Winter Project Updates - I've been busy!

RoadScholar said:

I suggest those who deal with sealed chains consider a kit like this:

View attachment 78748

I have one of these as well as an EK version.

I did the 520 X-ring chain conversion from parts I found available. I have a 20T counter and the usual 42T rear. I purchased a 100 link DID chain which I shortened to 99 links and would come into proper tension when the adjusters where out as far as I dared; threads inside the lugs. I then moved the axle as far forward as I could by hand; I think there may be a smidge more forward movement available, but figured a 1/2 link was the better solution. I went looking using a bunch of search strings, but no luck. I finally called DID, got a tech rep on the phone and was told that inquiry was one of many, that they were considering making one...

If you do find one of these (DID, anyway) please let us know. If you, or any others, have a X-ring chain that the manufacturer offers 1/2 links, please let me know; I'd rather that the adjusters be somewhere just short of mid and would be happy to buy another chain so that all parts were made to work together.

Click to expand...

Well, that's not reassuring. Sounds like I need to go to 98 and force the axle forward until it fits. With the belt drive there's not much room to move the gearbox back before getting the belt too tight. That might buy me a 1/16in.

This is going to be interesting. Worse case is I buy yet another sprocket and drop to 19T.

Did you ask Jayson (new chainman) if he has a line on appropriate half links?

gortnipper said:

Did you ask Jayson (new chainman) if he has a line on appropriate half links?

Click to expand...

Sent an email. No response yet.

So I went back out and took another crack at it. I left the chain the same length (to tell the truth I haven’t counted the links, I just assumed with a 22T it had to be 100) and it seems to fit. I had to move the rear wheel but there acceptable play in the chain. I do have on the centerstand so I know it will change but I should have enough to adjust it.

I’ll get it off the centerstand and recheck. It doesn’t make sense to me. I guess I’ll find out soon enough.

When you assume...

swooshdave said:

20T sprocket?

Click to expand...

Yes, 20.

Jason said no half links for o-ring chains and that I should be using a 530 non-o-ring chain as they have less drag and they are lighter.

So although the manual calls for a 99 link chain for the 20-21T sprockets apparently there is sufficient adjustments available to make it work.

In theory the x-ring chain in the bike may wear less and require less adjustment so any potential loss in adjustment range may be offset.

We’ll now need to validate that assumption.

Looks great!

swooshdave said:

Jason said no half links for o-ring chains and that I should be using a 530 non-o-ring chain as they have less drag and they are lighter.

So although the manual calls for a 99 link chain for the 20-21T sprockets apparently there is sufficient adjustments available to make it work.

In theory the x-ring chain in the bike may wear less and require less adjustment so any potential loss in adjustment range may be offset.

We’ll now need to validate that assumption.

Click to expand...

I think you’re right. It will hardly wear or stretch at all.

Latest update. I adjusted the gearbox to 3/4" free play. Then I adjusted the drive chain to 1 1/2" free play. This is with the 20T sprocket. So there you go. I will start it up again and check the belt. Then seal it up and go ride!

So despite the comment about the manual recommending a 99 link chain with the 20T sprocket I ending up using the same length chain I used with the 22T. As you can see it's further out in the adjustment but I have some more to go if I end up needing it. The X-ring chain, in theory, should wear less and need less adjustment. Also interesting is that the axle slot is quite large and the limitation is actually in the brake lug (you can just see it behind the end of the adjuster).

Anyways, I set the chain range at 1 1/2" (unladed) and called it good for now. I know it's surprising but I didn't take a picture of the ride today. @Mike T just took a spin down the usual country roads, the same ones I went on with the 22T sprocket. The difference was immediately apparent. With the 22T it struggled up small hills in 3rd, but now it did much better. At 60mph I was at 3100 rpm instead of 2700-2800. While not a lot it was enough. If I just rode in the hills I'd even consider dropping down to 19T or maybe even 18T. But I'm willing to compromise for freeway travel (which isn't a lot of the time but it's nice to get up to 70mph+ and not have it spin to death).

I aslo pulled the primary cover to check the belt. It's always amazing how hot it gets. I had set the cold tension free play at around 3/4in (.75in) and hot it was about .65in.

I think I'm done for projects for this season, at least major ones. Now it's just maintenance and riding.

Next year I'm going to rebuild the forks, not sure if I will go with the Landsdowns (my brother just got some installed) but at the very least some new tubes, and bushings (probably the Cosentino Fork Bushing kit from NYCNorton).

swooshdave said:

So despite the comment about the manual recommending a 99 link chain with the 20T sprocket I ending up using the same length chain I used with the 22T. As you can see it's further out in the adjustment but I have some more to go if I end up needing it. The X-ring chain, in theory, should wear less and need less adjustment. Also interesting is that the axle slot is quite large and the limitation is actually in the brake lug (you can just see it behind the end of the adjuster).

Anyways, I set the chain range at 1 1/2" (unladed) and called it good for now. I know it's surprising but I didn't take a picture of the ride today. @Mike T just took a spin down the usual country roads, the same ones I went on with the 22T sprocket. The difference was immediately apparent. With the 22T it struggled up small hills in 3rd, but now it did much better. At 60mph I was at 3100 rpm instead of 2700-2800. While not a lot it was enough. If I just rode in the hills I'd even consider dropping down to 19T or maybe even 18T. But I'm willing to compromise for freeway travel (which isn't a lot of the time but it's nice to get up to 70mph+ and not have it spin to death).

I aslo pulled the primary cover to check the belt. It's always amazing how hot it gets. I had set the cold tension free play at around 3/4in (.75in) and hot it was about .65in.

I think I'm done for projects for this season, at least major ones. Now it's just maintenance and riding.

Next year I'm going to rebuild the forks, not sure if I will go with the Landsdowns (my brother just got some installed) but at the very least some new tubes, and bushings (probably the Cosentino Fork Bushing kit from NYCNorton).

Click to expand...

I'm glad you were able to resolve the chain length without running an offset link. I do like the looks of the Interstate with a more sporty look. Maybe I'm just prejudiced...

Nater_Potater said:

I'm glad you were able to resolve the chain length without running an offset link. I do like the looks of the Interstate with a more sporty look. Maybe I'm just prejudiced...

Click to expand...

When I first got my Interstate many moons ago it was sporting Dunstalls. They sounded hella good. Rust won that battle.

Looks good swoosh. Honestly, that chain ain‘t gonna stretch. It’ll probably outlast your engine internals !

David
I used R90S bars on my Interstate in the early 80s. What are you using?

illf8ed said:

David
I used R90S bars on my Interstate in the early 80s. What are you using?
View attachment 78840

Click to expand...

We’re t those really narrow? I suppose if you weren’t turning it’d be ok.

I’ve used a ton of different bars over the years. I did like the SS Euro bars a lot.

I could never get comfortable on the bike until I put rear sets on.

Now it has something like Bikemaster Superbike bars which are similar to the Euro bars.

I assumed that was directed at me?

illf8ed said:

David
I used R90S bars on my Interstate in the early 80s. What are you using?
View attachment 78840

Click to expand...

That's a really nice colour scheme.

Funny you should mention R90S bars. Unknowingly I bought some second hand bars for my Interstate but found they were too low and narrow, so I got some semi-western bars from Andover. I decided to put the narrow bars on Ebay, and while cleaning them for photos I noticed a stamped part number. After checking the Internet I discovered they were genuine R90S bars. I advertised them and got enquires from all over the world. A bidding frenzy started and they eventually went to Austria. Seems they are quite rare.

swooshdave said:

Jason said no half links for o-ring chains and that I should be using a 530 non-o-ring chain as they have less drag and they are lighter.

So although the manual calls for a 99 link chain for the 20-21T sprockets apparently there is sufficient adjustments available to make it work.

In theory the x-ring chain in the bike may wear less and require less adjustment so any potential loss in adjustment range may be offset.

We’ll now need to validate that assumption.

Click to expand...

The x ring drag story is myth.
Comnoz proved it on the dyno and I proved it again with a coasting race, xring against unsealed 530. It was a dead heat.
My experience with x and O ring is that once adjusted when new, there is no need for readjustment for many thousands of miles. When you finally do see some extra slack in the chain, it's worn out, seals gone.
But that should be about 20,000-25,000 miles down the road.
Sprocket wear is reduced as well because the chain is at a constant pitch with sealed chain.
With unsealed the pitch keeps growing and the sprockets naturally must wear to match.

Glen