Push Rod Tunnels

[NORTSTER1974]

What do you blokes use to stop the flow of oil up the 2 studs on the cylinders that have been drilled to deep by the factory and have broken through into the push rod tunnel. I'm not trying to start an oil thread. Thanks

 

[marshg246]

What do you blokes use to stop the flow of oil up the 2 studs on the cylinders that have been drilled to deep by the factory and have broken through into the push rod tunnel. I'm not trying to start an oil thread. Thanks

Clean them the stud and cylinder threads and liberally blue Loctite the studs in. Then I put a smear of silicone on the studs before installing the head.

If you don't want to remove the head, you can put silicone on the studs from above, then put the washers on and then the nuts - that sometime will seal them but leaves a mess behind that is not easy to cleanup.

I use this one but I think any clear RTV would be fine: https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-details-2/18674

 

[NORTSTER1974]

Thanks Greg, the head is already removed. Just tired of looking at oil leaks. The Harley leaks less than the Norton.

 

[Matchless]

Thanks Greg, the head is already removed. Just tired of looking at oil leaks. The Harley leaks less than the Norton.

Have you tried starting the Harley?

 

[Mart UK]

Put some oil in it, before you try starting it?

 

[NORTSTER1974]

Have you tried starting the Harley?

Always fires, one push of the button. Plus it's 22 years newer than the Norton. A 96 model. An EVO motor. No leaks. Pushrods are accessible from the outside. Tubes with O rings. Plus you can fit adjustable pushrods. You can even replace the lifters without removing the jugs. It's amazing what they did in 22 years. Easier than working on your lawnmower.

 

[MikeG]

I have an oil leak as well after installing a solid copper gasket. Annealed it and used coppercoat sealer as well as putting a thin ring of copper bell wire around pushrod tunnels. What is yhe other leak point then? From the studs themselves?

 

[NORTSTER1974]

Yes from the two studs at the front of the cylinders. On some cylinders the factory bored too deep for the studs. If you stick your finger down the tunnel you can feel it.

 

[MikeG]

Yes from the two studs at the front of the cylinders. On some cylinders the factory bored too deep for the studs. If you stick your finger down the tunnel you can feel it.

Can it be felt with the head on?

 

[marshg246]

Can it be felt with the head on?

No, but if you have oil around those two studs/nuts, them you can bet that's the problem.

 

[cliffa]

Yes from the two studs at the front of the cylinders. On some cylinders the factory bored too deep for the studs. If you stick your finger down the tunnel you can feel it.

Do you have a reed valve in the crankcase breather? If not installing one may help.

 

[MikeG]

Yes,Comstock sump breather. Did not have any leaks before new head gasket. Changing to composite gasket.

 

[concours]

Yes,Comstock sump breather. Did not have any leaks before new head gasket. Changing to composite gasket.

Did you check head & cylinder surface for flatness when apart?

 

[MikeG]

Did you check head & cylinder surface for flatness when apart?

Yes

 

[cliffa]

Yes,Comstock sump breather. Did not have any leaks before new head gasket. Changing to composite gasket.

I was actually asking @NORTSTER1974

 

[NORTSTER1974]

Yes Cliffa I do have a breather set up nothing fancy. I pulled the head it's obvious that one of the front studs is broke through into the tunnel. I can't believe I didn't poop it prior to assembly the last time. Probably just use the wrong type of poop. I have a freshly rebuilt head ready to go. Plus new copper and flame ring gaskets. If I go with the copper again I'm going to use the Jim Schmidt method with the .005 wire around the tunnels in pliobond for the head gasket sealer. I'm tempted to just use it flame ring.

 

[marshg246]

Yes Cliffa I do have a breather set up nothing fancy. I pulled the head it's obvious that one of the front studs is broke through into the tunnel. I can't believe I didn't poop it prior to assembly the last time. Probably just use the wrong type of poop. I have a freshly rebuilt head ready to go. Plus new copper and flame ring gaskets. If I go with the copper again I'm going to use the Jim Schmidt method with the .005 wire around the tunnels in pliobond for the head gasket sealer. I'm tempted to just use it flame ring.

In either case, you need to address those studs. See post #2 this thread.

 

[MikeG]

Clean them the stud and cylinder threads and liberally blue Loctite the studs in. Then I put a smear of silicone on the studs before installing the head.

If you don't want to remove the head, you can put silicone on the studs from above, then put the washers on and then the nuts - that sometime will seal them but leaves a mess behind that is not easy to cleanup.

I use this one but I think any clear RTV would be fine: https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-details-2/18674

Greg not sure I follow you about putting silicone on from above with head still on?

 

[marshg246]

Greg not sure I follow you about putting silicone on from above with head still on?

The oil "climbs" the studs. If you can force some silicone down them you can stop the leak. Even if you don't force it down, you may at least partly stop the leak with silicone under the washers. Of course, the real way is to remove the head. It takes only a small amount on the studs with the hear off to prevent the leak in the first place.

I can't find it right now, but there is AN document that describes what to do.

 

[MexicoMike]

"Easier than working on your lawnmower." [ re '96 Harley]

With pretty much the same brakes, handling, and power as the lawnmower. Been there...