Which head steady is your favourite?

Which head steady have you found to be the best?

  • Total voters
    46
acotrel said:
If you fitted an hydraulic steering damper in place of the head steady on a Commando, the bike might handle better.
Click to expand...
How does a hydraulic steering damper prevent the lateral deflection of the top of the engine and its attendant twisting of the gearbox cradle to which the swing (ing) arm is attached ?
I would be very interested to hear an explanation.
 
Richard Tool said:
How does a hydraulic steering damper prevent the lateral deflection of the top of the engine and its attendant twisting of the gearbox cradle to which the swing (ing) arm is attached ?
I would be very interested to hear an explanation.
Click to expand...

Do keep up..... you always keep the bike upright, you don't need to lean over to corner as the bike will oversteer for you as long as you don't have a drum brake :p
:p:cool:;)
 
I have a Les Emery/Norvil one. No clearance problem but recently fitted new rubbers from RGM. They are way too hard and introduced bad vibration at lower revs. I have heard people say to replace the rubbers with a spacer but I cut chunks out of my rubbers to reduce the strength and that has worked.
 
Nortoniggy said:
I have a Les Emery/Norvil one. No clearance problem but recently fitted new rubbers from RGM. They are way too hard and introduced bad vibration at lower revs. I have heard people say to replace the rubbers with a spacer but I cut chunks out of my rubbers to reduce the strength and that has worked.
Click to expand...
Is this with a steel Interstate tank ?
 
Nortoniggy said:
I have a Les Emery/Norvil one. No clearance problem but recently fitted new rubbers from RGM. They are way too hard and introduced bad vibration at lower revs. I have heard people say to replace the rubbers with a spacer but I cut chunks out of my rubbers to reduce the strength and that has worked.
Click to expand...
I remember having read on this forum someway in the past, that drilling holes in the rubber will help reduce vibration , in case you find the rubber too hard.
 
My only point of comparison is 72 Combat with a MK111 head steady, and a MK111 with a Dave Taylor. Both have good isolastics, but the MK111 is not as sharp handling and has more tingles through the pegs than the Combat.
 
I replaced the stock head steady on my ’74 Roadster with the Comstock version several years ago. Immediately after installing, and ever since, the vibration was worse (stronger vibration that continues to higher engine speed) than with the stock unit. This past year I installed a new front iso with vernier adjustment, thinking this may possibly make a difference and reduce vibration, which it did not. I’m thinking that since the Comnoz steady is significantly sturdier than the stocker, it wouldn’t be unexpected that vibration could be more significant than with a stock HS?

To be clear, I’m reporting the above not to complain, but rather to hopefully hear from others as to whether they may have experienced similar behavior and/or possibly have some words of wisdom that might smooth things out for me. Thank you.
 
WZ507 said:
I replaced the stock head steady on my ’74 Roadster with the Comstock version several years ago. Immediately after installing, and ever since, the vibration was worse (stronger vibration that continues to higher engine speed) than with the stock unit. This past year I installed a new front iso with vernier adjustment, thinking this may possibly make a difference and reduce vibration, which it did not. I’m thinking that since the Comnoz steady is significantly sturdier than the stocker, it wouldn’t be unexpected that vibration could be more significant than with a stock HS?

To be clear, I’m reporting the above not to complain, but rather to hopefully hear from others as to whether they may have experienced similar behavior and/or possibly have some words of wisdom that might smooth things out for me. Thank you.
Click to expand...
Try backing off the adjusters on the front & rear iso mounts a touch.
Check engine cradle fasteners for tightness also.
I have a Comstock H/S with adjustable iso mounts...I have minimal vibes below 3000 rpm and above is very smooth.
 
I have a mk3 head steady. I have very little vibration from just above 2,000rpm. I'm happy with the handling too (new Hagon rear shocks and 20Wt fork oil).

That's jinxed it...
 
WZ507 said:
I replaced the stock head steady on my ’74 Roadster with the Comstock version several years ago. Immediately after installing, and ever since, the vibration was worse (stronger vibration that continues to higher engine speed) than with the stock unit. This past year I installed a new front iso with vernier adjustment, thinking this may possibly make a difference and reduce vibration, which it did not. I’m thinking that since the Comnoz steady is significantly sturdier than the stocker, it wouldn’t be unexpected that vibration could be more significant than with a stock HS?

To be clear, I’m reporting the above not to complain, but rather to hopefully hear from others as to whether they may have experienced similar behavior and/or possibly have some words of wisdom that might smooth things out for me. Thank you.
Click to expand...
It sounds as if you may need to adjust the tie rod on the head steady so it's in a neutral position when you are sitting on the bike off the stand. From what I read only AN ISO rubbers are the correct shore rating (softeness) others, it seems are too hard.
 
KiwiShane said:
✅100%
Click to expand...
Shane,
I have the same setup as you and when I installed the Comstock head steady it fit perfectly so I just left it alone.Did you have to make any adjustments with yours? I will see if mine is in the neutral position with me on it.It’s such a nice piece and want to make sure I have it correct.
Thanks,Mike
 
YING said:
Shane,
I have the same setup as you and when I installed the Comstock head steady it fit perfectly so I just left it alone.Did you have to make any adjustments with yours? I will see if mine is in the neutral position with me on it.It’s such a nice piece and want to make sure I have it correct.
Thanks,Mike
Click to expand...
When I initially fitted it (which was like a glove).. I backed off to two top mounting fasteners and moved the connected alloy plate to where it sat basically in its middle/neutral position
(Bike off its stand under its own weight.) Hope that helps...
 
baz said:
I'm sure the one Ludwig made would sell if it were made in production
Click to expand...
I thought about that, ( not that I’m going to make them ..) but in order to allow for the small deviations between different bikes, it would have to be made adjustable, with elongated holes, different spacers, shims.. while ideally, the 2 parts should be tack welded in situ, to assure perfect alignment.
Not everyone has the tools, the time or the confidence to do that.
Most people just want to buy a finished product.
Apart from that, I do believe it is the best solution for a head steady.
Not that it performs better than the other types, but it is more compact, has no moving parts, and can be made for a fraction of the cost.

Which head steady is your favourite?

Which head steady is your favourite?

Also, IMO :
1. the clamp around the tube from the DD steady is poor engineering, Comstock's is way better.
2. The orientation of the MK 3 springs is not optimal to relieve the front iso.
they should be on an arc with the rear iso as the center. (= pointing backwards)

Which head steady is your favourite?
 
Last edited:
Back
Top