New classic brit bike owner/what have I gotten into?

Your bike has a magneto. The battery, rectifier and charge control (if original zener diode) have nothing to do with the motor starting or running. A healthy Atlas should not be terribly hard to start from cold (hot can be another matter). Do not give it any choke- the lever should be pulled into the "tight" position. Tickle the carb until some gas flows out of the tickler. Kick the bike while on center stand. If bike will not start after a 1/2 dozen solid kicks something is not right. FWIW I can't figure out your carb set up. An original '62 Atlas would have a single Monbloc or two Monoblocs with the right one being "chopped" with no float chamber. You seem to have "handed" Monoblocs - which was a later variation. You also have a Webco float bowl extension - a nice looking piece of questionable utility. Anyway there's nothing wrong with having a non original bike but it can complicate fault finding. If you continue to have difficulty it would definitely be helpful to have a knowledgable nearby person from the list look over the bike.
 
You may want to consider keeping the ether away from your motor. That stuff isn't meant for gas engines. Sounds like no spark....if you had when the ether hit it you may have needed a mitt to catch the pieces.
 
I was reading through some other kickstart help blogs and what not. See if this sounds right.

Treat the kick start more like a ratchet, press down until you feel compression at TDC, keep going through until its lax. Then let the kick lever back up and hit it down and through the stroke.

I had been applying pressure until it went lax, then got all the ass I could behind me and pressed through the stroke. I would be about halfway through the travel of the kickstart lever before getting behind it.
 
I was reading through some other kickstart help blogs and what not. See if this sounds right.

Treat the kick start more like a ratchet, press down until you feel compression at TDC, keep going through until its lax. Then let the kick lever back up and hit it down and through the stroke.

I had been applying pressure until it went lax, then got all the ass I could behind me and pressed through the stroke. I would be about halfway through the travel of the kickstart lever before getting behind it.
There are different kickstart techniques. All have their pros and cons. I just bring the lever up on compression swing myself up in the air and boot it on the way down. If you have an athletic helper you could take the kickstarter out of the equation by pushing the bike and dumping the clutch in first or second. A big hill is also very effective, but then you have to get the bike back up to the top again if it doesn't start.
 
If you are practicing you technique, keep the gas off and bowls empty.
 
The bike does have a magneto. I haven't checked for spark, what should I ground the electrode to? The plugs and plug cables appear new. I will check the gap on them in the morning as well.

Ground the tab on the spark plug to the head ..... any clean spot will do. Simply hold the plug by the plug cap, press against clean engine surface. With both plugs removed from the cylinders, you can get a good spin on the engine. Usually takes a second person .... one to kick and one to ground plug and look for spark.

From your description (reply #39), it seems someone may have wired an external capacitor to replace, or augment, the internal capacitor of the magneto. I cannot tell for sure from your description.

As Bodger says, it would help to have a knowledgeable person look over your bike. Where are you located?

Report back on the grounded spark plug test.

Slick

Edit ..... Reading over previous posts, I see you are in Tampa FL area. Any guys there willing to help? I suspect someone magneto savvy will be required.
 
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I don't know of any in the area with knowledge on these bikes. A friend who was helping me earlier called a few contacts and asked if they had any knowledge about Nortons, the response was "the computer antivirus?"

If the magneto is the issue, I have seen conversions to alternators online, not cheap, but would it be better than a rebuilt magneto?
https://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/STK-102D_-_Ignition_Alternator_Kit.html

I still think I'm just doing something wrong, or something simple is not right. The previous owner had it running recently before my purchase, and since I have received the bike and he still answers my calls and calls back with additional help, I have little reason to doubt that its a runner.

Spark check in the morning, then I will update again. Is there a chance to damage the bike if I try to start it with a hammer drill? :p
 
If you have not drained the sump then you are just wasting your time and wearing out yourself ,the kickstart and centerstand. Use 20/50 oil to avoid drag.
 
The oil is clear and looks fresh, but I will go ahead and drain and replace with 20-50.

It's taking all my weight standing on the kickstart to get past the compression stage, I'm 170lbs, does that sound right?
 
The oil is clear and looks fresh, but I will go ahead and drain and replace with 20-50.

It's taking all my weight standing on the kickstart to get past the compression stage, I'm 170lbs, does that sound right?

Norton Bob makes a good point .... your sump may be so full of oil that the pistons are forcing oil out the breather hose, in which case the engine will behave as you describe. I am 170 lbs and can crank my Atlas, but not if too much oil in sump.

Drain the sump, then do the spark test. Your oil may be OK once you drain the sump .... if it looks fresh, I would re use it ... the dealer most likely used 20W50.
 
I know the sump is full, the tank is bone dry, but you can see oil coming back up the sump hose trying to go back to the tank.

Leads to another question, why would the oil be stock in the sump? I now my Honda has a notorious valve that would stay open and keep all the oil in the sump...
 
The oil is clear and looks fresh, but I will go ahead and drain and replace with 20-50.

It's taking all my weight standing on the kickstart to get past the compression stage, I'm 170lbs, does that sound right?
Just drain the sump if you are sure the oil is fresh. If the sump is full of oil it is a bear to start.
John in Texas
 
Sump is drained and plug is off, I can still stand on the kickstart, as can my buddy who is 260lbs
 
My son has an Atlas which has flat top pistons, even when the rings were completely worn out I could not kick start it, I weigh 13 stone but am not as strong as I used to be. my son with a couple of extra stone and 20 years younger can start it. I have rebuilt the motor with a compression plate under the barrel in the vain hope that it will improve things. I can only suggest you eat like a proper yank and put on another 5 stones!. It was the yanks that demanded the motor be bored out to 750 against the advice of those that knew their job. No good complaining now!!.
 
Im thinking that its somehow stuck in gear, even though it feels like its in neutral. It was much easier to get through compression stage yesterday, and since my buddy who is bit bigger than your son, 18 stone, cant do much better.

Any suggestions on what might be off and keeping the gears engaged, even though its supposed to be in neutral? Worst case scenario, I bumped into a guy who owns a shop 1 town over and is willing to work on it once he gets back from strurgis.
 
No, thats with the plugs in. I can cycle it with them out and I get spark. I did have to clean the plugs a bit, they were a bit black.
 
I can't give you actual numbers, I just held the two side by side and noticed the MK3 was slightly longer. But it makes a difference I can feel. Did this on two bikes.
 
I can't give you actual numbers, I just held the two side by side and noticed the MK3 was slightly longer. But it makes a difference I can feel. Did this on two bikes.

I appreciate it. Once I get it up and running I will decide if I want to go to the MKIII or if I will go to my local machine shop and make a custom one.

Would switching to a Mikuni dual carb set up help with starting, not just tuning?
 
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