Use this method to lock primary when tightening the rotor sleeve nut to 70ft/lb or just asking for trouble?

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Jdub

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With the clutch basket locking tool I can rest the end against the 1/2 " nut with rubber protection. Will this handle the task?

I could instead install the footrest and swap the footrest to the inside for the same purpose IF I can get the tool arm far enough out to purchase firmly on the footrest spindle.
Use this method to lock primary when tightening the rotor sleeve nut to 70ft/lb or just asking for trouble?
 
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With the clutch basket locking tool I can rest the end against the 1/2 " nut with rubber protection. Will this handle the task?

I could instead install the footrest and swap the footrest to the inside for the same purpose IF I can get the tool arm far enough out to purchase firmly on the footrest spindle.

View attachment 104652View attachment 104652
I reckon it'll handle the task
Also personally I'd throw that clutch center tab washer away and just use loctite
 
That looks like a pretty robust handle, so it should be OK. The handle on mine isn't at all robust, so bent out of the way the first time I tried something like that with it. Now I have to put the bike in 4th gear, fit the footrest and brake pedal, then press down on the brake pedal as hard as I'm pressing on the torque wrench. That all works, the clutch locking tool behaves like a locked up clutch so it connects the engine to the rear wheel.
 

Use this method to lock primary when tightening the rotor sleeve nut to 70ft/lb or just asking for trouble?
Yes - but not shown there (and slightly off-topic)...
I would never try to loosen or tighten the nut on the camshaft without a tool to support the intermedivte shaft.
Cheers
 
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With the clutch basket locking tool I can rest the end against the 1/2 " nut with rubber protection. Will this handle the task?

I could instead install the footrest and swap the footrest to the inside for the same purpose IF I can get the tool arm far enough out to purchase firmly on the footrest spindle.
View attachment 104653
That's how I do it. Tightening one side, loosening the other.
 
Thanks to all and LAB I never would have found that image - thank you!

To answer, I did blue Loctite on the clutch center nut. The tabbed washer did make me pull more material from the nut and the oil seal surfaces to get it mounted without touching one another.
 
Thanks to all and LAB I never would have found that image - thank you!

To answer, I did blue Loctite on the clutch center nut. The tabbed washer did make me pull more material from the nut and the oil seal surfaces to get it mounted without touching one another.
Nord-Lock washers work great if your doubtful of the locktite...its what I've used...the tab washer is crap
 
Interesting that cNw offers a pair of Belleview Washers in lieu of the OEM tab washer in their
electric starter kit. At least they did on my kit, one of the first out of the Shute. Torque down
till both are flat.
 
Thanks to all and LAB I never would have found that image - thank you!

To answer, I did blue Loctite on the clutch center nut. The tabbed washer did make me pull more material from the nut and the oil seal surfaces to get it mounted without touching one another.
I used a half inch deep drive socket I had instead of the tool in #2
 
Interesting that cNw offers a pair of Belleview Washers in lieu of the OEM tab washer in their
electric starter kit. At least they did on my kit, one of the first out of the Shute. Torque down
till both are flat.
Same as mine last year. Belleville
 
Belleville Washers are a lot better solution compaired to the stock tab washer ...but if you have fasteners that have to deal with vibration etc....Nord-Lock washers in those type applications are far better... imo
 
Belleville Washers are a lot better solution compaired to the stock tab washer ...but if you have fasteners that have to deal with vibration etc....Nord-Lock washers in those type applications are far better... imo
I tried a Belleville washer alone and the nut eventually loosened up on me while riding...A Belleville washer PLUS blue threadlocker has worked well since then. Will read up on Nord-Lock.
 
Thanks to all and LAB I never would have found that image - thank you!

To answer, I did blue Loctite on the clutch center nut. The tabbed washer did make me pull more material from the nut and the oil seal surfaces to get it mounted without touching one another.
The problem with the tab washer is that since it is soft (and it has to be so that you can bend the ears) it thins under pressure and over time and the nut becomes loose.
 
I tried a Belleville washer alone and the nut eventually loosened up on me while riding...A Belleville washer PLUS blue threadlocker has worked well since then. Will read up on Nord-Lock.
They can be a little pricey but they won't let you down...a mate of mine uses them on CNC turret punch machines etc
 

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They can be a little pricey but they won't let you down...a mate of mine uses them on CNC turret punch machines etc
Good to know, and FWIW Shimano bicycle freehubs use a similar toothed locking system and they are dead reliable in my experience. The Belleville washers are not so cheap in the US either and I had to buy 10 minimum, I sold the surplus off to people here at cost a few years ago.
 
I tried a Belleville washer alone and the nut eventually loosened up on me while riding...A Belleville washer PLUS blue threadlocker has worked well since then. Will read up on Nord-Lock.
Bellevilles are not designed to lock the nut (maybe even makes it easier to undo, due to the hardened, conical surface)
They are solely designed to provide a designed amount of bolt/stud pre-load.
 
With the clutch basket locking tool I can rest the end against the 1/2 " nut with rubber protection. Will this handle the task?

I could instead install the footrest and swap the footrest to the inside for the same purpose IF I can get the tool arm far enough out to purchase firmly on the footrest spindle.
View attachment 104653
Used something similar to this method a couple of weeks ago. no problem.
 
Belleville washers are typically used in conditions of high current loading or cycling....They are used to absorb vibration and can maintain preload in bolted joints, indicating correct preload based on the gap between adjacent washers etc....
 
I just put it in gear and put a bar across one of the spokes near the rim, and let the chain drive it up against the swing arm as Iighten the nut. The diameter of the rear wheel minimises the load. The ratio of wheel to pole nut diameter, is pretty big.
 
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