definitive way to identify a Combat head.

(Are my eyes deceiving me or, is that an 850 engine number starting with a "3"?
 
Don, your assessment was 100% correct the bike is a combat, with the electronic ignition I do plan on keeping. The bike is my dads that he has practically left unchanged since he bought it new as a teenager. Personally I also am a fan of the low level exhaust. I've noticed that my headsteady is cracked and I've looked into upgrading. The engine is combat, and actually still has compression after thirty years of sitting around. If anyone has any other suggested upgrades I would love to hear about what the best ones are.

Matt
 
Matt, you have the Cream of the Norton Commando crop. Long distance smooth riding sports bike surpriser. About the most unique outside feature of real Combat is the big breahter hose coming off the bottom rear of crankcase. Of course upper engine could of been changed but likely not.

Only real down fall of factory issue Combats was so strong they'd over rev em on the flat roller DS bearing till crank or bearing cracked. The road mates they were playing and beating in that era were the 3 cylinder 2 smokes 750's duh.
Both my Combats had original DS flat roller and TS ball bearing in about pristine condition, which mean they were not lugged much nor run over 7000 much.
You do not have to change them as long as away of them in there. Valve float
can hit in factory head just when ya don't want it too like passing a semi truck
and bad noises as power losss happens before you zing ahead of it in 2nd or 3rd.
Trixie my New Orleans rescue before Katrina hit, has blown up bad twice, once by the piston let go then by a weak re-used rod bolt, all in just plain touring mode but still using the old bearings fine as long as not topping out to redline all the time. Little need too for sane thrills on a real Combat even with 6 gallon is tank and cargo loaded. Much rear cargo tends to wheelie them in surprise btw.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Most dangerous feature to be aware of before riding I found out the scary way is if front brake has a leak undetected, works a charm perfectly right up to the next pull when its completely gone no warning at all. LIkely all rusted inside it but still functional - just slow leak that get blown away to fool ya. Check fluid in master cylinder each gas stop for 1000 miles to know how much to trust it on an under 13 sec 1/4 mile sprinter. *********************************

Another reason to open up besides dial measuring the cam profile to verify its a 2S cam - is my 2nd pure Combat had the old oil hole slotted pistons with an Al gasket, but runing just fine w/o doing anything to engine - until the weak pistons rubbing on extruded Al gasket came apart.

READ through the Technique Notes - Photo Posting at top of forum list for scope of what you should be aware of as baseline Commando kit.

'72 Interstate Restoration
 
Hi Matt,
I have put on a belt drive which is better than original chain system in my opinion, (does not alter looks on outside), Vernier adjusters on isolastics which are much easier to adjust,
small bore conversion on brake master cylinder & longer brake lever (these improve braking a lot). These small improvements dont really alter the outside appearance but make it a nicer bike to ride. + the other alterations I mentioned earlier like the Dave Taylor type head steady & Avon Roadrider tyres (Tires in USA) 100/90 19".
Last year I did 1900 miles on mine & I enjoy riding the commando more than my 1200 Suzuki.
Cheers Don
 
Jeepers! Do not throw away that chain case without trying to fix it! All we are talking about being broken is a splash guard around the chain right? I wouldn't weld on it, but instead would use some aluminum epoxy to just rebuild it. Heck if it doesn't work you can throw it away later as removing the primary is not that big a job and a failure there won't be something that leaves you on the side of the road. If you are worried about epoxy sticking you could drill some small holes in the edge of the broken flange and put in some small stainless screws for it to grab to. Either that or grind it off flush and pop rivet a tuna can on there...well maybe something a bit nicer but you get the idea. That broken flange is not rocket science and when the bike is assembled you wont be looking at it.

http://www.westmarine.com/1/1/8007-alum ... stick.html

As for other stuff, I assume you have the breather off the back side of the case. You should look at the threads here on crankcase breathers and take a look at the breather offered by CNW as a possible upgrade. If you take the cases apart to rebuild the engine then you might as well get the case machined where the oil pick up is. Go to www.oldbritts.com and look in the technical articles for the one titled Oil Pressure Loss. For some reason copying the link here keeps going to their home page.

It is very cool that this bike has been in your family since new. Enjoy.

Russ
 
Thanks everyone,

Russ, I will definitely try your proposed method, I never even thought of repairing the case but if it works I'll save a couple hundred bucks!

Also my dad said that very shortly after purchasing the bike he noticed excess oil leaks aroun the engine, he took it in and a new engine was installed. Did anyone else hear of this or experience this? I live in Canada so it may be a problem only on the Canadian bikes.

Matt
 
I fought with the exhaust pipe nuts for over an hour yesterday, I tried heat and penetrating oil and used a pipe wrench to try and turn them off. It wasn't until I added another four feet of leverage to the wrench that I got them off. I'm assuming there will be some more seemingly stuck bolts further down the road, does anyone have any suggestions to prevent the long task that I just experienced.

Matt
 
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