Model year differences

Joined
Feb 19, 2026
Messages
3
Hey!

Been reading through the threads Here on the forum for a while Now and finally decided to get myself a commando 961. Always have had a soft spot for Norton sinds my dad used to own one for years.

Currently there are only 4 bikes up for sale in the Netherlands (where i am from) and I was wondering if there is much difference in model years.

The 4 up for sale now are from 2011, 2012, 2013 and 2016.

Any major differences between them?

Thanks
 
The only thing I don’t like about the 2016 is the use of the flat pack tilt circuit. If this fails it is hard to troubleshoot and if I understand correctly a spare part is difficult to come by. I believe that a change to the Delta 400 from OMEX would eliminate this flat pack and that’s what a member did from AU . Gojuu did this and also iwilson in NZ. Stu would be the one to ask about spares. If anyone else has more to add about the flat pack and it’s troubleshooting I would love to hear about it.
 
One more thing. Can anyone tell us what the resolution for the low fuel level light was when changing to the Delta 400 /s ? This only applies to the newer bikes newer than 2016 that use the ecu to turn on the low fuel light. Where the older bikes used fuel pump directly to the relay which turned on the light. Stu might answer this.
 
Hey!

Been reading through the threads Here on the forum for a while Now and finally decided to get myself a commando 961. Always have had a soft spot for Norton sinds my dad used to own one for years.

Currently there are only 4 bikes up for sale in the Netherlands (where i am from) and I was wondering if there is much difference in model years.

The 4 up for sale now are from 2011, 2012, 2013 and 2016.

Any major differences between them?

Thanks
Hi and welcome.

There was a continual development of the 961, so there were many subtle changes. These are some of them.

I believe up until about 2014 many of the engine parts were sourced and manufactured in the U.K., then Norton started to buy from Asia. ( that’s not a criticism, just fact)

Early bikes had a direct rearward facing gear lever, which is strange to use. This was later changed to lever pivoting on the footrest base with a linkage.
The early bikes frames were galvanized before powder coating.

Early bikes had wheel hubs made by Talon in the U.K. These have a tendency to crack at the spoke holes, so should be inspected very carefully. Later hubs were sourced in Taiwan, and are more meaty. These can be identified by the rounded edges of the spoke towers.

Early bikes had iron liners in the cylinders, which have been known to drop. Later bikes had no liners but Nicosil coated bores. The early cylinders can be identified by the fact that the edge of the cylinder mounting flange is machined, but on the later bikes is just a cast finish.

So as @TonyA said on balance the later bike should be better, however don’t discount an earlier bike, just check it more thoroughly.
 
Hi and welcome.

There was a continual development of the 961, so there were many subtle changes. These are some of them.

I believe up until about 2014 many of the engine parts were sourced and manufactured in the U.K., then Norton started to buy from Asia. ( that’s not a criticism, just fact)

Early bikes had a direct rearward facing gear lever, which is strange to use. This was later changed to lever pivoting on the footrest base with a linkage.
The early bikes frames were galvanized before powder coating.

Early bikes had wheel hubs made by Talon in the U.K. These have a tendency to crack at the spoke holes, so should be inspected very carefully. Later hubs were sourced in Taiwan, and are more meaty. These can be identified by the rounded edges of the spoke towers.

Early bikes had iron liners in the cylinders, which have been known to drop. Later bikes had no liners but Nicosil coated bores. The early cylinders can be identified by the fact that the edge of the cylinder mounting flange is machined, but on the later bikes is just a cast finish.

So as @TonyA said on balance the later bike should be better, however don’t discount an earlier bike, just check it more thoroughly.
Hi Cliffa , I don’t know how the liner would drop . They should be lipped liners like those on the Thiel website. I suppose they could loosen overtime and cause problems that way . But most likely they will work up towards the head gasket. I am looking at my MCT engines and will try to use these barrels for a 1007cc engine.
 
Hi Cliffa , I don’t know how the liner would drop . They should be lipped liners like those on the Thiel website. I suppose they could loosen overtime and cause problems that way . But most likely they will work up towards the head gasket. I am looking at my MCT engines and will try to use these barrels for a 1007cc engine.
Hi Tony, I don’t know specifics, but liners dropping was definitely a problem on early bikes. Agreed, the top should be flanged to stop this happening. Perhaps they weren’t flanged, or if they were, the recess in the cylinders was too deep?
 
Hi Cliffa , I don’t know how the liner would drop . They should be lipped liners like those on the Thiel website. I suppose they could loosen overtime and cause problems that way . But most likely they will work up towards the head gasket. I am looking at my MCT engines and will try to use these barrels for a 1007cc engine.

The liner(s) dropped on my 2013 CR, I did wonder at the time if they were lipped but Norton said they had dropped. Caused the head gasket to leak. They replaced with the Nikasil barrels.
 
The liner(s) dropped on my 2013 CR, I did wonder at the time if they were lipped but Norton said they had dropped. Caused the head gasket to leak. They replaced with the Nikasil barrels.
Thanks for that . So they will migrate up not down. I guess the term I would use is loosen. Should not happen if correctly installed. Nikasil is the way to go of course, sometimes much more difficult if over boring. Do you have a nikasil service over there ? I am told the place to go is Millennium Technologies over here.
 
Hi Tony, I don’t know specifics, but liners dropping was definitely a problem on early bikes. Agreed, the top should be flanged to stop this happening. Perhaps they weren’t flanged, or if they were, the recess in the cylinders was too deep?
Hi Cliffa , I remember reading that your bike is a 2011 . Did this have iron lined cylinders ?
 
Hi Tony, yes it does. I have it all apart at the moment, and my liners look fine. I’ll be starting a new thread on it soon.
If they were installed correctly, they should be fine . Great even . If those others dropped in then the counterbore was too deep and the press fit probably wrong . Horrible work.
 
If they were installed correctly, they should be fine . Great even . If those others dropped in then the counterbore was too deep and the press fit probably wrong . Horrible work.
Hi Cliffa , I would like you to take some measurements of the port ID if you have the head off. If you have the valves out even better. I will attach a drawing so you can see where the measurements need to be made. I hope you have snap gauges to measure the intake and exhaust port ID’s at 4 or 5 places along the port tract. Let’s compare yours to the MCT heads.
 
cheers everyone.


First I will visit the 2013 model this week since it is close by. It does have the most miles on it(10.000m). Doesnt look the best on the photos either but going to give it a look anyway:


the 2016 model has 5000 miles on it and looks a lot cleaner imo.
 
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