Everything is connected

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Jun 19, 2022
Messages
31
Country flag
I rarely cease to be impressed how everything is connected.

Following a summer with a reasonably running Norton, except for unwillingness to start on the kicker and periodic stuttering on hard acceleration and my replacing parts looking for solutions, not knowing for sure if the problem was fuel/air or electric, or both, I had the bright idea to charge up the battery overnight. Guess what? On the second kick the machine started and, when warmed up, accelerated smoothly and powerfully...

Now this is the question to the far more knowledgeable than myself: What does that demonstrate, apart from my ignorance?
 
I rarely cease to be impressed how everything is connected.

Following a summer with a reasonably running Norton, except for unwillingness to start on the kicker and periodic stuttering on hard acceleration and my replacing parts looking for solutions, not knowing for sure if the problem was fuel/air or electric, or both, I had the bright idea to charge up the battery overnight. Guess what? On the second kick the machine started and, when warmed up, accelerated smoothly and powerfully...

Now this is the question to the far more knowledgeable than myself: What does that demonstrate, apart from my ignorance?
Probably your charging system needs looking at. Go through it all, connections, wiring, switches etc. How old is the harness? What output is the alternator giving? still on a zener? or a later rectifier/regulator?
 
I rarely cease to be impressed how everything is connected.

Following a summer with a reasonably running Norton, except for unwillingness to start on the kicker and periodic stuttering on hard acceleration and my replacing parts looking for solutions, not knowing for sure if the problem was fuel/air or electric, or both, I had the bright idea to charge up the battery overnight. Guess what? On the second kick the machine started and, when warmed up, accelerated smoothly and powerfully...

Now this is the question to the far more knowledgeable than myself: What does that demonstrate, apart from my ignorance?
Could also be sheer coincidence, with temperature, fuel or other variables.
Too vague to claim victory.
 
I rarely cease to be impressed how everything is connected.

Following a summer with a reasonably running Norton, except for unwillingness to start on the kicker and periodic stuttering on hard acceleration and my replacing parts looking for solutions, not knowing for sure if the problem was fuel/air or electric, or both, I had the bright idea to charge up the battery overnight. Guess what? On the second kick the machine started and, when warmed up, accelerated smoothly and powerfully...

Now this is the question to the far more knowledgeable than myself: What does that demonstrate, apart from my ignorance?
It demonstrates you should always check battery charge and condition before spending money on other parts! :rolleyes:
 
Thanks for all your replies.
IN summary, check all the connections and connectors for good contact. Test all the components in the circuit. Perhaps replace outdated components with newer, more reliable components. First, do a crash course in motorcycle electrics and wiring systems and how to test the various elements...
 
If ign switch old or original, could quite easily account for your experience. The fresh battery charge up could just mean the poor ign switch contacts with high resistance was overcome by a full battery voltage.
 
Don't forget that the kill button is "normally closed" and feeds the coils. The contacts within must also me in good condition or weak/no spark.
 
Don't forget that the kill button is "normally closed" and feeds the coils. The contacts within must also me in good condition or weak/no spark.
Yes indeed. The normally closed kill switch is so easily overlooked.
 
My own Commando became hard to start and ran poorly a few months ago and that turned out to be a failing battery...in my case an Odyssey PC545 that lasted 12 years so I replaced it with another.
An LED voltage monitor let me know that the charging system had a problem, FWIW I have the LED mounted behind a stock amber jewel in the headlight shell and that works well.

Everything is connected
 
My own Commando became hard to start and ran poorly a few months ago and that turned out to be a failing battery...in my case an Odyssey PC545 that lasted 12 years so I replaced it with another.
An LED voltage monitor let me know that the charging system had a problem, FWIW I have the LED mounted behind a stock amber jewel in the headlight shell and that works well.

Everything is connected
So the LED colors come thru the amber jewel ok?
 
So the LED colors come thru the amber jewel ok?
Yep, easily visible and another nice feature of this unit is that if voltage holds steady the green LE D dims to half brightness after maybe 30 seconds or so. Here is a video I recorded years ago when I installed it.

 
Went to the site.
Was it easy to hook up to Positive ground ?
Reviews say the LED light is too bright , but there are ways around that .
 
Went to the site.
Was it easy to hook up to Positive ground ?
Reviews say the LED light is too bright , but there are ways around that .
Positive ground is no problem, works fine on my bike, I did the hookups within the headlight and installed the box in there too. It could be that the LED is too bright by itself but I don't feel that is the case when it is behind a jewel as in the video and would not want it to be any dimmer than it is.
 
justin case nobodys said it ,

The CONNECTORS . If they Are Not a Firm Fit , it can all turn to custard .

Building a wiring loom , or overhauling one , or CHECKING ONE , Every Connector needs to be ' fettled ' if its not a FIRM Contact .

The Nasty stuck brass cylinder machined connectors are specialy designed to stick , so you grab the housing firmly , and HAUL .
This cuts a neat 4 mm diameter trench across your fingers . So Pliars might be a better alternative .

Everything is connected
Everything is connected
Everything is connected


The horrible plated tin connectors are often missized , so need the custom reworking to get ' blueprint ' specification .
=================================================================================

Any impedance and the electrickery takes an alternate track . Elsewhere . C.R.C. / WD 40 drenching keeps out bogeymen .
And gives a ' oiled bolt ' perception on the FIT .

A rittle story , Missfire on the Automobile past 1/2 rpm 7 slight uneveness , for months .
Id already checked the spade connector , Not surgically clean or particularly tight ,
but dindnt have pliers on hand ( big square end ones are best for full length of split tube . )

So , One Day , at the causeway , top . Stop - flip bonnet , pull connector - grip , test check fit .
A whole sixty seconds . Redline , redline , redline . S M O O T H - clean - no hesitation ,
just like you need for overtaking .

ONE slightly unfirm fit at the ignition to coil & Id been putting up with the stutter For MONTHS .

The Moral being , ALL fittings / Connectors must be ' as new ' fit . And keep out the damp , even if there isnt any. And DONT pull those bullet connectors out bare fingered .

Everything is connected


These need Each Side tweaking ,
for a firm grip . like wot above .
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top