Swapped Boyer for Tri-Spark

[motoalchemist]

I did the same with the previous model Tri-0005A (cw) & Tri-0005B (ccw). The current model Tri-0006 (works both cw and ccw) is a little harder to get exact statically especially for us who are millimeter challenged. You can certainly get them close enough to start and idle, but I do recommend strobing them. And, of course, make sure your timing marks are right before doing any of it.

View attachment 121582

Very important recent update to setting the timing

 

[Cuppy]

I put on a Tri-006 latest version about a year ago, replacing very old Boyer. Had the bike about 20 years. I haven’t been riding it much with work and other bikes but earlier this year when riding I had kickbacks which was unusual, being familiar with start process etc and having checked timing several times. I contacted Tri-Spark and they tested the unit, found a fault, and arranged a replacement with very speedy service. No problems so far on new unit, and excellent service from Steve Kelly and team!

Mine is doing the same thing and also a TRI-006. If they weren't 7 oceans away I would send it out for testing.

 

[Schwany]

The Boyers have been around for a long time as my workshop manual has a high-performance section at the back, and they say to add a Boyer ignition for a performance upgrade I brought the workshop manual back in 1978, I built my motor to the stage one performance upgrade when converting my 850 to the Featherbed frame with a few other extra upgrades in 1980.
As I said earlier my Boyer was on the Norton for 32 years before I went down the Joe Hunt way and was still working good when I replaced it.

A Joe Hunt on the end of the camshaft is probably really nice and provides accurate ignition timing and a chubby spark. The Trispark with a big Harley dual coil does put out a nice spark as well. And frankly discounting all my previous cheap coil errors with the install and the whining, it is the best ignition I've used on a Norton.

I have a big memory gap between 1969 and when I got married the first time, and can't actually remember when that was at this moment. I didn't go EI until the 1990's when I made some nutty changes to my P11 while on sabbatical from a high tech silicon valley job, and Boyer ignition was carried by everybody selling British bike parts in the 90's. Hence I went with Boyer. I liked the ignition curve of the Boyer and contrary to the hubbub on the internet it did work with 2 12V oil filled old tech coils. Anywho, the Boyer was no where near as easy to setup as TriSpark, but it worked well.

 

[gpzkat]

Well, my little old Wassel-Vape EI...been on the bike now 8 yrs, 25k miles....only kicked back once when I diddled with a scosh more advance....put it right back to where it was happiest (28-29 BTDC) and never again kicked back...starts mostly 1st/2nd kicks hot or cold...nearly never more than 4 or 5 kicks. I put that down to kick technique/engine rotation point before the big push. Dual Amal Premiers, no chokes.

I put a Wassell Micro-MK2 in a small housing in place of the magneto on my N15CS with a single coil and a new 3-phase 200W alternator (probably overkill). I'm very happy with it. Only 2 years now and a couple of thousand miles, but almost always first kick cold and always first kick when hot (if over 75°F , it's a sure bet from a cold start). It has never had an issue. If under 75°F or so, I kick it over moderately with the key off and the single Mikuni VM34 enrichener 'on', then key on, enrichener off. It's always good. I fixed up a Commando with a Boyer and it was very sensitive to timing, 29 was the spot, and it was also most times first kick with a tickle from the Amals when cold, and 100% first time hot. So the only variable is the fuel/air, not the ignition.

 

[The yaki]

My problem with the pazon was the rotor magnets were not reaching out far enough to trip the stators pins. It was better after carefully shimming out the rotor with carefully made shims from feeler gauges. Still couldn't kick start. With the trispark It now kicks 1'st or 2'nd. Jetting, filter etc is as was. Tried rejetting with pazon to no avail and returned to normal . It did kick fairly easily with the original boyer but needed full battery. The trispark works better than both previous igns. I've got a VM 36. Seems most of you have 34's when fitting a mikuni. Different thread methinks. Roy. Hmm.

 

[concours]

The "thing" about this kind of thread is that there are always other variables present when we make our conclusions and those variable differ from bike to bike.

The answer, to the variables, was in the very first post:

"But for some reason I just have a hard time when it's cold. My brother seems to be able to start it when it's cold but I just have never figured it out."

 

[Carl H]

The answer, to the variables, was in the very first post:

"But for some reason I just have a hard time when it's cold. My brother seems to be able to start it when it's cold but I just have never figured it out."

My big variable was I was no longer able to kick them hard enough (spin the engine fast enough) to trigger the Boyers. So I had my brother or a friend start the bikes. I solved it my putting an E star in the Combat and riding my MK3 with a good battery and stock MK3 starter that is properly maintained. My bikes all have the OEM chokes and with the lean/clean jetting I use they are mandatory to start and keep my bikes running smoothly during warm up. My riders always loved the way my Amals responded on the track as a matter of fact I did too.

 

[Carl H]

This is an Indepth Cycle World discussion on carbs and ignitions the last 15 minutes get to the point and Tri Sparks are mentioned. There are a few other things that make Commandos work but it starts with basics and matching parts well.

 

[acotrel]

I use a Boyer with a double-ended CB750 coil. I am very careful to avoid moving the timing. The ignition timing, fuel type, compression ratio and jetting - all form a balance. If the ignition timing moves, I would need to adjust the jetting to regain performance. The amount of jetting error which causes a serious loss of power is 3/5ths of a mosquito's fart.

 

[Triton Thrasher]

The amount of jetting error which causes a serious loss of power is 3/5ths of a mosquito's fart.

Is that a rich fart or a weak fart?

 

[concours]

I use a Boyer with a double-ended CB750 coil. I am very careful to avoid moving the timing. The ignition timing, fuel type, compression ratio and jetting - all form a balance. If the ignition timing moves, I would need to adjust the jetting to regain performance. The amount of jetting error which causes a serious loss of power is 3/5ths of a mosquito's fart.

Methanol? Or gasoline?

 

[baz]

Methanol? Or gasoline?

Hot air?

 

[Geeza]

Mine is doing the same thing and also a TRI-006. If they weren't 7 oceans away I would send it out for testing.

I am in Noo Zealand which is one ocean away from the Tri-Spark team in Australia, and it was no big deal to courier old one to them and they tested and then couriered replacement new unit back. I had bought direct from them, online. Maybe the place you purchased would check and replace if necessary - after all they should stand behind it, right?

 

[Cuppy]

Yes but the seller thinks it's operator error and not likely the Tri-Spark.

 

[johnfitzw]

"Anybody with a Commando ever ride through Death Valley in July with a TriSpark ignition?"

Yeah, I have. Mid July, 116F when I left Pahrump. Zero ssues with the TriSpark... but the crankshaft didn't make it. Nor did the cases..

 

[Schwany]

Schwany said:
"Anybody with a Commando ever ride through Death Valley in July with a TriSpark ignition?"

johnfitzw said: "Yeah, I have. Mid July, 116F when I left Pahrump. Zero ssues with the TriSpark... but the crankshaft didn't make it. Nor did the cases.. "

Death Valley is a long way from New Zealand. Expensive journey for you with the added bonus of blowing up a Norton.