LED Instrument

Although I'm not an electrician, my understanding is:
1. Polarity can be important - not difficult to overcome - just test on a battery beforehand to get it right.
2. Depending in the LED you may have to put a small resistor in series with it for it to work - again, test beforehand. Some say in parallel, but that's only to limit current - if necessary. I have not found that to be so.
I have done both of the above and have not come across a LED that won't work on an old bike.
Cheers
 
The LED bulbs I got from Greg Marsh were a plug and play. I have not had any problems with them.
Mike
 
Does anybody know if LED lights will work in the instrument panel on a 75 850?
Sounds like you have a MK3. I don't know of replacement bulbs that are LED for them (doesn't mean there are none, I just haven't seen any.)

I use these: https://a.co/d/eDCIZkC

They are available in all the required colors and the housings are available in silver or black. They do not look exactly like the originals but they look really good. They can be wired to work in a positive or negative ground bike. The wiring effort is significant.

You can see how I wire them and what they look like installed here: https://gregmarsh.com/MC/Norton/Norton_1975_Wiring.aspx
 
There are a few options but warning lights don't use enough power to warrant too much work ??. All mine were from this mob including speedo and rev counter.
 

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The ones that I got from Paul Goff in the UK for my Mk111 were a simple plug in, and the light in the instruments at night is brilliant, pun intended!
 
Not for the console I think you have to start joining wires. Previous threads ? Do yours work ?
The replacement LEDs I sell work everywhere but the MK3 console. When I wire a MK3, I replace the housing and it includes the LED. See my post #5 this thread. Post #9 this thread says that Leo Goff has replacement LED "bulbs" for the MK3 housings, if I read it right.
 
The ones that I got from Paul Goff in the UK for my Mk111 were a simple plug in, and the light in the instruments at night is brilliant, pun intended!
Can you send a link - I've looked at his site several times for these and have never found them.
 
Thanks for all the info. Some prior owner replaced these at some point with ones that were made for something else. The holes were drilled out to about 7/8 . Some of the wires were just put through the hole in contact and twisted .
 
Sounds like you have a MK3. I don't know of replacement bulbs that are LED for them (doesn't mean there are none, I just haven't seen any.)

I use these: https://a.co/d/eDCIZkC
Hi Greg, they look very nice, but how is daylight readability? The "lens" (if there is any) is rather small. The original incandescent bulbs may not have been great either, but holder lenses are larger.

- Knut
 
Hi Greg, they look very nice, but how is daylight readability? The "lens" (if there is any) is rather small. The original incandescent bulbs may not have been great either, but holder lenses are larger.

- Knut
Excellent!

I was testing in a brightly lit shop:

LED Instrument
 
Can you send a link - I've looked at his site several times for these and have never found them.
The code is LDT10DW, for the capless wedge 10mm Mk111 instrument lights. http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffyleds.htm

Hope that this helps.



[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]This is our latest LED for daytime riding/driving. Very bright. Can be used for positive or negative earth.
Ideal for fitting onto the headlight reflector instead of the pilot light. Also great for speedos Only 12V versions
10MM capless fitting 12MM max. OD Overall length 30MM or 24.5 with the diffuser removed where space is tight
It can be supplied complete with a rubber holder to fit into 14 - 16MM dia. holes in the reflector though can be adapted for many other locations.
They consume only 1.5W
Pt.no. With holder LDT10DWH £9.95
Pt.no. With holder LDT10DWH6V £9.95
Pt.no. Without holder LDT10DW £4.00
Pt.no. Without holder LDT10DW6V £4.00
LED Instrument
[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Shorter version 28MM
12V only. Ideal for speedo/rev counters.
Pt.no. LDT10X5 £3.00
Pt.no. with holderLDT10x5 WH £8.95
[/FONT]
 
The code is LDT10DW, for the capless wedge 10mm Mk111 instrument lights. http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffyleds.htm

Hope that this helps.




[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]This is our latest LED for daytime riding/driving. Very bright. Can be used for positive or negative earth.
Ideal for fitting onto the headlight reflector instead of the pilot light. Also great for speedos Only 12V versions
10MM capless fitting 12MM max. OD Overall length 30MM or 24.5 with the diffuser removed where space is tight
It can be supplied complete with a rubber holder to fit into 14 - 16MM dia. holes in the reflector though can be adapted for many other locations.
They consume only 1.5W
Pt.no. With holder LDT10DWH £9.95
Pt.no. With holder LDT10DWH6V £9.95
Pt.no. Without holder LDT10DW £4.00
Pt.no. Without holder LDT10DW6V £4.00

LED Instrument
[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Shorter version 28MM
12V only. Ideal for speedo/rev counters.
Pt.no. LDT10X5 £3.00
Pt.no. with holderLDT10x5 WH £8.95

[/FONT]
Those are instrument lights -available many places. This discussion is about the console warning lights.
 
I recently fitted a new console due to missing anchor point and found the wires were coming off the bulbs. I just fitted ye-olde 70's car dash lights sourced from Ebay . Just fitted spades ! A minimal ream of holes? Easily removed luckily while dropping the headlamp down for later work. How many lamps on at the same time ?? 1 ? Can't think a need for led's for warning lights unless crap alternator ?
 

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Sounds like you have a MK3. I don't know of replacement bulbs that are LED for them (doesn't mean there are none, I just haven't seen any.)

I use these: https://a.co/d/eDCIZkC
I am fitting these LEDs to my Mk3 console as well. However, the original bore is 9mm plus a small slot for locking, while the LED's housing is 8mm only.
Because of this dimensional mismatch, the rubber seal that is supposed to sit below the LED's head slips into the gap. I believe you (Greg) resorted to fitting the seals from below, but this doesn't solve the problem.
Now, I could fill the holes and drill them for the correct diameter, but grinding the inside and outside after solidification is a PITA, so I was thinking of drilling the holes ø10mm and fitting some small shouldered brass bushes.
The shoulders would be fitted inside out. This sounds like a lot of work though. Other ideas?

- Knut
 
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