Ignition switch

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tyborg15

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Dec 24, 2012
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I’m about to make a wiring loom for my 72 which will run trispark and a negative earth. On inspecting the old loom, I’ve found the starter motor wires and Interpol gear but I’m trying to understand why there is a 4 position master switch and a two position lighting switch. Surely if you turn the master switch to night use you wouldn’t be expected to also flick another switch so the headlight works. Am I missing something?
 
Hi tyborg15, The four positions of the ignition switch are off, parking lights, ignition on, and ignition on with lights. That position goes to the switch on the headlight where you can choose side or main headlight. Then of course you can choose dipped / high beam on the handlebar switch.

Cheers,

cliffa.
 
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The next question is whether or not you want or need this set up. The low wattage parking light will keep you legal when it is required to have a head light on during daylight hours but whether or not it is bright enough to make you safe is your decision. It does help if your charging system is barely able to keep up with the needed wattage to run lights and ignition!
 
I don’t think I’ll use it. Laws don’t require a daytime light. I can therefore get by with a two position switch and use the light switch as a straight out on/off switch. Thanks for the help.
 
the wiring was designed to meet the regulation of the day in the UK. so the park light was a circuit on its own, you could pull the key and leave the bike with the park light while in the bar for a beer or two or more, and the silly little blue capacitor would still hold the juice to get it started on points.

the biggest battery drain is the tail light on all the time and the need for a front light (as of 1974) which pushed the alternator to its limit at lower rpm.

I have planned a second wiring harness from scratch. the first turned out OK, it was based on using the original ignition switch but i added a 4 fuse panel . if you go to a simply of/on ignition switch you may want to think about a fuse panel with dedicated circuits for lights, signal lights, brakes lights, ignition etc and a few relays too. at which point i'd want about eight fuse slots

also i tried to eliminate all the electrical joints possible, and ran from point to point . I used TXL wire which is very common now in american auto under the hood wiring,

contemplate LED's for tail light and every other light which is on steady.
 
tyborg15 said:
I don’t think I’ll use it. Laws don’t require a daytime light. I can therefore get by with a two position switch and use the light switch as a straight out on/off switch. Thanks for the help.
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This is whst I just did. Got tired of replacing the crappy 4-position switch. $30 Chinese or $80 Genuwine Lucas, nothing but junk. I doubled the connections on the cold side and hooked up gauge lights, tail/brake lights, pilot light and ignition and ran the headlight lead to the hot side with a switch. All LEDs so no charging issues.
 
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