Multiple oil puddles on ground after short ride

[PDE 70 Commando]

Where does the reed valve vent to?

I added a port to the oil tank on the top right side, well above the level of the oil.

 

[PDE 70 Commando]

I'm guessing yours is the 'Hamcan' oil tank which forms the rear face of the air filter box?
The tank vent is an internal pipe which exits into the airbox, so it's just a hole in the front face of the oil tank. Have you checked if this is venting oil?
If this internal pipe has fractured it would dump oil into the airbox, and then everywhere else.
Later side-mounted tanks have an external pipe which plugs into the back of the airbox, so it's easy to check.
My '70 had a frustrating oil leak which turned out to be the triangular plate at the back of the timing case - a sliver of the thread broke away and wedged itself between the case and the plate; it took some finding
Happy to report it's now oiltight, so they're not leaky by design - as @ludwig says.
Incidentally, I removed the timed breather disc and plugged the pipe into a cheap PCV close to the tank, which worked well enough for a stock motor.

Yes, this is the tank I have. I wondered about a leak in that pipe and the effect it would have. I think that a leak in this pipe would have dripped out of the airbox vent hole during my overnight static leak test -- unless the fracture was ABOVE the level of the fluid that I used. Hmm... Man, I don't want to pull that tank again! But I sure will if I have to.

Also, shouldn't I expect to have a very oily air filter element if this is the case? I guess "very oily" is a subjective assessment; there is some oil on the element. It's not dripping yet, but perhaps I haven't ridden it far enough.

 

[kommando]

The engine breathes oil, not all gets removed at the oil tank so the oil tank breathes less but still some oil. Not enough to cause any dripping but the filter will shows signs of oil.

 

[jseng1]

Immerse the oil tank in water and use compressed air (low psi) to find the leak. For an oil tight Norton you need yamabond 4 or motoseal 1 for the cases, Pliobond on the HG, fiberglass reinforced silicone gaskets everywhere and oversized O rings. My Norton hasn't leaked a drop in years.

 

[PDE 70 Commando]

When I fitted my reed valve to my sump I had oil every where all over back tyre drips everywhere. Long story short , I put an o ring on my oil tank filler cap as well as cork washer , I have to do it up with a wrench but no more oil . Worth trying sorted mine right out .

The top of my tank seems to stay dry. Not sure how!

 

[robs ss]

When I fitted my reed valve to my sump I had oil every where all over back tyre drips everywhere. Long story short , I put an o ring on my oil tank filler cap as well as cork washer , I have to do it up with a wrench but no more oil . Worth trying sorted mine right out .

That surely must be a sign of significant blow-by whilst running.
After the first few seconds of oil/air returning to the tank there should be almost nothing - other than blow-by gases (or an air leak into the engine, like an old breather connection not properly plugged)

Also - blowing into a sealed, pressurised oil tank will reduce the effectiveness of your reed valve.

 

[Tornado]

I once had an oil line from pump to oil filter/return to tank develop a crack amd spew oil in the areas you describe. It was the flexible metal conduit on the hose that cut the rubber hose near the end...but of course you need to check all your lines throughly, esp if originals.

 

[YING]

I've never seen brake cleaner remove paint otherwise it wouldn't be fit for purpose. Maybe different formula in the US?
I've been using it for years with zero issues. Kerosene would be an option i guess, as this is what I have in my parts washer.

Bogus,
Like you, I have never had any problems using brake-clean. I use it all the time for various uses and wish it was available years ago!
Mike

 

[JimNH]

I've never seen brake cleaner remove paint otherwise it wouldn't be fit for purpose. Maybe different formula in the US?
I've been using it for years with zero issues. Kerosene would be an option i guess, as this is what I have in my parts washer.

Maybe your brake cleaner is some "green" stuff that doesn't hurt paint but even our non-chlorinated is hell on lacquer and will dull clear coat and dull or completely remove just about anything that hasn't fully cured. Search it. It's a pretty powerful solvent and I buy it by the case but keep it away from any painted surface I care about.

Here's part of the warning from one manufacturer's website:
brake cleaners contain isohexane and ethanol, which are primarily used for powerful degreasing of metal parts such as brake calipers and clutch plates. However, they can also dissolve or soften the clear coat of car paint, making the paint more susceptible to damage.

 

[batrider]

I use it as a paint remover!

 

[Holmeslice]

OP - this doesn't sound right, and doesn't sound like an inferior gasket type or o-ring issue. It sounds like your breathing system is suffocating. Whatever breather you have, it has to return into the tank well above the oil line (the later Commando OEM breather return is so high it's up on the filler neck!). When there are various puddles it's usually the result of oil trying to get out of every orifice it can.

Hope you can get this sorted, sounds like a great bike.

-Kenny

 

[t ingermanson]

It sounds like your breathing system is suffocating... When there are various puddles it's usually the result of oil trying to get out of every orifice it can.


-Kenny

I once had an oil tank whose breather was half clogged and had the same results/symptoms as the OP. Oil from everywhere and covering everything, but only after running the rpms high enough to overwhelm the marginal tank breather. Breathed fine at the handful of psi used to check for leaks, but not at 4000+ rpm.

 

[B+Bogus]

Maybe your brake cleaner is some "green" stuff that doesn't hurt paint but even our non-chlorinated is hell on lacquer and will dull clear coat and dull or completely remove just about anything that hasn't fully cured. Search it. It's a pretty powerful solvent and I buy it by the case but keep it away from any painted surface I care about.

Here's part of the warning from one manufacturer's website:
brake cleaners contain isohexane and ethanol, which are primarily used for powerful degreasing of metal parts such as brake calipers and clutch plates. However, they can also dissolve or soften the clear coat of car paint, making the paint more susceptible to damage.

Yes, I did some googling, and it's evident that they're not all equal - maybe depending on where you are in the world?

The stuff I use is naphtha-based, and there are no warnings regarding damaging paintwork. I've certainly never experienced any issues, but I do use it predominantly on oily metalwork and not on tanks, sidepanels etc.
My frames & engine cylinders are painted in 2K, and are unaffected. I note your warnings are specifically regarding damage to clearcoat.
Maybe modern water-based lacquers don't get on with it, but I only use 2K lacquer.

Certainly an issue for some though.
Here's my brand:

Holts Brake & Parts Cleaner | Cleans and Degreases

Holts Brake & Parts Cleaner is a powerful degreaser for all surfaces to remove brake dust, pad residue, grease, dirt, oily deposits and more.

www.holtsauto.com

 

[AndyDMC]

Here's my brand:

Holts Brake & Parts Cleaner | Cleans and Degreases

Holts Brake & Parts Cleaner is a powerful degreaser for all surfaces to remove brake dust, pad residue, grease, dirt, oily deposits and more.

www.holtsauto.com

Yes. Mine too. But I did find that both screwfix carb and brake cleaner stripped the *original 1984* black paint/ coating from the rotary's gearbox shell.

I didn't try either on any other painted parts!