going to install blinkers

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after much thought and while tinware is at painters and it has rained every day here for a month or more I am going to take time in the shed to install turn signals (see photo) on 72/73 commando...I have this same type on 75 xs650 (see second pic) and like them very much they are brushed aluminum and nicely made and small enuff to be unobtrusive.. wish me luck...PS when the stuff gets here I might axt a question or two if that's OK
going to install blinkers
going to install blinkers
 
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I have the same on my Interstate.
 

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The only thing I would offer re blinkers is that "unobtrusive" and "easily seen" (by drivers) are conflicting requirements. ;)

FWIW, I've had the OEM Norton blinkers on and off my '73 Commando at least 5-6 times. I go back and forth between "blinkers are ugly on a Norton Commando, I don't want 'em on there," and "blinkers provide safety so they should be on there." As of two days ago I put them back on after over two years of NOT having them. I suspect I'll probably remove them again in a few months - over the 12 years I have owned the bike they have probably been off the bike more than on. ;)
 
given the driving habits of the "people" around here I figure every little bit helps.....as you see by my riding attire
 
I would only add that LEDs are brighter and take less power to run than conventional bulbs. Takes a certain type of flasher (which will work with incandescents if you change back), but since you're likely starting from nothing, you'll need a flasher anyway.
 
The only thing I would offer re blinkers is that "unobtrusive" and "easily seen" (by drivers) are conflicting requirements. ;)

That’s not necessarily the case any more Mike. The LED jobs I fitted to my 961 are almost invisible... until they’re switched on, then they are suddenly VERY visible, way more visible than standard.

If you pay for high quality items they can be very unobtrusive AND very visible...
 
I might as well start with the questions...so...the red wire on these I have chosen is 'hot' and the black/white 'ground' so the fact that my bike is positive ground means I can ground the black/white and run the red to flasher (or handlebar switch?) or bassackwards? I confess that wiring is not my strong point so any guidance great appreciated...happy new year
 
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I might as well start with the questions...so...the red wire on these I have chosen is 'hot' and the black/white 'ground' so the fact that my bike is positive ground means I can ground the black/white and run the red to flasher or bassackwards?

With positive ground, you would ground the red wire, and connect the black to flasher. This would keep you consistant with the remainder of your wiring.

If the lamps are incondescents, and the black wires are insulated from the metal mounts, it does not matter which wire you choose for "hot". You can earth, or ground either one. With LEDs, and positive ground, you must ground the red wires, unless the LEDs are not polarity sensitive. Confused yet?

Slick
 
You should really test to see if either wire is grounded to the body of the unit. If they are not, then wiring is pretty much impossible to screw up. If one of them is grounded, then it needs to be treated as the hot lead on a positive ground bike.

If you don't have a multimeter, get one. If you don't know how to use one, watch a video. Testing for continuity is one of the major uses of a multimeter.
 
I have similar directionals in matte black finish mounted on the rear tail light shroud of my commando. I never liked the stock "lollypop" looking directionals. The new directionals are 23 watt special gas filled bulbs which are quite bright when they flash. they look like this:
going to install blinkers




On the front I have low profile pyramid style directionals mounted on the fairing on either side of the headlight. They look like this and use the same bulbs. They are emgo brand lights.

going to install blinkers


I recommend not grounding them to your frame inside the fixture, like the stock norton directionals are grounded. Instead run a ground back out the stalks to somewhere much more accessable on your frame. Somewhere under the seat works good, then all you need to do to test continuity to the fixture should the light not work is remove the seat, rather than disassemble the fixture.
 
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0norton0.....yep I was going to ground the rear ones (black/white wire) to shock bolts and front to headlight inside shell (black/white) they are the emgo ones same as yours,,,on the rear I am going to secure the body to rear frame loop with "L" brackets off seat grab rail mounts.PS I made my own 'simplified' wiring harness and it works great it's just the positive ground part as it relates to the turn signals that throwing me...bulbs are incandescent....
 
Buy extra bulbs Now, because I couldn't find them locally when one failed on me last year, so I bought a dozen so I have extra

Also, I mounted my rear directionals on the curved tail light shroud by making a pair of delrin spacers that fit the curve of the shroud on one side and were flat on the stalk of the directional side. I bolted it up tight and it's solid. It wouldn't have been solid without the delrin spacer to fit the curve of the shroud. The naked fixture really needed a flat surface to mount against that my early model tail light shroud didn't have, unlike later models.
 
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