What year/model? What am I missing?

74ok said:

75 norts came with 'vernier' quick adjust engine mount isolastics, particularly handy for rear adjustment, which prior to that, was a pia (lotsa xtra work) in comparison

especially if pulling the engine, or primary cover & internals, clutch stuff etc, something to look at, or anytime having to go there & adjust the rear.

a few other folks also came up with prior 75 vernier iso upgrade kits/options

Google Search

www.google.com

Click to expand...

Jeesh pricey -

Pistons are out.

Barrels are shot. I managed to track down a good set from a Norton dealer here in the US.

A few questions.

1. The crank has a few small chips. I would think they are small enough that a crank balancing would take care of it. What do you think?

2. This engine definitely sat for many years. Surface rust everywhere. Especially on the cam. Are there new cam options? It may polish up just fine.

3. I took the right hand cover off just to see what I was working with. All looks good except there are two empty bolt holes. Should something be there?

Lot's of rust/oxidation damage .
I would not use the cam , even polished up .
Speaking of polishing up , The con rods are a concern , weird lines all over .
The 2 holes question : no worries . You have bigger issues to set straight .
Enjoy .

Torontonian said:

As us Canucks ( over here across the pond ) , we use Eh to close or end a sentence or statement , not to start it .
An internet search shows my presumption of Great Britain using Kms. ( as we do , being the Dominion of Canada ) , to be incorrect . Distances are counted in miles it seems , other measurements use metric . Correct me if wrong , I've never been to England .

Click to expand...

In engineering SI units are mostly used but we can still work in Imperial units. Norton Commandos and earlier models were designed in Imperial units so that is what should be used with them. Our gallons are the real thing, unlike the sub-standard US gallon. One thing you must never do is use kilograms as a force.

Mart UK said:

How many miles should they typically go between adjustments?

Click to expand...

andover vid calls out ~ 20-30k miles

hybridracer said:

In engineering SI units are mostly used but we can still work in Imperial units. Norton Commandos and earlier models were designed in Imperial units so that is what should be used with them. Our gallons are the real thing, unlike the sub-standard US gallon. One thing you must never do is use kilograms as a force.

Click to expand...

Here in Canada , we got rid of the American system ( gallon etc . ) by legislation ( about 30 years or so back ) , to join the rest of the world with Metric . It didn't quite work out , the construction industry still uses feet and inches and metric , seeing as we are such close trading partners with the United States of America .

macvittiemotorcycles said:

Pistons are out.

Barrels are shot. I managed to track down a good set from a Norton dealer here in the US.

A few questions.

1. The crank has a few small chips. I would think they are small enough that a crank balancing would take care of it. What do you think?

2. This engine definitely sat for many years. Surface rust everywhere. Especially on the cam. Are there new cam options? It may polish up just fine.

3. I took the right hand cover off just to see what I was working with. All looks good except there are two empty bolt holes. Should something be there?

Click to expand...

3. Never knew what those holes are for myself, maybe a hold over from an older design? I do know that them being empty is normal.

NPeteN said:

3. Never knew what those holes are for myself, maybe a hold over from an older design? I do know that them being empty is normal.

Click to expand...

earlier used another chain with associated parts to run a magneto ignition, that then went to points/condensers at the end of the cam

74ok said:

earlier used another chain with associated parts to run a magneto ignition

Click to expand...

Early Commandos of course had a points housing behind the cylinders not a magneto.

The boss with the two holes was intended for the unused starter motor drive chain, not for a magneto or points housing.

macvittiemotorcycles said:

Pistons are out.

Barrels are shot. I managed to track down a good set from a Norton dealer here in the US.

A few questions.

1. The crank has a few small chips. I would think they are small enough that a crank balancing would take care of it. What do you think?

2. This engine definitely sat for many years. Surface rust everywhere. Especially on the cam. Are there new cam options? It may polish up just fine.

3. I took the right hand cover off just to see what I was working with. All looks good except there are two empty bolt holes. Should something be there?

Click to expand...

A bit of a soak in Evapo-rust for the Iron bits and a good Vaqua blast on the aluminium bits so your not polishing a turd anymore.
I would just use a file to smooth out that crank flywheel chip. Cam I think is toast... good for a core.
Keep on keepn on.

So many upgrades. So to consolidate the upgrades I will be doing:

Vernier isolates upgrade: RGM

Later style kickstand and center stand

Possibly later style swing arm. Are there swing arm isolastic upgrades?
Kegler clamps to swing arm tubes

Single piece rear axle

Full flow oil filter

Aftermarket head steady. Any recommendations or is the one on Andover ok?

rear brake safety clip

macvittiemotorcycles said:

Aftermarket head steady. Any recommendations or is the one on Andover ok?

Click to expand...

I have a Dave Taylor type and very pleased with it - I opted for the spring support as well .

Richard Tool said:

I have a Dave Taylor type and very pleased with it - I opted for the spring support as well .

https://www.accessnorton.com/attachments/vmotjr-webp.74198/

Click to expand...

Me too . Increases stability of the entire machine , stopping the sideways horizontal movements , but allowing the vertical movements you want . Eases up any side loads to the 2 tubular isolastics . A nice unit . Money well spent . Lube the 2 joints every time the tank is off .

macvittiemotorcycles said:

So many upgrades. So to consolidate the upgrades I will be doing:

Later style kickstand and center stand

Possibly later style swing arm. Are there swing arm isolastic upgrades?
Kegler clamps to swing arm tubes

Single piece rear axle

Full flow oil filter

Aftermarket head steady. Any recommendations or is the one on Andover ok?

Click to expand...

While the RGM vernier isolastics are less expensive, I don't use them because the rubber is too hard. I much prefer the AN version.

Lot of work, but the later center and side stands are a great idea. Be sure to make that choice with a bare frame and the correct cradle available.

If by later style swingarm you mean the MKIII version - not sure that's reasonable (or possible?) If you mean the pre-MKIII reinforced swingarm, that's good. There are (I think) four:
Original with through bolt.
Reinforced with though bolt
Reinforced without through bolt (may just be with MKIII type end caps, not sure)
MKIII
Whenever possible on pre-MKIII I used the reinforced swingarm with the through bolt.

The first three can have Kegler clamps. Not needed with the MKIII cradle/swingarm.

The swingarm and isolastics have nothing to do with each other.

The single piece rear axle is a nice upgrade especially if the current parts are ugly or need replacing.

The original flat head steady must be replaced. The boxed version is good enough for me. The boxed version with the springs is better still. Most think the after-market head steadies are an improvement. IMHO, for the riding most of us do that is nonsense (flamers, get over yourselves, it's MHO! ) If I were going to use an after-market head steady it would be the one from cNw as it used the mounting holes rather than a tube clamp.

macvittiemotorcycles said:

Possibly later style swing arm. Are there swing arm isolastic upgrades?

Click to expand...

Possibly later style swing arm? going with the the stock caliper 1 year only wheel combo?

i think you mean pre 75, common drum brake variant, yours being the earlier (no cush) wheel deal, but with the latest, considered stronger swingarm upgrade

an experienced owner with your swingarm said it was fine & especially if the bushings check out ok (no play), might as well go as is but with the kegler clamps

the swingarm mounts up to a cradle via pin & bush that had upgrades

check for play, then go from there

the cradle then bolts up to frame via (rear) iso mounts, the cradle also bolts up to back of the engine

some folks go needle/roller




--------------------

gd folks to checkout (has come up as) cnw (for a head steady suggestion)

From o0norton0o, "When I look at your pictures, it looks like you are missing your clutch diaphram mechanism as well as the outer case cover. You'll notice that many of the used outer case covers you see for sale on ebay have a mark on them where the bike fell over and the footrest bolt poked the outer cover.... Mine has a mark there for 40+ years. I don't let it bother me because I'm more of a mechanically correct guy than a pin perfect restoration type guy... But you should be aware that most of the used covers have that blemish and of course a new cover does not. (so don't pay a lot of money for a used cover if it has a blemish"

To lessen the chance of marking you cover with a tip over, there is a bit of a change you can do to the foot rest.
Take off the nut. pull the footrest peg. put a jam nut on the peg then screw it back in. Figure out how much you need to support the rubber, then tighten the jam nut up against the foot rest hanger. Come in with a hack saw blade to mark what is hanging out between the foot rest hanger and primary cover. Remove the peg, leaving the jam nut on it. Cut the excess off at where you marked it previously. File a chamfer on to the cut off end. Now turn the nut off. It will clean out any minor burrs. Nut back on. Peg on and nut tightened. This will give you at least a half inch more room between the foot rest hanger and the primary cover, in the event of another tip over.

I’m assuming there shouldn’t be 4 holes where the timing plate mounts. Correct? Looks like they drilled and taped holes right next to the original

possibly a way to get timing right WITHOUT taking rotor off the camshaft?