50th Cafe Racer... things I’ve noticed so far

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Mar 25, 2019
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So... 50 miles on the clock so far. The first problem I had straight after delivery was the orange Engine Management Light illuminated. That was solved after a call to the dealer and charging the battery. However, after 10 miles today it’s come back on. I guess I’m going to have to get used to it. The other thing is the rear brake...it doesn’t appear to have one. I can push the brake pedal to its maximum position with very little if any retardation. Apparently this is typical of Euro 4 & ABS? I have to say I was a bit surprised. Does anyone else have a similar issue?
 
... I've had it after about a thousand miles on my Mk2 Euro4 ABS
.. a bleeding of the rear brake solved it...
 
I've had the lack of rear brakes twice now on my Sept 2017 bike - apparently Aprilias also suffer as they have upside down rear Brembo calipers like ours - my dealer has now put Motul Racing Brake Fluid 600 in, which is synthetic Dot 4 - the routing of the brake pipes near the exhaust may be to blame - have a word with Rob at the factory
 
I've had the lack of rear brakes twice now on my Sept 2017 bike - apparently Aprilias also suffer as they have upside down rear Brembo calipers like ours - my dealer has now put Motul Racing Brake Fluid 600 in, which is synthetic Dot 4 - the routing of the brake pipes near the exhaust may be to blame - have a word with Rob at the factory
Thanks
 
I've had the lack of rear brakes twice now on my Sept 2017 bike - apparently Aprilias also suffer as they have upside down rear Brembo calipers like ours - my dealer has now put Motul Racing Brake Fluid 600 in, which is synthetic Dot 4 - the routing of the brake pipes near the exhaust may be to blame - have a word with Rob at the factory
Are you meaning the bleeder is on the bottom of the rear caliper? If so, you’ll never get the air bled unless you remove the caliper with the hose still attached and bled it with the bleeder screw facing right side up, then remount it.
 
Are you meaning the bleeder is on the bottom of the rear caliper? If so, you’ll never get the air bled unless you remove the caliper with the hose still attached and bled it with the bleeder screw facing right side up, then remount it.
Spot on Scott. I put a longer brake line to my rear and bleeding it was a pain, caliper off and turn it about a bit to get the last tiny bubble out then the brake was as sharp as any modern rear that I've used.
 
I 'm waiting for a response from my dealer. Theres no way it should be like it is, I felt it was more than a tad dangerous and the bike was only PDI'd a few weeks ago.
 
No way should you "get used to" either. That's absurd. Sounds like a prep issue.
 
My dealer manages to bleed the back caliper without removing it - don't know what kit they use
 
They probably use an automotive type pump bleeder to push fluid into the system from the caliper end.
Pushes bubbles up toward the M/C end.
 
My dealer manages to bleed the back caliper without removing it - don't know what kit they use
It doesn’t matter how they did it. If the bleed screw is on the bottom it’ll never get the air out. Air rises.
It seems to me, Norton is using a right side caliper on the left. Makes no sense to me why they would fit a caliper with the bleeder on the bottom.
Now I need to look at mine when I get home.
 
I can’t say I’m impressed after just 50 miles. I will buy a vaccuum pump bleeder assuming I’m going to have to sort this myself.
 
I can’t say I’m impressed after just 50 miles. I will buy a vaccuum pump bleeder assuming I’m going to have to sort this myself.
You will likely find it is just one single, tiny, bubble that had clung on somewhere when it was first filled and now decided to dislodge itself. I put on a thumb operated rear brake and had to flush the rear but I could not get rid of the spongy operation. I tried gravity feed top down from reservoir, I tried pushing it in bottom up from the caliper. I even undid the ABS banjos and bled at that point.... nothing. In the end I removed the rear caliper (easy job) gave it a shake and tap with rubber mallet, pushed the pads as far home as I could, got the bleed nipple to the highest point (all lines still attached) and the tiniest air bubble came out, brake was rock solid after that.
 
I can’t say I’m impressed after just 50 miles. I will buy a vaccuum pump bleeder assuming I’m going to have to sort this myself.
Vacuum will not remove it unless you get the bleeder screw facing upward. Air rises.
I would unbolt the caliper and with the hose still attached, face the bleed screw upwards.
Once you have the screw facing up the air will burp out / or vacuum.
Why the bleeder is on the bottom is beyond me.
Someone ordered / installed right side calipers on the left.

Could you please post a picture of your rear caliper mounted to the bike.
 
Vacuum will not remove it unless you get the bleeder screw facing upward. Air rises.
I would unbolt the caliper and with the hose still attached, face the bleed screw upwards.
Once you have the screw facing up the air will burp out / or vacuum.
Why the bleeder is on the bottom is beyond me.
Someone ordered / installed right side calipers on the left.

Could you please post a picture of your rear caliper mounted to the bike.

Thanks yes, understood that the caliper needs to come off. I will take a pic at the weekend.
 
You will likely find it is just one single, tiny, bubble that had clung on somewhere when it was first filled and now decided to dislodge itself. I put on a thumb operated rear brake and had to flush the rear but I could not get rid of the spongy operation. I tried gravity feed top down from reservoir, I tried pushing it in bottom up from the caliper. I even undid the ABS banjos and bled at that point.... nothing. In the end I removed the rear caliper (easy job) gave it a shake and tap with rubber mallet, pushed the pads as far home as I could, got the bleed nipple to the highest point (all lines still attached) and the tiniest air bubble came out, brake was rock solid after that.

Thanks..
 
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