Chain Lube Comparison Tests

Tornado

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A reasonably well done set of tests of different chain lubes:



I now have a good use for the bottle of gear oil got sitting on the shelf!
 
I went the spray wax way several years ago now .... works fine .... less fling .... gold chain on Duc is visible .... haha!
 
I went the spray wax way several years ago now .... works fine .... less fling .... gold chain on Duc is visible .... haha!
Only downside is if you ride any unsealed sections of road, which i do from time to time, the wax seems to then pick up grit and turn to grinding paste.
 
Always leave over night after a chain clean & wax .... really don’t see any evidence of it picking up grit once it has been allowed to set up overnight ..
 
Most of our Nortons lack clearance for wider O ring or X ring chains that that video assumes.
Yes, he did point out this difference...but the tests can still apply to our naked chains in most aspects.
There are examples on these forums of folks making modern x-rings work on our bikes....some even without needing any modifications.
 
In absence of x or o rings we still have to get lube into the pin/roller area and that need outweighs the downside of the external grit that finds its way onto the exterior surfaces
 
I have been running a Tutoro auto chain oiler on my modern bonne with x-ring chain. Uses road vibes to open/close a valve in the reservoir so only oils while riding and does not need any electrics nor vacuum source. It seems to help keep grit flowing off the sprocket. Might get one or move it to the commando one day.

Chain Lube Comparison Tests


https://www.tutorochainoiler.com/co...automatic-motorcycle-chain-oiler-standard-kit
 
You can trim down to as much as you want using the valve control knob)....they recommend only 1-2 drops per minute of actual valve open time (using a supplied magnet to hold it full open while setting up)...so thats a fair bit more than you will actually have while moving (gravity valve isn't held open 100% of moving time). And you can use different viscosity oils...they sell their own but I didn't want to order small amounts from England whenever I needed...so just using Canadian Tire chainsaw lube oil at $5 a quart....tried both Winter & Summer types and find the thinner Winter tyoe seems to flow ok without much fling off.
 
Most of our Nortons lack clearance for wider O ring or X ring chains that that video assumes.

You're probably right about "most" but a DID 520 VX2 (x-ring) fits well on both my featherbeds (650ss and 500 single).
I find the wax is fine if, as has already been mentioned, you leave for at least a couple of hours to "dry".
Cheers
Rob
 
That hot wax looks like the real good stuff .... does it set up dry and none tacky given enough time ?
 
I used to have a tin pot filled with a homebrew of paraffin, grease, and moly; had an old chain I'd wind onto the bike before a dip in solvent to clean the chain, then it would go into the pot, already on a hot plate for a good hot soak. Hung it on a nail to drip/cool. Stuff seemed to work, didn't fling off much. When someone threw out my ugly pot of gunk, I quit with it and went to the spray on thick gluey stuff. Easier, seems to work too.
 
Whats the procedure with the tin o wax? Heat on a candle until liquid, then immerse chain in?
 
Not saying my method is better than any above, but it is cheap, convenient, and seems to give good results.

I put a good sized dollup of wheel bearing grease in a pump oil can, fill with gasoline (petrol), shake well and pump the mix on the pins and rollers. The gasoline carries the grease into the pins and rollers, evaporates leaving the grease where it is needed.

The excess slings off onto the rear wheel after the first ride, but cleans up easily.

I think chain life is as good, or at least nearly as good as any other lube method I know of, except for completely enclosed oil bath chain cases.

Slick
 
Regarding drip oilers:

Chain speed is much too fast on a motorcycle ..... The oil droplet, if it makes contact with the chain, is blasted to a mist, and carried away in the wind stream. At high chain speeds, the wind under the chain guard may be strong enough to carry a droplet forward, to be slung on the drive side crankcase, or the raised rib on the Commando inner primary cover, which I believe is for the purpose of catching stuff slung forward from the chain.

Slick
 
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