Why we call it "inspection"...(2018)

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That is the only reason I do not like the old analogue Boyer.
With the lazy advance curve it has you have to advance the timing quite a bit over the recommendation to get it to pull strong through the midrange.
Then you end up with 36 degrees at 5000 rpm and that is too much. Even without audible pinging the bearing load would have a spike that probably shortened it's life. Jim

Good reason enough to toss the old Boyah. The Pazon Altair curve shows full advance by 3,000, that sounds better, yes?
 
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That is the only reason I do not like the old analogue Boyer.
With the lazy advance curve it has you have to advance the timing quite a bit over the recommendation to get it to pull strong through the midrange.
Then you end up with 36 degrees at 5000 rpm and that is too much. Even without audible pinging the bearing load would have a spike that probably shortened it's life. Jim

I fitted one of the very first Boyer ign systems .. it had a brown not black box..and yes analogue and yes it just kept on advancing in a lazy way.. so you never really knew what the timing was unless you had one of those super duper strobes that would give a stable image at say 6000 rpm and a willing helper anxious to damage his or her ears.. Mine suddenly and inexplicably kicked back on ks. very other kick so to speak.. found that ign was indeed 36degrees at around 5000 rpm. As you say way too much
 
Good reason enough to toss the old Boyah. The Pazon Altair curve shows full advance by 3,000, that sounds better, yes?
Not necessarily, I used to set mine up by advancing the stator plate until it occaisonally kicked back and then marked the plate and the case with a pencil line and pulled it back until the twommarks were out of alignment -figure that to be about half a degree.
 
Not necessarily, I used to set mine up by advancing the stator plate until it occaisonally kicked back and then marked the plate and the case with a pencil line and pulled it back until the twommarks were out of alignment -figure that to be about half a degree.

You mean Boyer? Pazon? I use sharpie witness marks too.
 
Boyer ... purchased in 72. Just a thought but wonder if your carb settings are a tad on the weakside ? would require more advance so one fault conceals another. Oddly mine worked the opposite direction , ie if pulled back a couple of degree then it runs really smoothly and easily midrange.. Nor does it sound retarded.. Boyers do require think its 3 or more ohms resistance in the primary windings .
I say worked because the original kit which performed very well for over 20 years was replaced by a Boyer digital mk 3 or 4. Nightmare. Went over to Pazon smartfire -overkill for road use but very good.. The quality of connectors etc is superb.
 
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Damage looks consistent with not being used and condensation formed on the bearing, but I would expect it to occur on the bottom.
 
Why we call it "inspection"...(2018)
Why we call it "inspection"...(2018)
Why we call it "inspection"...(2018)
Why we call it "inspection"...(2018)


Let's talk about pistons....
 

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So. I measured things up, firstly, the rings (end gap) were at .012 to .013", right where they began life 31,000 miles ago. Pretty much says there is no excessive ring or bore wear.
 
only .0002" difference, throughout the bore.
That's about where mine was after 20,000 miles. I cleaned up the pistons, touched the bores with a spring hone to break the glaze, popped in some new rings, and put another 5,000 miles on with nary a puff or oil loss.

Nathan
 
Doubt it is oil contaminant related as spalling/fretting seems to be limited to one bearing and in one area. Unless you wet sump heavy and wet sump often, it is really difficult for any significant large contaminants to get back there as these bearings remain happy with only a misting of oil. Furthermore, roller element bearings are tolerant of contamination. Just consider that this spalling managed to pass from within the bearing without doing more damage.

I doubt it is brinelling (maybe false brinelling). It looks like the damage is localized to maybe 10 degrees BTDC.

I had experienced a similar failure (though on the drive side and I do not recall the orientation) back in the day (1970s) while running a Drouin with 10 psi boost. I attributed the failure to my carelessness in overheating the inner race of the new roller mains or something along those lines when rebuilding the motor for the blower.

Upon your dismantle I would take note of the class of fit of the bearing as well as how tight it was on the main shaft as well as the outer fit in the cases - maybe too tight. Also take a look at the main shaft and inside of the race to see if there were any upsets of metal causing a tight spot.

You may never be able to determine exactly why it failed but most importantly, whatever you do, don't do it again!:)

As to the fit on the crank journal, the damaged (timing) side pulled off rather nicely. The undamaged (PTO) side, was really tight on the journal. Go figure...
Why we call it "inspection"...(2018)
 
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As to the fit on the crank journal, the damaged (timing) side pulled off rather nicely. The undamaged (PTO) side, was really tight on the journal. Go figure...

That would be normal. The timing side bearing does not need to be as tight since it is retained by the oil pump drive gear. Jim
 
They have all the indications of a Glacier bearing but with one caveat.

They are missing the G inside a square stamp, this was put on all Glacier shells even if the OEM has their logo added, the 2416LC is an old AE catalogue ref which would have been made by Glacier and made from steel with a sintered copper/lead with a lead/tin overlay plating is a trimetal bearing. As the AE bearing numbers were used by lots of other bearing makers however it does not tell you much.

So these are either fake as Glacier are the sole bearing maker left in the UK, or if genuine they have changed policy and have dropped the G in a square. As the parent company is now German and seems determined to destroy the Glacier name it's likely the G in a square has been dropped and these are genuine Glacier.
 
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