Wiring Problems

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jsouthard said:
At this point i will try anything.
Click to expand...

You could try connecting the Sparx regulator unit directly to the battery?
 
I'm taking a break for the day. Time for a beer or 12.

As it sits i have no power at all. when the key is turned on it's not giving any juice. try, try again!
 
Back at it.

I did find that one of the grounds was frayed and not actually grounding. However i still currently have no power.

Battery Charged.

New fuse.

All grounds snug and reading 13v.

Zener Diode disconnected.

Nothing changes regardless of which position i turn the key.?. Any suggestions guys?
 
Hi there

Check the fuse holder to make sure that fuse contacting may have melted/distorted. then check back of ignition switch for power .
 
You need to physically track your wiring. You can do this 2 ways. 1. track the turn signals (all 4) back to the flasher, flasher to switch, switch to power. The other, of course. would be to go the other way. Do the same with the brake light switches, both of them. Pull the bulbs, one at a time to see if you can isolate an offender. Confirm the wiring to the switch. You gotta do the leg work. We cannot do that for you. We can tell you what to do but you must do it. Get rid of the flasher and check them directly. There are many differant flasher.
Double check yours.
 
OK...

As of today i have wired in a new fuse holder, checked the grounds again and bought a test light to try and figure this out. Obviously the wiring harness and electric maintenance is foreign to me. all of your help is appreciated.

I have taken a test light through every wire on the bike. With the clamp on the negative of the battery the test light, lights up on every single wire with these exception...

1 - The yellow/black and yellow/white wires from the Boyer - No electricity getting to these. have tried the ignition switch in all positions.

2 - The the yellow wires from the Sparx only light up with the ignition on. but they do very in brightness from the 2nd to 3rd position. I would assume this is normal.

3 - The red/blue in the headlight (this is also true with the white lead that connects to the red/blue.
 
jsouthard said:
1 - The yellow/black and yellow/white wires from the Boyer - No electricity getting to these. have tried the ignition switch in all positions.
Click to expand...

Normal.

jsouthard said:
2 - The the yellow wires from the Sparx only light up with the ignition on. but they do very in brightness from the 2nd to 3rd position. I would assume this is normal.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't expect to find any voltage or current in the yellow wires (between the stator and the Sparx regulator) unless the engine was running? Any current in those wires should be AC ?

jsouthard said:
3 - The red/blue in the headlight (this is also true with the white lead that connects to the red/blue.
Click to expand...


Blue/red? (UR - wiring diag.) Is the dip (low) beam wire. So there should be voltage but only when the handlebar switch is set to the low beam position (blue U - power in, UR - out to H/L bulb).

White shouldn't connect to blue/red? The white wire feed to the handlebar switch should connect to blue/white (UW) but only when the headlamp flasher button is pressed but there would normally be volts in the white wire to the handlebar switch with the ignition on.
 
Is it strange that with the ignition off i am getting a read on all these wires?

I would have assumed it would only flow current when on.

Also, any other suggestions to why although current is flowing the head light doesn't turn on and i'm not getting a spark. At this point not a single electric feature on the bike is working. No turn signals, horn, lights, etc.
 
Could you give use some information about your test light?

Testing for volts is usually done between the wire and ground, or the positive battery terminal in a positive earth/ground electrical system.

Assuming it's standard positive ground polarity, are you certain the battery is connected correctly = positive to ground?
 
This is obviously a problem then. I have been testing from the negative terminal. I will check and see if that makes anything apparent.

I do have it wired positive (+) red. Negative (-) Blue/Brown.

Checking again i found that i am getting nothing from the blue/brown wires. I will try using the test light properly.
 
jsouthard said:
I will try using the test light properly.
Click to expand...

If it is some kind of continuity tester, it may be possible to use it to test from the negative battery wire terminal? If the tester has its own power source (internal battery?) then the bike's battery may need to be disconnected first?
 
It's the "screwdriver" with the lightbulb inside and a clip type tester. After reading your previous posts i think i at least have the understanding that everything is ground properly.
 
Thanks for Kev-c and LAB's help i was able to restore power!

As i have said before, electrical is way outside my comfort zone and i have never done it before (except maybe changing light fixtures in my house, which i blew out the ground).

My current issues remains the turn signal / brake confusion. right now, with the turn signals on the brake light flashes. When the brake is engaged (either) the turn signals stop and the brake light turns off. The turn signals come on (both) when the brake is engaged. I have tested and have gone through every wire.

The brake wires (brown and white) have continual power regardless of being engaged or disengaged. The turn signals only have power when the signal is turned on and or the brake is engaged.

Is this possibly a ground issue? and Is there a specific ground wire for the turn signals and or brake. Where would it be located.
 
jsouthard said:
Is this possibly a ground issue? and Is there a specific ground wire for the turn signals and or brake. Where would it be located.
Click to expand...

The turn signals, brake light and tail light all connect to the same (red) ground wire that should run forward from the tail lamp assembly? The fact that they all share the same ground return wire does suggest a possible ground fault or perhaps a wrong tail/brake bulb wire connection?
 
Hi again
Have you taken out the stop/tail lamp bulb to make sure it is the proper two filament/two contact type and that it is not damaged in some way?

Kev
 
Found the problem!!

The ground in the tail light section had stop sending current. I rewired the ground for both rear turn signals and the ground for the tail light and she's working 100%! Sealed her all up, started 1st kick, sending 14.9 for the battery at 3,000 RPM and all turn signals and brakes work properly.

I learned the wiring color codes, signal flow for the bike, how to use a light tester, how to install a Sparx 3 and how not to make assumption and start rewiring.

Thank you for all your help. Accessnorton help again! Another Norton back on the road!
 
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