Drive chain lifespan / tensioner options

[tompkins]

Bought a cheap caltric final drive chain and it’s lifespan seems… short. I know everybody will lambast me and say, “that’s whatcha get for buying cheep!” and I already know it. The plan all along was to just get er rolling and then play around. First time Norton owner here- what’s the average life for a non oring standard duty 530 roller chain of good quality? Even the cheapies seem to last longer on my triumph and Hondas… although they are no Norton! Furthermore, those trick narrow RK UWR sealed chains seem to be the ticket, but at like 200 bux… I could buy a lotta cheapies at that rate.

Second thought- the chain adjuster setup on the 750 is… substandard. Bought some adjusters for an 850 which are of the same type as most normal bikes (IE they go around the swingarm ends and the axle goes through em) but neglected to think about clearance on the bizarre drum brake setup… has anyone retrofitted their 750 to 850 chain adjusters without mangling things up, and if so, pictures perhaps? It would be weird to put a rear disc on a front drum bike, but the benefits of doing an entire 850 rear wheel (big Cush, disc brake , actual chain adjusters) is getting more and more attractive the more I ride this bike and the closer I get to taking it touring this summer…

Sorry for the long post. Lots of musings while we dream the dream of spring…

 

[concours]

Bought a cheap caltric final drive chain and it’s lifespan seems… short. I know everybody will lambast me and say, “that’s whatcha get for buying cheep!” and I already know it. The plan all along was to just get er rolling and then play around. First time Norton owner here- what’s the average life for a non oring standard duty 530 roller chain of good quality? Even the cheapies seem to last longer on my triumph and Hondas… although they are no Norton! Furthermore, those trick narrow RK UWR sealed chains seem to be the ticket, but at like 200 bux… I could buy a lotta cheapies at that rate.

Second thought- the chain adjuster setup on the 750 is… substandard. Bought some adjusters for an 850 which are of the same type as most normal bikes (IE they go around the swingarm ends and the axle goes through em) but neglected to think about clearance on the bizarre drum brake setup… has anyone retrofitted their 750 to 850 chain adjusters without mangling things up, and if so, pictures perhaps? It would be weird to put a rear disc on a front drum bike, but the benefits of doing an entire 850 rear wheel (big Cush, disc brake , actual chain adjusters) is getting more and more attractive the more I ride this bike and the closer I get to taking it touring this summer…

Sorry for the long post. Lots of musings while we dream the dream of spring…

5,000 miles from non o-ring. Lubed regularly.

 

[tompkins]

5,000 miles from non o-ring. Lubed regularly.

Dang, speedy reply! Many thanks- I got about 6500 and we’re nearing the end of the adjusters. I might make a lil more, but it’s getting too sketchy for me.

 

[concours]

Dang, speedy reply! Many thanks- I got about 6500 and we’re nearing the end of the adjusters. I might make a lil more, but it’s getting too sketchy for me.

At $29 for a namebrand non-O-ring chain, when I was running them, I just threw it over my shoulder every season. You can pay five times as much, or more, but the RK non-O-ring chain replaced regularly is pretty cheap living.

This is a trusted vendor that I've used for years for a lot of different things. These RK chains are cheap enough to keep two on the shelf and chuck them at the moment they're anywhere near the end of their life.

RK Chain RK-M 530 Standard Chain Natural Finish

Purchase the RK Chain RK-M 530 Standard Chain Natural Finish from SportbikeTrackGear.com. Get the lowest price, free shipping deal, easy exchanges and no restocking fees - Guaranteed!

www.sportbiketrackgear.com

By replacing them early, before they get excessively elongated. There will be no adverse effect on the sprockets.

Remember, chains are a consumable item. Are there better chains? absolutely. but if you're realistic, how many miles you will actually put on the bike the decision is easier. If you're gonna spend significantly more money, the choice is clear to change to an x-ring type chain, which has a far greater lifespan. The notion of spending five times as much on a regular non-sealed chain is just crazy to me.

 

[MexicoMike]

FWIW - I have nearly 20k+ miles on an X ring sealed chain and there is still most of the total adjustment left. I have never "lubricated" the chain - just wipe it down occasionally with a rag damp with WD40.

 

[ludwig]

If you decide to use cheap chain, buy 2 and alternate when they show some slack. You will get more life out them and you sprockets.

 

[Bonzo]

FWIW - I have nearly 20k+ miles on an X ring sealed chain and there is still most of the total adjustment left. I have never "lubricated" the chain - just wipe it down occasionally with a rag damp with WD40.

Does it run close to/interfere with the primary cover?

 

[concours]

If you decide to use cheap chain, buy 2 and alternate when they show some slack. You will get more life out them and you sprockets.

Do they last longer when rested?

 

[ludwig]

Do they last longer when rested?

Yes and no.
When you use one chain to its maximum wear ( say 2 % stretch) it will also have worn the sprockets somewhat, especially near the end of its usefull life. If you then install a new chain, it will wear excessively while adapting to the ( even slightly ) worn sprockets.
Alternating between 2 chains , ( 3 would even be better..) The sprockets and chains will wear evenly and last longer.
Best is of course to replace chain and sprockets together, but then your 'cheap' 5000 mls chain becomes very expensive.

 

[concours]

Yes and no.
When you use one chain to its maximum wear ( say 2 % stretch) it will also have worn the sprockets somewhat, especially near the end of its usefull life. If you then install a new chain, it will wear excessively while adapting to the ( even slightly ) worn sprockets.
Alternating between 2 chains , ( 3 would even be better..) The sprockets and chains will wear evenly and last longer.
Best is of course to replace chain and sprockets together, but then your 'cheap' 5000 mls chain becomes very expensive.

I say throw them in the bin at 2%.

We must be having a communication difference.

You wouldn't put the worn chain back on, correct.

Replacing chain & sprockets together is not a good idea when it's also a brake drum.

 

[ludwig]

I say throw them in the bin at 2%.

We must be having a communication difference.

You wouldn't put the worn chain back on, correct.

Replacing chain & sprockets together is not a good idea when it's also a brake drum.

I mean alternating the chains every 500 miles, or so.
Personally I use 520 x ring and replace them at slightly over 1% stretch.

 

[robertv]

I bought a chain from Andover/Norton. $100. So far so good. I keep it clean and lubed. A friend swears by Reynolds for his Nortons.

 

[Torontonian]

I bought a chain from Andover/Norton. $100. So far so good. I keep it clean and lubed. A friend swears by Reynolds for his Nortons.

I bought an IWIS chain from Jason the chain man . With a new front sprocket to fit . The big rear sprocket shows the least wear .
Great chain . Can't say enough all goodness about it . 2 years on it with plenty of miles , fastidious cleaning after each big trip and then 80/90 Weight gear oil applied by squirt bottle and rag to the clean chain . I've got several new Reynolds chains in boxes in storage , cheaper yes , but the Iwis is superb . The key , despite brand , is cleaning away dirt and dust as soon as it's noticed , then apply good lube . I'm wiping on tranny oil from here on in , no sprays for me . Plug up the stock automatic chain oiler forever if not done already , at the tank spout . Enjoy .

 

[ludwig]

Second thought- the chain adjuster setup on the 750 is… substandard. Bought some adjusters for an 850 which are of the same type as most normal bikes (IE they go around the swingarm ends and the axle goes through em) but neglected to think about clearance on the bizarre drum brake setup… has anyone retrofitted their 750 to 850 chain adjusters without mangling things up, and if so, pictures perhaps?…

I made these adjusters for my Commando :



They took some time to make, but the advantages are that I never have to worry about wheel alignment, and the wheel spindle can't move when tightening. Something you have to watch for with the std adjusters.
Each hole is a step of 0.5 mm (= half a turn on a std adjuster)
The chain is a DID VX2 520. The sprocket is 40T 6 mm alu, and easily lasts the lifetime of the chain (30 000 km)

 

[tompkins]

I made these adjusters for my Commando :

They took some time to make, but the advantages are that I never have to worry about wheel alignment, and the wheel spindle can't move when tightening. Something you have to watch for with the std adjusters.
Each hole is a step of 0.5 mm (= half a turn on a std adjuster)
The chain is a DID VX2 520. The sprocket is 40T 6 mm alu, and easily lasts the lifetime of the chain (30 000 km)

This is cool! I wonder if you left the square welded on post where the original adjuster threads through on a drum brake 750 if a guy could make an adjuster facing forward like that with just a ramp that cams against the post or if it would be too soft. I’d ideally like to come up with a solution like this that locates the rear axle through the adjusters without fouling the drum spring and it’s tensioner

 

[MexicoMike]

Does it run close to/interfere with the primary cover?

It was the CNW 520 chain conversion kit which included front sprocket. Rear was machined by CNW to take the 520. It was specifically designed to ensure no concern re clearance. Nowadays they claim there are 530 (OEM-size) chains that will clear.

 

[tompkins]

It was the CNW 520 chain conversion kit which included front sprocket. Rear was machined by CNW to take the 520. It was specifically designed to ensure no concern re clearance. Nowadays they claim there are 530 (OEM-size) chains that will clear.

I heard from guys on a different board that the RK narrow sealed ones will- leaning that direction, but have also thought about giving Matt more of my precious scratch for the 520 too-

 

[Café au Lait]

It was the CNW 520 chain conversion kit which included front sprocket. Rear was machined by CNW to take the 520. It was specifically designed to ensure no concern re clearance. Nowadays they claim there are 530 (OEM-size) chains that will clear.

I have that same setup, obviously as my bike is a cNw. I have no idea how the original owner maintained the chain (D.I.D X-ring 520) but it did 14k miles (10 yrs) before a couple of links got significantly stiff for me to change it. Measured only 1mm of stretch! Zero sprocket wear. Replaced for same model for £55. No lube, just clean and wipe down with WD40. No tight spots on rotation and no tension adjustments required. Damn, nearly as easy as my BMW shaft

 

[ashman]

I don't know you guys getting so little mileage out of your chains, in 50 years of owning my Norton i am getting 40k + miles out of my standard heavy duty chains and being a everydayr rider most of its life averaging between 7k to 10k miles a year, so far in that time i have only replaced the front and rear sprockes 2 still on my second one times and the chain 3 times, on my near new 4th chain now that i got off Andy the chain man before he retired.
As part of maintenance i pull the chain off at every oil change, soak the chain in kero for a few hours, clean it and look for any tight links and free them up if i find any, after clean and inspection i soak the chain in a tube of very hot gear oil on the stove before puttig back on the bike.
Been doing this from day one of owning my Norton, i very rarely ever re adjust my chain and my Norton has clocked up over 160k miles since ownership.
My last chain before i replaced it with Andy the chainman chain it had done over 40k and when i laid it beside the new chain it had very little stretch in it so cut the new chain to it length.
I only lube my chain when the rollers show a bit of shine with GB oil after a ride when the chain is still warm.
I don't use O or X ring chain on my Norton just stock heavy duty chains.

Ash

 

[ilikevelos]

I mean alternating the chains every 500 miles, or so.
Personally I use 520 x ring and replace them at slightly over 1% stretch.

I agree. On most bikes I use a good x-ring chain and starting with new sprockets, use the chain until it needs the second adjustment after break-in and replace before damaging the sprockets. Then I change the chain only and with the second chain run it longer but replace the sprockets with the second chain. I am using the first x ring chain on my combat now(first x-ring chain on a Norton) and will likely follow the same practice.

Sometime this year I will recommission a Mk2 850 I bought with 9500 original miles and reasonably good paint. On that I will try to use the narrow x ring chain from rk, designated rk 530UWR. I believe this is usable on most british bikes with the original 3/8 sprocket widths. IF it doen't work on a norton I am sure I have a british bike with slightly more clearance to use it on.

I like x-ring chains because they require less lube and less maintanence. I suspect they cost about this same over time but are more convenient for me.

Cheers to all.