Another Rear Shock Option

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May 28, 2013
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Just want to share the result of my rear shock experiment with the group, I put the spare rear shocks off my BMW R100 on my commando when the commando shocks lost their damping. They will fit with some fettling. The big advantage of the BMW shocks is an additional inch of travel. The BMW shocks are slightly longer so some pre-compression is required to install. From IKON site 76-3005 BASIX 13.19 inch with 3.15 travel whereas Norton 76-3044 12.99 with 2.01 travel. The ride is very plush and I can easily take big potholes and speed bumps just like my BMW. Would recommend if you want your bike to be more of a cruiser.

George
 
I brought a set of Koni shocks for my Norton back in 1978 and they still on the bike, they were rebuilt about 15 years a go when one blew the main seal, Ikon had the rebuild kit for both shocks for $40 and wasn't a hard job to rebuild the hardest part was getting the damper top undone as my pin spanner kept bending, ended up using a pipe wench on it so not bad for 47 year old shocks that are still working as good as the day I brought them new, but when I put new oil in them I went up in the oil weight and had to reset the settings for the heavier oil, my Norton is not for cruising, its for fanging up in the tight range twisties and cranking it right to the edge of the tyres.
A mate gave me a near new set of Ikon shocks the same as my old Koni shocks he brought them new but one spring the paint was chipping so he replace them with a set of Gazi shocks, the Ikons sit under my work bench just waiting for the old Koni's to die.
The old Koni shocks have proven themselves for easy adjustments, reliable, great handling and long life, they were expensive shocks back in the day $240 near 4 weeks wages at the time.
Longer shocks on my Norton would just upset the handling.
 
I brought a set of Koni shocks for my Norton back in 1978 and they still on the bike, they were rebuilt about 15 years a go when one blew the main seal, Ikon had the rebuild kit for both shocks for $40 and wasn't a hard job to rebuild the hardest part was getting the damper top undone as my pin spanner kept bending, ended up using a pipe wench on it so not bad for 47 year old shocks that are still working as good as the day I brought them new, but when I put new oil in them I went up in the oil weight and had to reset the settings for the heavier oil, my Norton is not for cruising, its for fanging up in the tight range twisties and cranking it right to the edge of the tyres.
A mate gave me a near new set of Ikon shocks the same as my old Koni shocks he brought them new but one spring the paint was chipping so he replace them with a set of Gazi shocks, the Ikons sit under my work bench just waiting for the old Koni's to die.
The old Koni shocks have proven themselves for easy adjustments, reliable, great handling and long life, they were expensive shocks back in the day $240 near 4 weeks wages at the time.
Longer shocks on my Norton would just upset the handling.
I also installed a set of Ikons that have worked well for me. I like that they can be rebuilt and have settings for both pre-load and compression plus great support from the US vendor.Fit nicely even with the large chain guard.
Mike
 
I settled for a new pair of Hagon shocks which are working well for me as the originals seemed to have little compression movement under load.
 
Just want to share the result of my rear shock experiment with the group, I put the spare rear shocks off my BMW R100 on my commando when the commando shocks lost their damping. They will fit with some fettling. The big advantage of the BMW shocks is an additional inch of travel. The BMW shocks are slightly longer so some pre-compression is required to install. From IKON site 76-3005 BASIX 13.19 inch with 3.15 travel whereas Norton 76-3044 12.99 with 2.01 travel. The ride is very plush and I can easily take big potholes and speed bumps just like my BMW. Would recommend if you want your bike to be more of a cruiser.

George
What's the "fettling" you're talking about? Does the bike sit higher now?
 
More travel on the rear suspension often helps the steering geometry to make the bike corner better. If the trail increases more when you accelerate, oversteer in the correct direction can happen - it means more throttle can be used in the middle of corners. On the Suzuki T250 racer I built - I cut the top mounts for the rear shocks off the frame and swapped them over to the other sides. It meant the tops of the shocks - instead of being 3 inches back, were 3 inches forward and down. It raised the back of the bike about 1 inch, but gave more travel - the handling was excellent. When you need to countersteer to get the bike to tip into corners - that is understeer. If the bike understeers going into corners, it will also tend to understeer as you accelerate out of corners, and tend to run wide. You will sometimes notice a bike might corner better when you carry a pillion passenger.
It is more difficult to discover improvement when riding on public roads. On race tracks, the corners repeat more frequently.
With Koni rear shocks, if you do not have enough damping, the rear wheel bounces more, and it feels as though the problem is with the front forks. It can destroy your confidence.
When you ride a motorcycle, your brain is back to front. If you concentrate on the rear wheel's contact patch with the road, everything happens in reverse. You need to sense what happens when you accelerate and brake when on a lean. If the bike oversteers when you accelerate on a lean, you can really give it the berries. You need smooth power delivery, rather than horsepower.
 
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My frame is 1957 Dominator 99, so not directly relevant to the Commando, but I’m using Emgo shocks with the eyes filed narrower to fit, and Koni stickers applied to the shrouds.

They seem fine.
 
Just want to share the result of my rear shock experiment with the group, I put the spare rear shocks off my BMW R100 on my commando when the commando shocks lost their damping. They will fit with some fettling. The big advantage of the BMW shocks is an additional inch of travel. The BMW shocks are slightly longer so some pre-compression is required to install. From IKON site 76-3005 BASIX 13.19 inch with 3.15 travel whereas Norton 76-3044 12.99 with 2.01 travel. The ride is very plush and I can easily take big potholes and speed bumps just like my BMW. Would recommend if you want your bike to be more of a cruiser.

George
Boge shocks I suppose? I had them like forever on my N 15, but with longer (double) springs. Only last week l replaced them with Fournalès air shocks. They are a little bit more comfortable, but not much. Did 600 km today on my way to SW France.
Lying in my tent now, cooling of from a very hot day, with nothing better to do..
 
Boge shocks I suppose? I had them like forever on my N 15, but with longer (double) springs. Only last week l replaced them with Fournalès air shocks. They are a little bit more comfortable, but not much. Did 600 km today on my way to SW France.
Lying in my tent now, cooling of from a very hot day, with nothing better to do..
You have certainly chosen the hottest time to visit the SW.
 
Longer shocks on my Norton would just upset the handling.
They would certainly have an effect that you would notice, as Al comments, it is something racers do to sharpen steering.

You may not want that, particularly after being happy with the handling for many years.

I think in general terms, shock lengths chosen by manufacturers in the '50s/'60s/'70s were too short, probably driven by available technology in damping as well as tyres. An inch longer isn't radical. The shocks on my Rickman are 2" longer than the originals, and I am happy with that.

The only way to know if longer shocks would suit you is to try them.

I'm not suggesting you should, but it might suit others when it comes to replacement time.
 
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