wiring harness for handlebar controls

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Nothing in the OIF switch clusters requires a 'ground' to the handlebars and none have a 'ground' wire.

The P-clamps of the '72 T120 (OIF) are completely disconnected from 'ground', but I came to think of the bowden cables which still ensures earthing. Oh yes, the horn push of the '72 requires an earthing connection.

-Knut
 
Please say where PVC sleeving somewhat close to correct is available - I haven't found it.

Probably not absolutely identical but close enough?:

https://www.hilltop-products.co.uk/...vespa-scooter-motorcycle-period-lighting.html


Oh yes, the horn push of the '72 requires an earthing connection.

No, it doesn't. The circuit is switch-horn-earth/ground (W-PB-Horn-R):
1972 Triumph manual
wiring harness for handlebar controls
 
I bow to that. The diagram I looked at said "1972" but was probably for 1970-71.
 
Probably not absolutely identical but close enough?:

https://www.hilltop-products.co.uk/...vespa-scooter-motorcycle-period-lighting.html




No, it doesn't. The circuit is switch-horn-earth/ground (W-PB-Horn-R):
1972 Triumph manual
wiring harness for handlebar controls


Thanks L.A.B, and Happy New Year !!

The same vendor also sells via Ebay..

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10mm-Fle...lation-Coloured/250833434595?var=553264913491

I'm hoping to completely re-jig my switches. I'll start a new post when I do it.

Cheers,

cliffa.
 
I bow to that. The diagram I looked at said "1972" but was probably for 1970-71.

The 1971 diagram is also in the manual and is the same (as '71 was OIF) except for the switch clusters being swapped over.

I believe the switch clusters of that time were the same Lucas parts (54033666 & 54033667) for both Triumph and Norton (and BSA).
 
Thanks, I've written them - we'll see. Obviously not like the originals since they were molded and not PVC but if it looks good will save me a lot of trouble.
They do stock different inner diameters, so it if it wasn't too loose I think it would look acceptable.
 
They do stock different inner diameters, so it if it wasn't too loose I think it would look acceptable.
Yes, but their interesting increments are 6mm, 8mm, and 12mm. The wires need to be snug to make PVC fill out. Getting snug wires through PVC is challenging - been there, done that! 6mm is surely too small, 8mm may be right for modern wire, and 12mm is probably too large. It makes a major difference whether using original wire or modern PVC wire as the thickness of the wire is quite different.

If the shipping is not astronomical to the US, I'll get multiple sizes and report back.
 
Greg, interestingly on Ebay the same seller also has 10mm. However, I just noticed the price difference. On eBay they charge £7.05 for 5 metres of 8mm, but on their homepage they charge £8.50 for 25 metres !!

Big dIfference!
 
The Lucas cable as on the assembly is 8.5mm diameter, I plan on buying the 12mm grey heat shrink tube and shrinking it onto the 8.5mm and hoping it does not take it too large. I doubt one layer into 6 cable's as the one and only cover will get to 8.5mms unless multiple layers are used. Have to try first, just guessing based on previous experience with shrink sleeves.
 
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Kommando, my only concern with heat shrink is that it doesn't seem very flexible. Personally I reckon (long term) P.V.C. will be better. I have some short lengths of shrink sleeve I can test if you like.
 
The 1971 diagram is also in the manual and is the same (as '71 was OIF) except for the switch clusters being swapped over.

I believe the switch clusters of that time were the same Lucas parts (54033666 & 54033667) for both Triumph and Norton (and BSA).
I agree. The only differences I've seen were:
  1. Norton switched the direction indicators to the right side via service bulleting N3/3. Lucas/Triumph/BSA had the turn signal on the left side. I can't imagine that US riders took that well so US dealers probably switched them back (guessing). At any rate this causes confusion on some wiring diagrams.
  2. The Triumph Twins kill switch wire was always (I think) White/Yellow and the Norton/Triumph Triples (maybe NVT) was White/Blue. I'm not sure when that changed.

I've tried to document the colors here: http://www.gregmarsh.com/MC/Wiring.aspx
 
Cliff that would be helpful, wonder if there is a resin that could be painted on, the grey gets the worse staining, the inner cables clean up a lot better.
 
The Triumph Twins kill switch wire was always (I think) White/Yellow and the Norton/Triumph Triples (maybe NVT) was White/Blue. I'm not sure when that changed.

The Norton kill switch wire was white/yellow 'WY' (WY '71- 850 Mk3) also Triumph triples.
'71 - '74, Commando is white/blue 'WU' from the under-tank junction to the ballast resistor, then white/purple (not marked on the wiring diagram) between ballast resistor and coils. Mk3 is WY from the kill switch to the ballast resistor.

The only triple to have a white/blue WU (not to be confused with blue/white UW) as far as I remember was the T160 where WU was ballast to coils and ballast bypass from relay C4. The T160 kill switch wire was still WY.

http://www.triplesonline.com/techtips/



I've tried to document the colors here: http://www.gregmarsh.com/MC/Wiring.aspx

Some errors and omissions there.
 
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The Norton kill switch wire was white/yellow 'WY' (WY '71- 850 Mk3) also Triumph triples.
'71 - '74, Commando is white/blue 'WU' from the under-tank junction to the ballast resistor, then white/purple (not marked on the wiring diagram) between ballast resistor and coils. Mk3 is WY from the kill switch to the ballast resistor.

The only triple to have a white/blue WU (not to be confused with blue/white UW) as far as I remember was the T160 where WU was ballast to coils and ballast bypass from relay C4. The T160 kill switch wire was still WY.

http://www.triplesonline.com/techtips/


Some errors and omissions there.

Hopefully, fixed.
 
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