G15: set the ignition timing with magneto

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Nov 10, 2012
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Hi.
It is my first time with magneto.
Please, could you explain me (in easy way) how set the timing with magneto.
I usualy work with the points distributor on the back.
Thank you.
Piero
 
Hi.
It is my first time with magneto.
Please, could you explain me (in easy way) how set the timing with magneto.
I usualy work with the points distributor on the back.
Thank you.
Piero
Do you know how to use a timing disc and a mechanical stop to find top dead center (TDC)? I think Texas Slick has detailed timing instruction if you search this site.
 
Do you know how to use a timing disc and a mechanical stop to find top dead center (TDC)? I think Texas Slick has detailed timing instruction if you search this site.

Hi.
I have only said that is my first time with magneto.
Sorry but my twins and triples engines rebuilt by me run all great.
Repeat, i need to understand how set the magneto timing not how to serach the TDC and come back of 30/35 degree.
How to set the point at BTDC, this is what i need to understand.
If you dont know, dont answer.
Piero
 
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Hi Slick,
thank you so much for sending me your topic link.
Certainly is clear but sorry i am not a mother language so that was easy lost me in translation.
If i can summarize what i have understood, considering that my magneto is in place:
- starting from TDC i rotate back the engine of 35 (or 30) degree.
Then i am not sure what i have understood, not usually with magneto and translation.
Thank you.
Piero
 
Hi Slick,
thank you so much for sending me your topic link.
Certainly is clear but sorry i am not a mother language so that was easy lost me in translation.
If i can summarize what i have understood, considering that my magneto is in place:
- starting from TDC i rotate back the engine of 35 (or 30) degree.
Then i am not sure what i have understood, not usually with magneto and translation.
Thank you.
Piero

Piero:

1) Check point gap is equal on both ramps .... this is very important! If not equal, do Steps #2 to #6

2) Find TDC (Step # 7 and #8) Step #9 does not apply to you.

3) Do Step #10 and Step #11. There is nothing special about 35 degrees .... rotate backwards past your target timing set point.

4) Do Step #12 to #17.

Se c'è qualche passo che non capisci
, PM me.

Slick
 
Piero:

1) Check point gap is equal on both ramps .... this is very important! If not equal, do Steps #2 to #6

2) Find TDC (Step # 7 and #8) Step #9 does not apply to you.

3) Do Step #10 and Step #11. There is nothing special about 35 degrees .... rotate backwards past your target timing set point.

4) Do Step #12 to #17.

Se c'è qualche passo che non capisci
, PM me.

Slick

Hi Slick,
Thank you again.
Sorry, but step 13 is not clear for my capacity.
Could you kindly explain in easy way?.
Thanks for helping me.
Piero
 
Piero:

In Step #13, VOM is Volt - Ohm - Meter. If you do not have one, I suggest you buy. They are not very expensive, and you will find helpful for electrical testing. If you have one, good.

Set the VOM function to "Ohms" and select maximum sensitivity .... this is the setting that usually makes "beep" sound when lead (probe) wires are touched together. Then connect probes using "alligator" clips to the places A1 (or A2), and B in the Figure under Step #6.

If you have done all the steps before Step #13, the VOM should "beep". The beep indicates the points are closed. Points should be closed if engine is backwards 35 or more degrees from TDC, and the long screw that secures the contact block is not installed.

Now slowly rotate the engine forward until the beep stops. This is the place where the points open, and the magneto fires. Make a note of this place on the degree wheel.

Next, Step #13 says repeat several times to check your work.

PM me if you need more help.

Slick
 
Piero:
L
In Step #13, VOM is Volt - Ohm - Meter. If you do not have one, I suggest you buy. They are not very expensive, and you will find helpful for electrical testing. If you have one, good.

Set the VOM function to "Ohms" and select maximum sensitivity .... this is the setting that usually makes "beep" sound when lead (probe) wires are touched together. Then connect probes using "alligator" clips to the places A1 (or A2), and B in the Figure under Step #6.

If you have done all the steps before Step #13, the VOM should "beep". The beep indicates the points are closed. Points should be closed if engine is backwards 35 or more degrees from TDC, and the long screw that secures the contact block is not installed.

Now slowly rotate the engine forward until the beep stops. This is the place where the points open, and the magneto fires. Make a note of this place on the degree wheel.

Next, Step #13 says repeat several times to check your work.

PM me if you need more help.

Slick

Hi Slick,
I will try.
Sorry, but can i use a light to check that the point open?.
But may be not because there is not power from battery?
Thank you.
Piero
 
Last edited:
You can use a test light with a battery, if the centre screw is loosened or removed.

Or you can use a cigarette paper or similar thin piece of material, held between the points. Feel for when the points lose their grip on the paper: that is the points opening.
 
You can use a test light with a battery, if the centre screw is loosened or removed.

Or you can use a cigarette paper or similar thin piece of material, held between the points. Feel for when the points lose their grip on the paper: that is the points opening.

Be advised that using paper changes the timing set point by 2 degrees for each 0.001 inch thickness of the paper. I have measured this effect. Ciggie paper is about 0.005" and results in a 1 degree change (toward more advance). This is insignificant, but some "thin" paper can be nearly 0.002 " resulting in a 4 degree change.

Slick
 
Yep definitely, but it’s a way to set your timing.

Whichever way it’s initially set, checking with a strobe is a good idea, if you’re interested in how the timing really behaves when the engine is running.
 
Yep definitely, but it’s a way to set your timing.

Whichever way it’s initially set, checking with a strobe is a good idea, if you’re interested in how the timing really behaves when the engine is running.

Strobe?
The only way i know and i use is with a degree wheel on the cam timing side rev count.
Piero
 
You can put a timing mark on the alternator rotor and attach a wire pointer to the engine, or mark the stator as well.
 
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