Clutch not releasing

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Greetings,
The clutch on my 1973 850 Commando is not releasing properly. Looking at the clutch hub and the friction plates, may I ask our community where do you think my problem lies.
The clutch hub has the notches set into it and the teeth on the plates look well worn.
Thanks,
Ken Hiebert


 
Go to Andover website and compare yours to new ones..
I'd say both well past their 'sell by' date...
 
What plates do you have? Looks like 4 bronze ones and maybe an odd one. Soft hubs and bronze plates leave these kind of notches, and a draggy clutch. A hardened hub and a set of Barnett plates would fix this. And fit a clutch push rod seal if you haven't already.

FWIW
 
Clutch centre is the problem here but looking at the centre of your plates I think they too have had their day.

Dave
 
Greetings,
The clutch on my 1973 850 Commando is not releasing properly. Looking at the clutch hub and the friction plates, may I ask our community where do you think my problem lies.
The clutch hub has the notches set into it and the teeth on the plates look well worn.

The (hardened) centre is showing the typical wear notching.
The middle three plate locations seem to notch the worst and although hardened the centres are not everlasting:
Clutch not releasing


The 'bronze' plate (friction material is bronze) tangs are the most worn I think I've seen. Has the clutch been used with a 'dry' belt drive?

Looks like 4 bronze ones and maybe an odd one.

All I can see is the same bronze plate (same scuff marks in both pics)?
 
All I can see is the same bronze plate (same scuff marks in both pics)?
That was just a guess....

I personally won't use or advocate the use of bronze plates for the reasons shown here. I am running the old 4 plate fiber clutch in my bike and my dad's 850. They work well and and don't tear up the hub. But they do need periodic "de-oiling".

I have a couple of friends whose bikes I work on that are running Barnett plates. They have reported them to be more tolerant of oil. I have bought a complete spare 850 clutch and a set of Barnett plates to build a 5 plate clutch as a bit of an experiment. Just waiting for my clutch to need cleaning again, then I am going to make the swap.

FWIW
 
Thanks for the response gentlemen.
Yes these are the bronze friction plates and were used with the triple oil bath primary chain.
Sounds like a new clutch hub and a set of Barnett plates is in the making.
The clutch push rod seal is new to me but sounds like a worthwhile addition.
Cheers,
Ken
 
The hub is toast,the basket isn't shown, but may have similar notches, 'can't say. Check the teeth on the basket and engine sprocket; if they are getting a bit sharp then replace it as well. A/N has a good kit that includes all the parts for a complete replacement.

Once you are roadworthy make damn sure that you clear the clutch as the first part of your start-up routine. Your Norton will constantly milk your wallet; getting the primary done right will give you plenty of time to worry about something else; it is just testing you at this point...

Best.
 
"clearing the clutch " would kicking it over with the clutch leaver pulled in?
 
Nothing wrong with bronze plates I am still running my original clutch plates with well over 160k miles on them and after 46 years of running them I have only replaced the clutch centre, sealed bearing, the pressure plate, my clutch is a one/two finger operation if I want to, is a light clutch ever since I have owned it, just part of maintenance is to every so often pull the clutch apart for a good clean and inspection which is all part of maintaining our bikes.
Look like those plates have been slipping to have that much wear on them, what oil has been running in the primary, ATF-F is the best for the clutch and no more than 7 floz just enough to slash on the primary chain.

Ashley
 
CNW sells a hardened clutch center at good price (lower than OEM from AN after currency changes and shipping).

When my original setup was not releasing, removing the plates and throughly cleaning any built up oils really helped. Ultimately though the hub center bas notched heavily so got the CNW. no more sticking but a new issue, the clutch tends to suddenly grab at the very last bit of ease off, as the bike is pulling away from standstill. Doesn't seem to matter how gingerly I release the lever. Time for new plates/Barnetts?
 
CNW sells a hardened clutch center at good price (lower than OEM from AN after currency changes and shipping).

When my original setup was not releasing, removing the plates and throughly cleaning any built up oils really helped. Ultimately though the hub center bas notched heavily so got the CNW. no more sticking but a new issue, the clutch tends to suddenly grab at the very last bit of ease off, as the bike is pulling away from standstill. Doesn't seem to matter how gingerly I release the lever. Time for new plates/Barnetts?
A too tight primary chain / belt can make the clutch grabby…
 
Clutch centre is the problem here but looking at the centre of your plates I think they too have had their day.

Dave
They should have the opposite pattern of the clutch center. They look like shark teeths instead...
 
When changing to Barnett plates, the aluminum host plate will allow ANY replacement hub to survive indefinitely.
 
When changing to Barnett plates, the aluminum host plate will allow ANY replacement hub to survive indefinitely.
Good to know.
Thanks.

I'm also considering an electric start conversion. The way I see it, the clutch repair won't affect the choice of primary case components down the road if I do go to electric start.
 
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