Yet another stator clearance question

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May 11, 2007
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I may be splitting hairs at this point, but after hearing the horror stories of rotors welding themselves to stators i figure it's better to ask what may be a stupid question instead of making what may be a very stupid mistake...
Anyway, when you're checking stator clearance, is it acceptable to have to wiggle the feeler gauge a bit to get it all the way through? Mind you, it doesn't take any excessive amount of force to push though, just a push and some movement so it doesn't hang up on the little irregularities on the inside of the stator. I'm thinking that a little maneuvering is ok, what with trying to wedge a flat piece of metal through a curved opening, but i'd prefer to be told i'm wrong now rather than later via a blown primary...
 
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May 7, 2005
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Sounds ok to me, whats more important is to turn the crank 30/40 degrees and test again and repeat until a full 360 is done. Each test must give a postitive, if some give a negative a main bearing is on its way out or the crank is bent.
 
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Aug 21, 2006
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I have heard that you need at least 0.008 clearance but 0.0010 is better. Check it all the way around the stator. When you say there are a few places where it is a tight squeeze, is that at 0.008 or 0.0010? If the gap is not even all the way round, you may have something out of line as another member has mentioned. Could be just the stator studs or could be something more serious. If in doubt, drive the bike 10-20 miles around town and pay attention to the primary. If the primary hasn't heated up, assimilator light hasn't come on and no strange burning plastic smells, you are probably OK!!

Scheffy.G said:
I may be splitting hairs at this point, but after hearing the horror stories of rotors welding themselves to stators i figure it's better to ask what may be a stupid question instead of making what may be a very stupid mistake...
Anyway, when you're checking stator clearance, is it acceptable to have to wiggle the feeler gauge a bit to get it all the way through? Mind you, it doesn't take any excessive amount of force to push though, just a push and some movement so it doesn't hang up on the little irregularities on the inside of the stator. I'm thinking that a little maneuvering is ok, what with trying to wedge a flat piece of metal through a curved opening, but i'd prefer to be told i'm wrong now rather than later via a blown primary...
 
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Apr 15, 2004
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I like to use a business card to check the gap. Non-magnetic, so it doesn't get stuck on the rotor magnets! I don't get out much, so it's about the only use I have for my cards :lol:

As the guys said, it's important to check all around.

Debby
 
Joined
May 11, 2007
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97
I'm using the .008 gauge and it's only tight in one area, regardless of crank position. At least the crank isn't bent, thank gawd. I suppose it's time to read up on the proper way to bend the studs without screwing up the inner primary...
 
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Jul 18, 2005
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What i find the easiest is to get a piece of bronze shim stock about 4 " wide and long enough to almost cover the diameter of the rotor. With the stator loose on the studs you slide the shim stock in around the rotor and retighten the nuts on the stator studs.For me it works every time and takes about one minute to do the job..
 
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Mar 6, 2007
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Ron Hulton said:
What i find the easiest is to get a piece of bronze shim stock about 4 " wide and long enough to almost cover the diameter of the rotor. With the stator loose on the studs you slide the shim stock in around the rotor and retighten the nuts on the stator studs.For me it works every time and takes about one minute to do the job..

good idea Ron
 
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