snipped so only oil there would come from fork seals or brake fluid or chain case itself.snipped
I have the same. Check the intake rocker cover for a leak from the center stud. Mine drips down gets sucked forward and blows onto the primary case.
The leak above is easy to fix. Replace the steel flat washer under the nut, with a copper washer. The copper washer will act as a gasket and stop any leak at that point.
Fluorescent leak detection dye is great stuff. You can usually buy it at your local auto parts store. Wear amber sun glasses to aid in seeing very small traces of dye. See
http://spectroline.com/how-fluorescent-leak-detection-works/
Gravity works! Leaks start at the top and/or front and drop down or get blown back by the wind.
Charlie
PS One repeatable test is worth a thousand expert opinions.
BTW. tale NOTE: soft Alu washers seal rather easier better w less torque than well annealed copper, DAMHIK. Big famous Vendors know and supply this but don't want to offend experts ordering commonly recommended and factory copper washers. Keep in mind if repeating leaks form banjo joints. Banjo bolts are so hollow they are fairly weak / fracture to take the torque required to seat copper washers in some cases like my 2 Combats.
snipped It built right to the point that the crank acted as a pressure relief valve by exiting out the bottom of the cases. Hey, I was 20 years old and just couldn't let that Japanese 4cyl beat me.