Where do I get a Tough frame paint for my Commando frame

I do not want to powder coat my Commando frame. I live in the states and want a good glossy black tough paint. Any suggestions as to what brand and where to get it---thanks

Rattle can or automotive refinish?

If refinish paint then a catalyzed acrylic enamel (two pack) is what I would recommend. Of course, I am partial to PPG Deltron Concept (they pay the bills), but BASF, House of Kolor, and DuPont have very good systems also. A clearcoat is optional with this product. A chemical respirator is required.

These paints are tough yet can be repaired if needed.

Mark- You might check out Plastikote Tractor & Implement paint. It is very tough,and has just about the right gloss factor to look correct on an English bike.I've used it on a couple of my projects,and it's holding up very well,after several years.It's available in rattle cans,or by the gallon. There are other brands of tractor paint that probably work just as well,but that is the one I am familiar with.

Cheers!
Bruce

Hey Mark-
I have to agree on the tractor paint. Been using Van Sickle tractor paint for some time on car, truck and motorcycle frames with good results. Comes in rattle cans, but I prefer to buy in quarts or gallons and add hardener before spraying. Just good old tough enamel, and waaaay less $$$ than the automotive refinish systems.

Mike
Kansas, America

Mark,

Why don't you like powder coating? I feel it produces a very durable and glossy finish that holds up well over the years.

I had my Guzzi frame powder coated. The first time I cleaned it with a degreaser called Jizer ( available in the UK) it took all the shine off it permanently.
I then had a matt black blotchy frame.
Go for paint.

A degreaser called "Jizer"???

There are all types of powder coatings, just like there are all types of paints. The resin systems in powder coatings can be polyester, epoxy, or combinations of the two. These systems can be designed to have a variety of properties.

Harley uses powder on frames and bodywork. This is not because of superior performance properties, but rather due to EPA air emission regulations.

As with paint, preparation is important. A poor powder application will be worse than a good paint application. Choosing the wrong type of powder or undercuring will result in a job that may have poor chemical resistance like Pommie John.

Because powder uses no primer to aid in adhesion, the powder must give superior adhesion to bare metal while still maintaining good gloss, hardness, toughness, and chemical resistance. That's a tall order. Usually the adhesion is not that good. That's why when you run a tap into the threaded hole to clean out the threads, you can create an opeing for oxidation to start. Also powder coaters should blast and clean the frame immediately prior to applicaton. If the frame stands after blasting for any length of time, rust will begin to occur and affect adhesion.

Powder does not have any inherent advantages over liquid paint.

These opinions are the result of 34 years of paint chemistry experience including several years involved in powder coating formulations. You are free to form your own opinions.

While on the subject of paint, what is the best paint to use on the cylinder?
Is a high heat paint necessary?
This will probably be from a rattle can as my automotive spray gun has seen better days.

I have used black Rustoleum on the barrels that lasted several years. However, mostly I use VHT Barrel Spray Paint SP-905 Gloss Black from Caswell Plating.

With the success of the Rustoleum I would have to say very high temperature paint is not necessary, but I am sure that some chemistries will not hold up to the abuse. (acrylic lacquer for example).

I also have used PJ1 Yamaha silver for both cases and barrels, but Fred Eaton at Old Britts is now warning against using this for barrels as it discolors with heat. My barrels are still fine after 5+ years, but there could have been a formula change. I would spray out a panel and stick it in an oven or on top of your gas grill hood for a while to test it first.

I am looking to paint and would like to know if you need to blank off the mounting holes as if you were powder coating? And also if anyone knows a good frame painter in the So. Ca area, Thanks guys and have a great day, Chuck.

I find myself becoming more concerned about frame finishes, it used to be that the more glossy and perfect the paint (or powder coat) the better, but now I'm not so sure?
I know that serious auto restorers are absolutely fanatical about the amount gloss on their frames and assorted chassis parts. The gloss (or lack thereof) often varies considerably from part to part, and if not correct they loose points when being judged.
Some of you must have experience showing bikes (or even judging them) at concourse type events? Does this amount of detail come into play at the bike shows you've attended or is it not a consideration concerning most motorcycle judges (yet)?
I'd appreciate any apinions!

Projectile said:

Does this amount of detail come into play at the bike shows you've attended or is it not a consideration concerning most motorcycle judges (yet)?

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Yes, that certainly has been known to happen in the UK, where this attention to detail at concours events has reached an almost fanatical level, for both exhibitors and judges, with some bikes being trailered in and shown, and then trailered home again, without them even being started up. Concours judges are very likely to deduct points from a machine if various items are *over-restored* = has the wrong finish such as parts polished/mirror polished that shouldn't be, or chromed, or having the wrong paint finish etc..

For a fairly decent job, check out VHT (black) Roll Bar Paint. Do your prep. Sand away and clean properly. This stuff is made to take some hits. You can buy it in either gloss or satin --most folks prefer a glossy frame, me thinks, but the satin effect is divine in my book. Might be the best product outside of an epoxy or powder coat.

Cheers,

wrench

Wrench,

Great idea. I did a little research and the VHT roll bar paint is an epoxy ester based paint. This should be a pretty tough system. I'll have to give it a try. I need to do some work on the BMW side hack frame, this might fill the bill. Thanks!

Ron L said:

Wrench,

Great idea. I did a little research and the VHT roll bar paint is an epoxy ester based paint. This should be a pretty tough system. I'll have to give it a try. I need to do some work on the BMW side hack frame, this might fill the bill. Thanks!

Click to expand...

Ron--

I've used the stuff 'here-and-there' on a few odds and ends, but will be applying it to my '74 Ducati frame within the next two weeks. If you get to your Beemer first, let me know how it works out, otherwise I'll report back. VHT seems to be a first rate line of products.

Let the winter projects begin!

wrench